Got a BP16A

[triden]

In a previous thread i was undecided about which Band Saw to by. I finally bit the bullet and got the HafCo BP16A. Great machine. After doing all the things others have done to tune the saw i can resaw to 1mm. BUT i cant square the table to the blade on both sides.
I can set the table square to the blade on the left side of the blade, but if i position the square to the right of the blade there is a gap of 0.75mm at the bottom of the square. Seems to me the table runs down to the blade removal slot from both sides. Is this normal? The only other thin i can think off is that maybe the bolts that hold the trunnion on to the table have warped it. Any ideas? As i said am very happy with the saw
Cheers
Denis

[woodbe]

What do you see if you put a straightedge over the table?

I have to admit that I have always assumed the table is flat...

woodbe.

[sundancewfs]

Tables are'nt always flat.... Most have some sort of dip, hump, bow etc. for the most part this is ok if its in the region of a couple to a few thousands of and inch over the size of the table. (slide a feeler guage under any gap detected with a straight edge to measure how much it is off) I would do as triden said and check it with a straight edge. Depending on the size of the square you are using, I would say .75mm is way too excessive. It might pay to talk to the supplier and ask then for a replacement under warranty (if it still is under warranty) I have also heard of suppliers having customers tables reground to take care of a factory stuff-up

[arose62]

I agree with checking across the table with a straightedge.

The dinky little plastic insert that the blade runs through isn't anywhere near accurate or precise, so your error may be there.

If it turns out that the table is not flat, I don't think you'll have any hassles with H&F swapping it for another one.

I had a horrid vibration in my BP16A, and they sent up a new tyre, new blades, new bearing - no hassle, no charge.

What part of the Central Coast are you?

Cheers,
Andrew

[silentC]

Are you sure your square is square?

[Alastair]

I found a similar issue with my H&F 14" saw. Culprit was the insert. Shimmed up with a circle of appropriate diameter fishing line, which solved the problem.

There was also some "burring" along the edges of the blade removal slot, which I had to lap flat.

regards

[triden]

Woodbe, Sundancewfs
With a straight edge across the table, at the blade i have point 330, point 711 at the front of the table where the slot is and point 279 at the rear of the table.
Silentc,
I used three different squares, none that are certified to be within a few tho but after further tweaking got the gap between square and blade at the bottom down to point 508 which is probably ok for most of the work i will be doing. if i ever want to cut dovetails i may have a problem.
Andrew,Alistair
The square i used is 6by8 with the 8 inch leg on the table so the plastic insert doesn't come into play(lower than the table). Andrew I'm at Charmhaven.
At the moment i just set the table to be square to the blade on the fence side which seems to work for resawing but what if i wanted to cross cut say a 6by8, would the cut be acceptable or am i being to anal?

[arose62]

Until/instead of replacing the table, you could always put your own known-good table on top of the cast iron one. A thick piece of, say, MDF would cost you some resaw capacity, but give you a flatter table.

Lots of bandsaw jigs operate on this principle.

Cheers,
Andrew

[triden]

Until/instead of replacing the table, you could always put your own known-good table on top of the cast iron one. A thick piece of, say, MDF would cost you some resaw capacity, but give you a flatter table.

Lots of bandsaw jigs operate on this principle.

Cheers,
Andrew

Thank's Andrew, good idea. Was watching the Woodsmith podcast and the demonstrator had one made up for resawing.
Cheers