Replacing a Grassed Area with Gravel?

[Fozzy]

Hi All,

I have a large grassed area at our house that has been overrun with weeds. I want to replace most of this area with some type of gravel, with small raised garden beds made with treated pine sleepers at various places within the area. I'm thinking of using granitic sand or some type of toppings (Lilydale or Tuscan).

I'm not sure what depth the gravel should be. Would I need to excavate the current area to a depth of say 100mm and then put the gravel/topping in. Also I'm not sure if I need to use a "whacker" to compact the gravel.

I'm interested to hear if anyone else here has done a similar thing.

[Vernonv]

We have a fair amount of granite type gravelled area's and in general I like them and they are easy to look after. There are a couple of points to keep in mind:

1. We still get some weeds/grass growing in it, but it doesn't take long to weed spray them a couple of times a year.

2. If you have a gravelled area near an entrance to the house, top the granite with small round pebbles (just a very thin layer), as this will decrease the amount grit that gets walked into the house - but you will still get some (especially if you have kids and/or a dog).

[Ashwood]

The thicker it is, and the less dirt trapped in the gravel/screenings/pebbles, the easier it will be to maintain. Cost & install work vs future work.

Ideally, a layer of weedmat (if you have soil below) and perhaps close to 3 inches of the gravel would be nice. Main thing is to block out as much sun as possible and minimize the amount of substrate/dirt where weeds can hold moisture.

[Bleedin Thumb]

Hi All,

I'm not sure what depth the gravel should be. Would I need to excavate the current area to a depth of say 100mm and then put the gravel/topping in. Also I'm not sure if I need to use a "whacker" to compact the gravel.

If you sub grade is clay you will need a layer of Geotextile - around 28 gsm to stop the gravel from "sinking" when the ground gets wet.

I would suggest a 100mm compacted thickness (recycle) road base first -its cheaper than your gravels with just a 25 - 50mm layer of gravel on top - compacted and stabilized with 4% cement - I'm talking the granite type gravel not road pebbles.

You will only have to excavate if you can't build up the depths I mentioned or if the area is not fairly level..I'd take off the grass first.

[Planned LScape]

I would use a toppings like tuscan, Lilydale etc rather than Granetic sand as it stays firmer through all seasons and gets less weeds. Less small matter runs off after rain too

[Sturdee]

If you are going to use Lilydale topping all you need to do is mow the grass real short and apply weedkiller (glysophate).

When all is dead just cover with Lilydale topping to a depth of say 65 mm and level with a rake. Rolling in is better but leaving it raked level is sufficient.

After a good soaking (rain of course ) it will become hard enough for that's how I've done it.

Excavation is only necessary if you need it for levelling to doorways etc.


Peter.

[Fozzy]

Thanks for all the replies,

I don't think there is much clay where we will be working. Most of the area is fill from the site cut when they cut and filled the house site. We also put on about 3 or 4 inches of garden mix soil when we originally planted the grass so the current level of the ground is about where we want the level of the gravel. Most of the area is covered in a real mongrel woody weed that I want to get rid of, so we would definately have to scrape it once it has been poisoned.

I like the idea of the 100mm road base followed by the 50mm topping.

I'm also thinking of having some garden beds to break up the big expanse of gravel. I was thinking of some boxes made of treated pine sleepers 1.2 x 1.2 metres that I can plant with some flaxes or something similar.

Sturdee, what do you mean by "rolling it in". I had heard someone else use that term but I wasn't sure what it meant. I thought that I would need to use a "whacker" to compact, what do you use to roll it?

[malb]

Staight Lilydale toppings are a mix of sand like fines and limestone aggregate to about 1/2 inch. It is as porous as, and will grow grass, weeds quite happily, particularly as a bit of dirt/dust settles onto it. Doesn't make a lot of difference what you place it on, any weeds etc within cooee will take to it like a duck to water.

Also washes out with moderate rain and spreads.

You can mix cement into it before laying to get a binding effect, but it is still not a good weed proof/weathertight material.

[rsser]

What is Tuscan topping btw?

[Fozzy]

What is Tuscan topping btw?

They are similar to Lilydale toppings (i.e mix of fines and aggregate) but they are a different colour. They are a more earthy colour.

[Bleedin Thumb]

Lilydale and Tuscan toppings aren't in Sydney AFAIK.

I really dislike crunchy gravels IE ones where they dont have the full range of particle sizes that facilitates good compaction.

Nothing worse than walking across crunchy gravel thats laid too thick...unless you want that effect as a burgler alarm.

[Sturdee]

Sturdee, what do you mean by "rolling it in". I had heard someone else use that term but I wasn't sure what it meant. I thought that I would need to use a "whacker" to compact, what do you use to roll it?

You can roll it in by using an old fashioned lawn roller.

Mine is made of thick plastic which is filled with 50 lt of water and after use is emptied into the garden so it's light to carry and store away. They can be bought from Bunnings and possibly hired from them.

You can also make one yourself by using an old drum filled with concrete with a bar through the middle to which you attach a pulling/pushing frame. Would only take an afternoon to make one.

Here is a link to what I did in my front garden. The lilydale topping has been down for about 20 years and is still to wash away so stabilising it with cement and laying a deep base of crushed rock is a waste of money. Might be needed for driveways but not for normal paths.

True there are some weeds that will grow in it if left unchecked, but spraying with weedkiller 3 times a year is a lot less work then mowing every 2 weeks.

Peter.

[rsser]

Peter, have you found that the toppings get trekked into the house at all?

[Sturdee]

Peter, have you found that the toppings get trekked into the house at all?

Generally no, except very small stone parts can get trapped in the large groves of boot soles and if it has been raining. But if it has been raining you would wipe your feet anyway on going inside so it's not really a problem.

Big advantages of lilydale topping is that rain water will soak in avoiding drainage problems, you can dig it up and relay it again, and it's easy to install for the DIYers.


Peter.

[Fozzy]

Thanks Guys,

Sturdee, your garden looks great. You've done a good job.