Professional sanding or sand & finish?

[brianm00]

I’m a newbie on this excellent forum but have read back through all the previous threads on timber flooring – can I ask for some advice on this:<O:p</O:p
I’ve just removed some of the carpets in our place and found some nice original timber flooring underneath (and in generally good condition). Place dates from the mid 20’s so it’s some kind of Australian hardwood; possibly blackbutt (but I’m no expert!). It now needs sanding and finishing to bring it back.<O:p</O:p
I wanted to put on a tung oil coating and finish it off with wax.
I’m not game enough to use a drum sander on the floor as I’ve never used one before and won’t take the risk of the harm I could do while I learn how to use one. I did have a crack at it with an orbital floor sander but to no avail (and yes I read the threads on this and you are right!!)<O:p</O:p
So my questions are:
1) Is it possible/advisable to hire a professional to do the sanding and finish it myself? I know there’s the problem that if the sanding gets stuffed up it isn’t apparent until after its been coated but is this a serious concern when dealing with people who do this for a living – I mean no matter what they’re bound to be able to do it far better than me ? <O:p</O:p
2) If it is possible to go this way what’s a reasonable going rate for sanding? The nails were already punched and filled from the last sanding job. The area to be done is about 50-60 SQM (Hall, dining room, living room). I am aware that professionals often re-punch the nails.<O:p</O:p
3) Finally can someone give me some recommendations for reputable floor sanders – I’m situated in Cremorne, Sydney or failing this what should I be asking to weed out the cowboys when I’m talking to contractors ?<O:p</O:p<O:p</O:p
Thx for any advice offered

[johnc]

In the last month we laid 35 square metres of hardwood 12mm overlay as part of a lounge, dining , entry update. Out of the entire job the only trade we had in was the floor sander bloke at a cost of $1100.00 (sand and coat), both the wife and I figured by the time we bought the finish and hired the gear it wasn't a lot more to get in someone that was unlikely to leave divots all over the place. I did the patio a few years ago with a drum sander and although the finished job was fine for outside I was not going to let myself loose on an inside job. I feel it was worth every penny for what its worth.

[OBBob]

I'm not sure about the oil and wax finish but with the standard poly's the finishing doesn't seem to take nearly as long as the sanding. The point being that you may be better off just getting someone to do the whole job. A good one should be a lot quicker, get the products cheaper and finish it better than you will be able to fist time around.

But if you want to do it for the enjoyment of bringing back it's former glory then why not have a crack! Hope it goes well.

[glock40sw]

G'day.
PM Larry McCully or Gaza.
They are in Sydney and should be able to give you some pointers.

[BobL]

I've done my own sanding and finishing, had just the sanding done, and had someone do the lot.

Getting someone to do the sanding doesn't always get the best sanding job because if it turns out below average they can blame whoever did the finishing for the problem. If they do the lot they are responsible for the lot.

Cheers

[Spelunx]

I would definately reccomend you get someone to do it for you. In my experience, the hire gear is absolute garbage, it is mostly old gear that a professional has worn out then flogged off cheap to a hire place. So you are behind the 8 ball from the start, because the tool is always important!

As stated previously, by the time you factor in hiring gear, etc, it isn't much more expensive to get some-one to do a A1 job for you.

If you are using tung-oil and wax, I would perhaps think about finishing yourself, this is not a difficult product to use, as long as you follow the instructions...