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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    12

    Default Necessary to do the square set join if using cornice?

    The title says it all: For my bathroom reno do I need to paper tape the join between walls and ceiling if I am covering it up with cornice? Is the joining still required for stability? thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    No just put up the cornice.
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    12

    Default

    thanks. that makes the job easier.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I've just help a mate with building an internal wall. All good until the cornice mitre cuts. Set you mitre box with guides for both internal and external cuts to ensure you get that perfect join. We ended up with a nice cut using a tenon saw.

    It took a couple of test runs on the old cornice until we got it right. For any that are not mitred nicely - nothing beats spakfilla.

    cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    882

    Default

    I use my drop saw. Or just freehand by eye.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    9

    Default

    But John...you're a builder and do it for a living. Some of this is perplexing for us novices.

    Good fun though learning, and I certainly get a sense of satisfaction from acomplishing the task.

    cheers
    Dave

    BTW, I've read a lot of your posts old mate and have learnt alot from them!! cheers

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    882

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DNL View Post
    BTW, I've read a lot of your posts old mate and have learnt alot from them!! cheers
    Thanks for that.
    It's not that hard to do a standard 90mm cove freehand.
    Mark the length on the bottom of the cove.
    Transfer the mark to the top with a square.
    Measure in 90mm, and put a mark.
    Hold the cornice in a position as if it were in a mitre box.
    With your eye behind the saw, line up your hand saw blade with the two marks, and cut.

    OK, It does need a reasonable sense of judgment, but there's always plenty of fresh bog left over when you're installing it, to fill up any gaps.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    0

    Default

    I've found it's easier to simply cut two lengths to size for opposite walls and fit them first, then simply cope both ends of the remaining sections to suit. This also avoids any problem with the ends slipping out of alignment, leaving "stepped corners" and, as has already been said, there's always plenty of bog.

    The only time I bother with mitres is "outside corners" (eg. around the top of a built-in robe) where there isn't any other choice...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    I guess everyone has there own method to put up cornice. From a tradies point of view there is no substitute for having well fitting mitres cut in a mitre box. Any mitres that require a heap of bog to fill up end up looking crappy if not done correctly.

    Cutting cornice is really very very simple if you just follow some basic principles. I'm not going to re-type them here the link is in my post above.

    Pawn head made a good comment above regarding free hand cutting (IF YOU MUST). Keeping the cornice held in place as it would be on the ceiling with the ceiling side sitting on the floor. The important thing is to keep the saw upright.

    Cheers
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

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