Spraying Pine

[garfield]

Hi all,
<O</O
Thinking of making my kids a study desk each and I want to use pine but don't want to stain them, I want to paint them white and mix and match a couple of colors. I was wondering how I can get the best results, i.e. what paint to use and lacquer and the procedure to spray it on.<O</O
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All tips appreciated.<O</O
Geoff

[Master Splinter]

Pine is really too soft for a paint finish, especially in a 'plus kids' situation.

I'd cheap out and make it from melamine faced chipboard with a timber edge finish (to replace the thin plastic edge strip that you can get on it - it's not what I'd call child resistant material)

Or make it from MDF if you are still keen on paint.

[garfield]

Pine is really too soft for a paint finish, especially in a 'plus kids' situation.

I'd cheap out and make it from melamine faced chipboard with a timber edge finish (to replace the thin plastic edge strip that you can get on it - it's not what I'd call child resistant material)

Or make it from MDF if you are still keen on paint.

Yep thought the same thing tonight as i was down the street looking at them. How would i get the best result on MDF? I'd like a glossy sort of Matt finish if that makes any sense . I'd imagine I'd have to give it quite a few coats of primer first hey?

[MurrayD99]

You can get a good finish on MDF. I have made computer furniture, bookcases, router table etc... Use premium MDF (it's only a few dollars more expensive than the basic grade and it is designed to take paint). Probably round the edges off with a router to make them less prone to damage. Spray on one oil-based undercoat, then 2 - 3 topcoats also enamel. Sand between coats at least to 120grit. I prefer Wattyl paints - they spray well. A gloss will come up like glass. Don't put on too much product at a time - more coats better.

[Chipman]

I agree with Murray... If you want to paint your furniture, MDF is the way to go. Just get a good build of undercoat and then sand it back well to get a good smooth surface (undercoat acts as a sealer and filler) If I am spraying. I use 240/360 wet and dry paper with water and a few drops of detergent (less dust!) If you get a good surface to put your top coats on then you will get a fantastic finish.

Oh and don't for get, new paint is soft....leave it a couple of weeks to harden up!

I have used it to make everything from fish tank cupboards to toddler furniture and it stands up to wear and tear very well (and you can always repaint it)

Also you can get rapid set enamels and lacquers.... Less problem with dust getting in your paint while it is drying

Cheers,

Chipman

[garfield]

Thanks very much Murry/Chipman.
<O
I'd like a sort of not glossy, glossy finish. I was looking at some beds and the like last night and I like the sort of not real glossy but it's a very cleanable sort of glossy matt finish. <O</O
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Where would I buy the premium MDF from? I'm in western <ST1<ST1Sydney</ST1</ST1. What's the thickest I could buy it in? I'm now considering making a Loft bed with the desk and a few drawers etc incorporated into it, thick MDF is ok structurally isn't?<O</O

Thanks
Geoff

[MurrayD99]

Geoff, maybe you want a satin finish then. As to structural integrity - it'll bow over an unsupported distance, of course. It somes in many thicknesses. I guess 16mm or 19mm would be what you'd consider - but not sure about that bed. Design would be the issue.... Maybe you'd need some 4 x 2s in there to support the matress....

[garfield]

Geoff, maybe you want a satin finish then. As to structural integrity - it'll bow over an unsupported distance, of course. It somes in many thicknesses. I guess 16mm or 19mm would be what you'd consider - but not sure about that bed. Design would be the issue.... Maybe you'd need some 4 x 2s in there to support the matress....

Thanks Mrray. without having drwn up an exact plan yet, I was thinking of say 18mm thick premium MDF for the bed ends with yeah say 4"x2" bed rails and timber slats. i think maybe 16mm premium MDF foe the drawers and desk for underneath...??

Also, you understand what I sort of mean with the finish I want... it's not real glossy but it's not dull either and has that nice feel to it that you could wipe dirty marks etc of quickly and easily with a damp cloth. is that classed as a satin finish?

[MurrayD99]

I think the options are Gloss, Satin and Matt. Check with Wattyl - they'll sort you out. Gloss is really shiny/reflective. Satin is still a good hard finish - just a bit less reflective. I think you are right re dimensions.

[Chipman]

Also, you understand what I sort of mean with the finish I want... it's not real glossy but it's not dull either and has that nice feel to it that you could wipe dirty marks etc of quickly and easily with a damp cloth. is that classed as a satin finish?[/quote]


Satin or semi gloss is what you are after by what you describe... the other thing I would suggest is that you make some trips to the furniture shop and see what the commercial beds are like.... it will help you work out your own design....a tape measure, pen and paper are good to take along with you or your phone camera?


Good luck with it

Chipman

[garfield]

So the process would be 3 coats of primer and then say two coats of the finishing paint with light sanding between the coats.

[MurrayD99]

I'm not sure about 3 coats of undercoat. I don't know that's necessary and I'd definitely check with the manufacturer. Might be some strange chemistry/bonding issues. Me - I'd do one coat of undercoat and build up the top coats - go 3 - 4 of them.

[Chipman]

I usually slowly build up a thick coat of undercoat if spraying or if brushing, two coats of undercoat. That way when I sand it back, you get a nice flat smooth surface to work with. I have seen others who just give a normal spray of undercoat and the imperfections in the surface show up in the top coats. Remember it is a lot easier to sand the undercoat than a top coat!. The better you have the surface at each stage, the easier it is to get a good final result.

Just my 2c worth!

Cheers,
Chipman

(I think I covered some of this in an earler thread of yours... anyway here is a picture of a little kids table sprayed with oil based undercoat and oil based enamel paint.)

[MurrayD99]

I usually slowly build up a thick coat of undercoat if spraying or if brushing, two coats of undercoat. That way when I sand it back, you get a nice flat smooth surface to work with.

I'm going to try that. I have an MDF unit for computer/printers etc about ready for finishing. My only concern was bonding if I sprayed on 2 coats of u/c. If it isn't a problem, I'll adopt your approach Chipman. Runs can be a b'std but.....

[Chipman]

I'm going to try that. I have an MDF unit for computer/printers etc about ready for finishing. My only concern was bonding if I sprayed on 2 coats of u/c. If it isn't a problem, I'll adopt your approach Chipman. Runs can be a b'std but.....

Don't worry about runs...spray a series of light coats and wait about half an hour between coats as it becomes dry enough to put the next coat on (Doesn't have to be touch dry...just so its tacky and the next coat won't run)

Should you get a run.... don't panic...just leave it a fews day to go hard and sand it out.


Good luck with it,

Chipman

here is a pic of a small one I made for my daughter... lots of open spaces to avoid over heating (was a problem with xboxes but this one got fixed under warranty)