help to cut and join benchtops

[Ms Handy]

not feeling so handy right now
want to replace waterdamaged kitchen benchtop. have 2nd hand laminated top in 2 pieces (about 33mm thick)

1. need to cut (where?)
2. and join (how?)
(then put in sink) ?

existing joins have recessed bolt things in them...i can't do that. What are alternatives? Doesn't have to be perfect, just serviceable and watertight.
any starters?...no rude comments!
kitchen is basic U shape, longer side being breakfast bar.

[OBBob]

Yeah you need special tools top do that sort of joing properly. You will find it may be quite hard to get a perfect straight cut that is 90 degrees and really sharp at the corner (no chipping etc.).

I guess you could cut it to size with a regular saw and then use a router running against a straight edge to finish the edge square and straight.

Then you you do some sort of dowling or biscuit joint and clamp together.

But then if you have a router you could make the 'recessed bolt things', which work a lot better because they clamp the joint together.

Or the easier option would be to take it to a cabinet maker who would do it very quikly and easily for a small fee I expect.

[Sybarite]

Joining of benchtops, as you have described, is mostly done these days using a "mason's mitre" which involves cutting a mitre join for about 50mm then straightening out towards then nearest back edge of the top.

Getting the two pieces to match can be a bit of a task, which is why benchtops come precut including the recesses for the benchtops connectors you mentioned.

My first suggestion would be to take your tops to your nearest friendly postformer (benchtop manufacturer) and ask them to cut the tops for you - if you are lucky you could get away with paying $50 dollars or so for a join...the mob I use are called "Benchworx" and have their factory in Yatala, which is possibly not that far away from you.

Alternatively, if you have enough material and a circular saw you could join the tops using a full mitre, that is 2 x 45 degree cuts from the corner of the room to the front of the tops.

Instead of benchtop connectors you could use some predrilled steel plates, such as those found in the Builders Hardware section of your local hardware supplier, to hold the two pieces in position.
Make sure you use plenty of silicon adhesive in the join so that no water damage can occur. This is one of the reasons that the benchtop connectors are so useful, as they pull the joins tightly together and squeeze a thin layer of sealant throughout the join.

As for cutting sink holes - trace out your sink shape on the top, then draw a parallel line inside this shape to correpond with the actual "drop in section" of the sink.
This step is very important.
Then use a drill to mark out the corners of your potential hole and use either a jig saw or cirular saw to join the holes together.

If you do this properly you sink will slot nicely in and fasten from below.
If you don't do this properly and cut a hole the same size as your sink out line (don't laugh, it happens too often) your sink will fall through the hole and you will be looking for ANOTHER second hand benchtop.

I hope this advice is of some use to you.

Cheers,

[MrFixIt]

not feeling so handy right now
want to replace waterdamaged kitchen benchtop. have 2nd hand laminated top in 2 pieces (about 33mm thick)

1. need to cut (where?)
2. and join (how?)
(then put in sink) ?

It's all relatively easy if you've done this or similar before, HOWEVER it certainly a DIFFICULT task without the correct tools and the ability to easily handle larger and generally heavier MDF/chipboard.

To achive something like what you want to do, you need at least a GOOD circular saw and a GOOD router. A table saw with a large "table" and a biscuit cutter would be of great assistance.

The final item you need is the special jig cabinet makers use to "cut" (or rather route) the 90º join of the counter top - this jig, a special pair of MATCHED templates costs about $2000 :eek:

Really, MY advice would be to do as OBBob suggested and have a cabinet maker do the major work. The cabinet maker should also be able to provide the joiners used to pull the pieces together.

When the pieces are pulled together you need to use a good sealing compound to make the joint waterproof. It needs to be waterproof NOT just to stop the water entering the cabinets below, but also to prevent water seeping into the chipboard and expanding/lifting the laminex.

Make sure when you pull the pieces together that you get a good bead of excess sealer pop out of the top of the join, you can wipe this off easily.

If it is posible to take the sink to the cabinet maker they should be able to create the cut out for the sink, though this is not the "normal" practice. Usually the sink is the last task to be done after the tops are correctly installed - this way you can be sure the sink is in the right place and does not interfer with any of the cabinetry below the tops.

You could do the sink cutout yourself as the opening does not have to be absolutely accurate as the rim of the sink usually covers the cutout made.

A jig saw make the job easier, but it can be done with a hand saw after drilling a few starter holes.

HTH

[silentC]

What does the front edge of the benchtop look like? Rounded or square? I have done a joint like this with a circular saw, a router and a chisel. It takes quite a while to do it but you only have one to do.

The main reason for using the mason's mitre is to give the effect of a mitre at the front edge, where there may be a chamfer or other profile and a straight butt joint wouldn't work. If the front edge of the bench is square, you don't need it.

What tools do you have access to? Router? Circular saw? Jigsaw? Hand tools only? You can do it with hand tools too if you have the patience.

[rayintheuk]

Cutting an accurate post-formed edge (roll top) joint is usually done with the aid of a jig and using a router, 1/2" bit and 30mm guide bush. If you want to know how it's done, look here.

For a one-off job, it's probably best to get a kitchen fitter to cut the joint. They will already have the kit, they'll have done loads already and they'll be quick. Over here, jigs cost from around £70 to around £120, BTW. Getting one joint cut, plus the six bolt pockets routed, is likely to cost between £30 and £45 in my experience. "When" is another matter altogether, as kitchen fitters tend to be busy! HTH

Ray.

[Gusman]

Cutting an accurate post-formed edge (roll top) joint is usually done with the aid of a jig and using a router, 1/2" bit and 30mm guide bush. If you want to know how it's done, look here.

For a one-off job, it's probably best to get a kitchen fitter to cut the joint. They will already have the kit, they'll have done loads already and they'll be quick. Over here, jigs cost from around £70 to around £120, BTW. Getting one joint cut, plus the six bolt pockets routed, is likely to cost between £30 and £45 in my experience. "When" is another matter altogether, as kitchen fitters tend to be busy! HTH

Ray.

Aye, what he said.....

Though you`d be lucky to get a kitchen fitter to do it for that price..

Can`t believe the jigs are so expensive in Oz, think I`ll take mine with me, as I`m emmigrating towards the end of the year.....

[rat52]

Gusman,
Welcome in advance