Help! How fix basin to vanity cupboard?

[memoryman]

Hi, and TIA for any advice. I bought one of those (cheap) vanity units with a basin that sits on top of it. Have sorted most of the plumbing ... and got it into position after assembling, but the basin rocks a bit when its placed against the wall. Now I haven't finally plumbed it yet (and that will secure it a bit, but most of the connections will be those flexible ones).

So, here's the question: do these basins just sit on top of the cabinet, or are they meant to be fixed to it (or silasticed to death) to keep them from moving?

Or fixed to the wall . There are some holes in the ceramic basin that could be used ... but drilling through tiles and into old brickwork is not likely to allow any precision, and then the basin might not sit in the curved vanity properly ....

Help!! Advice from all you experts could help me finish my week-end project before Wednesday ...

[journeyman Mick]

Memoryman,
is there no brackets or heavy wire loops in the basin? If there's no mechanical fixings I'd be gluing the basin to the carcasse with a generous bead of polurethane sealant/adhesive (Bostik Matrix or Seal and Flex or almost any of the Sikaflex products) Once set, offer the cabinet up to the wall, with a bead of sealant between the basin and wall, packing if required to get it level. Use nylon anchors to fix both the basin and the cabinet to the wall.

Whereabouts in Roseville are you? I grew up in Lord street and went to Roseville Primary (Up boys, up and on). Happy simple times.

Mick

[memoryman]

Thx Mick, am actually in Roseville Chase .. down below Roseville Oval, across from the bridge (close enough to hear the traffic ... but behind the trees so no water-views ... . Know where Lord St is ... nearly bought near there 3 years ago ... good area.

Back to the question though : no there were no fittings, so I think you are right - I'll glue/bond it to the cabinet, pack under the front edge (won't need much, will use some wood shims) and then run a Silastic bead across the top). Still half-minded about screwing thru the back ... could put a couple of screws into rawl plugs in the tiles ... drilling into tiles I just use a bit to tape on the tiles to stop the bit wandering ... and use slow hammer ... does that sound right??? Should do it I suppose ...

Thx for your help. Cheers.

[floyd7]

drilling into tiles I just use a bit to tape on the tiles to stop the bit wandering ... and use slow hammer ... does that sound right??? Should do it I suppose ...

Thx for your help. Cheers.

Not a good idea to use the hammer setting on tiles. Will end up cracking the tile.

[memoryman]

Yep, Floyd, you are of course correct ... the masonry bit should bite in OK, cheers.

[journeyman Mick]

Once you've broken through the tile with the drill bit you can change the dill back to hammer mode. Seriously, fix the basin section to the wall with the largest anchors, or better still, dynabolts, which will easily fit through the precast holes in the back.

Mick

[memoryman]

Just for closure ... and so you don't worry at night ... I managed to solve it. Bunnings staff were well-intentioned, but no help ... and I decided to use a combination of Loxins and threaded ("Booker") rod (1/4 in) because I was drilling through ceramic tiles into old 1930s brickwork ... and seen this system used on-site for hung ceiling T-bar mounts many years ago.

Stayed away from the default of Dynabolts - they are difficult to tighten so they present a predictable amount of threaded shank once in place ... the Loxins and Booker rod allowed me to actually have a couple of goes at drilling them in deeper so they securely gripped (and had to downsize a bit size for the last inch or so in the soft bricks ). When tightening, use a clearance-drilled-through piece of timber to avoid scratching the tiles.

Then, cut a couple of lengths of rod with angle-grinder, brazed off the threads, and used wing-nuts over (big) mud-flap washers. Bought lock-nuts, but didn't use them in the end (the result was rock-solid, and more serviceable if it needs tightening). Was careful not to overtighten onto the ceramic basin (maybe some rubber washers/gland would be an improvement ) ... if it splits you're back where you started, and down a coupla hundred ... and another week-end.

My experience was that these cheap vanities have bugger all in terms of assembly instructions, and no installation guidance whatsoever. Unless you can solve these sorts of issues yourself, or in these forums ... its tough, and as advised by earlier posters, ther are serious safety/liability issues involved.

My final result is secure, and I didn't have to use a gallon of Silastic on it, (in fact none ...) so better aesthetically, and easier to keep clean (no black beading edges).

Good luck and thanks all ... if I can help anyone else ... please ask. Cheers.