Danish jelly

[colh]

Greetings all

would anyone care to suggest why half a small can of Cabots Danish Oil would turn into Danish Jelly in the two weeks since I last used it? The can is less than a year old, and had the lid on as normal. Stored in the workshop under the house - ie relatively cool.

The can says clean up with mineral turps, but "do not thin" - I am presuming that means don't thin it out for normal use. Am I likely to be able to thin it back to a usable form with some turps?

cheers

Colin

[behindblueeyes]

I think this product may have a "shelf life" once oxygen gets into it and reacts with it.

Go to www.cabots.com.au for more info. It will also give you contact details for them.

Actually I would like to know myself why this has occured. Would appreciate feedback from you.

[JackoH]

I had the same problem with Rustins a couple of years ago. Due I was told to the low winter temperatures in my shed.
It can also occur if the product is not shaken thoroughly before each use, you end up with something of the consistency of toffee which will resist all attempts to get it out of the tin. I now keep it in a warmer environment during the colder months of the year. I was advised not to add anything to it in order to rejuvenate it unless I had a degree in chemistry, and on no account to try to dissolve it by heating it up as this would probably cause an explosion or fire due to the volatility of the product in it's liquid state.
I agree with the comments on Organoil, it isn't in the same league as Rustins both for finish and durability. (I hope I can say that without getting sued.! )

[Dan]

I think this can happen to any finishing oil once air gets into the tin. One way to slow it down is to decant what you think you might need into another container then reseal the original tin as soon as possible. Don't use directly from original tin and don't return any unused oil back into the tin after you have finished.

Dan

[schaf]

Hi Colh,

Your problem with Danish oil is common after the lid is removed and exposed to the air.
I think I have solved the problem by decanting the whole can into very small bottles as soon as the can is opened.I am talking about medicine or anchovie paste bottles.
The method is to fill till overflowing and then replace the lid ,wipe the bottle clean of overspill and then tape around the seal of the lid with tape.I use that plumbers tape that they put on the theard.
I have just cleaned a cupboard in my shed and found five of these little bottles.The contents of four are perfect and the fifth has turned to jelly,these bottles must be three years old.
To me, this is proff that you must expell all air from the container either by over filling or by causing a vaccum in the bottle if you can.
I hope this is some help.

Regards terry

[AlexS]

I had the same problem with Feast Watson oil and was advised by them that it was due to air getting to it. Their rep suggested puting a small amount of turps on top of it before puting the can away. This worked, but depending on how often and how much you use, it will eventually become thinner.

The bottles suggested above sounds like a better solution.

[ubeaut]

There is a product that can be sprayed into a can of oil or paint ets that will expellall the air even if there is only an inch of oil left inthe bottom of the can. I have no idea what it is called but David tulloch (formerly of The turnery) will be on the Stand at this weekends Working With Wood Show in Melb and he was the one who was selling it around the traps a few years ago. Maybe he can help with som info.

There is also the theory that you can also stop skinning and gelling by simply turning the can upside down after it has been resealed. This may be an old wives tale but my dad always used to do it and he had half used cans of oil paint that were 20 years old and still like new, without any skinning.

Cheers - Neil

PS Think you'll find that most of the oils have a reasonably heavy content of polyurethane or spar varnish in them and it is this that usually goes off after it has hit the air.

[Tankstand]

I haven't used it myself, nor do I know where to buy it
but I found this product while "surfing" the net.

http://www.bloxygen.com/

[ubeaut]

Well done Tankstand - THATS THE STUFF. It feels like you are buying an empty can. But it really is extra good gear.

Cheers - Neil

[colh]

I've had a reply from Cabots:

they acknowledge that Danish Oil is nkown to turn to gel when the can gets to about half full - apparently the amount of air in the can is enough to react with the ingredients in the Oil.

Suggestions are to decant into a smaller container, or to drop glass beads (marbles?) into the can to keep the oil level higher than half full.

Thing is, I don't recall seeing any sort of prominent warning on the can that this is necessary to avoid wasting half of it.

I don't have much experience with finishing oils - I bought Danish Oil because the turner I had lessons with used it. I presume there are other similar products - can anyone suggest one that doesn't turn to jelly?

Colin

[Eastie]

Feast Watsons fine buffing oil does the same. I tried a few things but it was definitely some form of chemical reaction.
Despite this it still seems to offer some ability to protect timber as I finished my latest workbench with it and it worked OK.

[journeyman Mick]

Haven't tried this as I haven't needed to but I would think that filling the can with other forms of inert gas that aren't as expensive as the bloxygen would work also. Of course it will work better if they are heavier than air so as to displace any air in the tin. For the serious homebrewers amongst you your beergas (CO2) should do the trick and those out there that MIG or TIG weld the inert shielding gases would work well also. Just watch out though as there are a few blends for welding sheetmetal that I believe have small amounts of oxygen in them.

Mick