About varnish

[budgieman]

Re. my church pew restoration project.
The original finish is coming away easily in flakes.
As a novice i'm guessing varnish?
I have only ever used satin finish and think it may be time to try something else. Just looking for advice on finishes and whether it matters? Are there set reasons why I should use a particular finish on a particular project or is it a case of "whatever looks good"?
Cheers
Steve

[artme]

Personally I think the "whatever looks goo approach is fine, provide you use quality products.
I prefer a soft, lustrous finish, but that´s just me.
You night look at things like the Danish oil finishes - Rustins,or Wattyl.

[budgieman]

Thanks artme.
Suspected as much. Will investigate the Danish Oil finishes.
Would like to broaden my horizons and branch out from my known world.
I think my usual satin finish may get rested in favor of something new.
Cheers
Steve

[jerryc]

Steve,

I go along with the "whatever looks good" principle but as a novice I think you should know a few facts. Satin finishes have additives that obscure the grain. If you want a satin finish it is better to use gloss and rub it back.

I am a great believer in shellac, as are many others on this forum. It is easy to apply with a rubber, (I could go on but look back at some of the threads)

As for Danish Oil you are paying more for a mix than it would cost to make for yourself. Without going to far into the types of mix, Danish Oil is often diluted varnish.
A very good mix is one I use which is my one third mix-- that is one third varnish, one third turps and one third boiled linseed oil. The quantities do not have to be exact, near enough is good enough. This can be applied with a cloth, so that you get a rapid drying time if you apply multiple thin coats and there are no dust nibs to worry about.

I've skated ove the subject rather quickly because finishing has many facets and you will get many people offering conflicting advice. My advice is spend some time going through the finishing threads and then come back with specific questions.

Jerry

[budgieman]

Thanks Jerry. This is this exact reason I joined this forum.
i'm on a quest for knowledge at the moment and I have made the mistake once of thinking "that would be good" without proper research. Nothing worse than redoing something because you made a poor choice at the final step. Shellac sounds interesting and is a finish I had forgotten about. Definitely want to highlight the grain. From memory shellac finishes a little darker?
Cheers
Steve

[jerryc]

Steve,

There are several forms of shellac and the colour varies from dark to what is termed "blond" shellac. The form I use most is orange shellac which is the most common form. It is available in dry flake form and is best mixed with meth as required because once mixed it's keeping qualities, including it's water resistance begins to reduce. Orange shellac gives a beautiful warm appearance to wood.
Orange shellac finishes no darker than most varnishes and in fact some varnishes, spar varnish for example are sometimes quite dark.
I recommend using a rubber to apply shellac and the rubber can be stored in an airtight jar for use at any time. I have written on how to make a rubber and apply shellac and, because I'm not the greatest with computers cannot give you a look here signal. However I am willing to resubmit the info or send you a PM. One thing I constantly stress is where possible use a piece of scrap to practice on. In the case of your pew just try any finish you consider using on an area that is unlikely to be seen, such as the underside of the seat. It is better this way than to slap a finish on and have to take it all off again because it does not suit..

As I said earlier there are many finishes and many variations on applying them. The one third mix I also recommended is similar to one used by Sam Maloof and can be wiped on. Properly applied it gives excellent results. The one finish I personally dislike is a straight from the can polyurethane finish. It is produced for the weekend warrior who wants to slap a quick, reasonably self leveling coat on a piece. I'm not knocking polyurethane even though I don't like it, I'm saying that it needs thinning down and careful application.

Keep asking the questions because finishing is what most people judge your work by. Often the woodwork can be magnificent but a poor finish will blind people to that fact.

Jerry

[budgieman]

Hi Jerry,
Would like the info on making the rubber. You can PM me or whatever is easiest for you.
Will start my shellac investigations and let you know what I decide colourwise. The orange shellac sounds as though it would suit the overall look but the pew was covered with a padded vinyl seat so there are lots of small tack holes and I'm thinking darker would help hide the little blemishes without hiding the grain.
Cheers
Steve

[jerryc]

Steve,
Will try to get info to you hopefully today Bit busy.

Jerry

[budgieman]

Busy is no excuse when training apprentices. How am I supposed to learn if the teachers don't give me their full attention? Oh Well. Suppose I can wait. Still sanding anyway! Finish to come in the next week or so.
Thanks Toad
Cheers
Steve

[ciscokid]

Must agree with JerryC on this one. I've used the Sam Maloof blend and it is very nice for something that will get little wear like a jewelry box or that sort. For a bit more protection, shellac is your answer. It is a natural product of nature, compliments most timbers well, and is relatively easy to apply with a bit of practice. Orange shellac really brings out the beauty in lighter timbers like curly maple which makes it a favorite of mine.

[budgieman]

Thanks cisco.
This seems to be the general consensus.
The orange shellac will be tried - the pew is a lighter timber and it will get some use.
Will post photo of the finished product once I find out a little more on application techniques.
Cheers
Steve

[jerryc]

Steve,

Go to Finishing Forum and thread on 17th February 2008 "Shellac tell me all you know " will be of great help. There I give a set of thumbnails on folding a "rubber" One other point I will make is that you said you thought it better to darken the wood a little. Wood naturally darkens with age, but the other point is that many older finish formulas contain boiled linseed oil ( varnish being a case in point). BLO helps bring out the grain as well as darkening the wood. It can be applied and allowed to dry before using shellac if you want. Again I stress ALWAYS test a finish first.

Hope this will help

Jerry

[budgieman]

Thank you Jerry
Will heed your advice and test under the seat.
Off to view the thread now. I'll keep you posted.
Cheers
Steve