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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    2

    Default Replastering brick hard plastered walls

    Hi

    Wondering if anyone can advise the best process for replastering internal brick walls. We have a 100 odd year old Californian bungalow - all internal walls constructed from solid brick.

    The main living spaces are stucco render to a picture rail and then hard plaster above. Drummyiness in some areas of the stucco (and of no particular beauty), cracking in the corners etc and the need to replace skirts due gaps to floor means a replaster of all rooms.

    Can anyone advise whether it's worthwhile stripping the stucco and replastering with hard plaster and repairing cracks etc - or what to if we go down the gyprock path?

    Many thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Go for battens and gyprock

    It eliminates a lot of movement cracks later

    It does mean replacing the skirting and aves and cornice. Also the door and windows will need to be packed out.

    The alternative to this is to remove all the existing render and direct stick the gyprock.

    Either way gyprock is less messy.
    Don't force it, use a bigger hammer.

    Timber is what you use. Wood is what you burn.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Rat52 thanks - can channels be used rather than timber battens to reduce thickness or could this lead to more potential cracking over time then if we go the timber batten route?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    58
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Clean of the paint or what ever is on the bricks and use masonary adhesive to stick the plaster board directly to the bricks. Any Decent plastering supplier should stock it

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    Direct stick onto the brick is ok with cornice ahesive or masonary adhesive (not all stores stock masonary adhesive). You can chip away painted surface in the solid areas at 450mm centers and using blobs of adhesive about the size of 1/2 an orange. The sheet is simply pressed back against the adhesive using a straight edge. In the areas where the render is too lose or drummy, pull the lose render off and use a block of plaster stuck with cornice adhesive or masonary adhesive as a leveling block. Then a blob of cornice adhesive on that to stick the sheet. A whole wall can be levelled this way. Just stick the blocks on and gently press them back with a straight edge and level. Best method is to get the top and bottom blocks along the wall straight, then when set fill in the middle tapping the middle blocks back untill the straight edge is touching the top and bottom block.


    The most imortant tips here are:
    To have your mix reasonably stiff but still wet.
    To put the blobs on so they stick well out from the wall, so that they squash back and spread.
    To dampen dusty surfaces so the cornice adhesive will stick.

    16mm furring channel (part number 308) is the thinnest available these are fixed to the brick using a (part number 237) clip. The clip is fixed to the brick using spaggetti and a screw. The clips need to be leveled and packers used where needed. The channels then just clip into place.

    Can be a bit of a pain leveling the clips on bad walls, the plaster blocks are a better option here.

    Clips are usually placed at 1200mm centers. On a 2.7 high wall you can creep a bit from the top and bottom cutting out the need for 4 clips.

    Cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

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