Plastering to steel framework

[woodduck2004]

First of all

G'day to you all.

Scenario.

Have had a rumpus room built (free standing) at the back, we said to the contractor that will do the wiring and the plastering etc.

Well I have a mate that is a licence electrician coming to do the wiring, but I don't know any plasterers.

I am thinking on taking on this task with a few mates as they have done renovations themself with plastering on wood frames.

My questions are:
Is there any difference doing it on steel c chanel framework compared to wood?
What size sheets should you use with steel?

Also what type of >>>
screws used with steel?
Plastering Tools?
Plasterboard Accessories?
Adhesives and Sealants?
Jointing Tape?
Fasteners?
Sandpaper?

Should be used...

What would it cost for someone to come out and do it for me e.g.
full lining of interior with gyprock sheets,skirting,cornices,architraves & instullation to walls & ceiling? (ready for painting)

And Where would be the best place to buy all the stuff required?
Have ABN if that helps.

Details of room:
The room is a bit like a garage shed but with alot more purilns etc, built ready to apply gyprocking.

Room size is: 7.3m x 5.88m x 2.4m high approximately.
Can E-mail a Floor Plan if that helps.

Not sure how to attach to here, still learning. done (with the paper clip thingy)

Based in Adelaide.

Thanking you in advance
Cheers Macka

[Pulse]

G'day Macka, steel frames are pretty much the same as wood. I presume that the studs are steel instead of wood, rather than purlins and girts, like a shed.

Use bugle head screws, standard ones will fix into thin steel studs. If they are thicker you will need self drilling bugle head screws. Fix sheets horizontally and use adhesive. Download the gyprock fising manual from CSR website for details.

Sourcing the material is tricky. Just do up a list and ask them for a price. There are many different plasterboard makers such as Gyprock, Boral, LaFarge to name a few. Get everything delivered at the one time and the guys will stack the sheets where needed. Some places offer free loan of a sheet lifter which is a must for ceilings.


Cheers
Pulse

[woodduck2004]

Pictures hopefully added if I got it right.

Cheers so far
Macka

[Barry_White]

Like Pulse says the same as timber except you use Bugle Head screws. On the studs because I reckon it would be Hi Tensile steel you would need to use the drill point bugle head screws. On the the ceiling battens the "S" point screws should be OK.

Also as pulse says run your sheets across the ceiling battens and horizontal across the studs and like he says download the instructions from CSR.

Try this for suppliers.

http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=e...cr%3DcountryAU

[Rossluck]

We've done some here, and I think that the stud adhesive is a little different for metal. The self-drilling self-tappers are great to use. A plasterboard supply shop will help you with advice and supplies.

What they can't help you with, however, is finishing the joints. This takes practice, and by the time you have the experience, the signs of the learning journey are there for all to see forever. What you should try and do is to find a friendly plasterer who will come in and do the finishing for you after you hang it all.

This is also a hard thing to achieve, so if you fail in this, please learn as much as you can about finishing the joints and corners before you try it. Videos or DVD tutorials are good

All the best with it.

[woodduck2004]

Thanks Guy's
Much appreciated advice.

Will deffantly will be doing a bit more research in this field.
Like I said have mates that have done it & I have seen there work.
If it comes up like what theres did, I will be wrapped.
Some where better than others though.

With the finishing, ever the better of the mates will do it or I'll get someone in to do the flushing for me.

I would just like to know, how do you convince the Mrs that us guys can do it...instead of paying a packet.

Would any one have a rough idea on how much it would cost to fininsh this job off ready to paint?
By going of the measurements shown & floorplan in previous posts.
Just after a ball park figure.
Will be doing my own calcs as soon I workout where to buy from.

cheers all
Macka

[Pulse]

For plastering the costs are pretty much split into thirds:

materials = labour to hand sheets = labour to finish

This labour to finish might me a bit less for a large open space like yours.
It cost me $1700 to get 70 sheets finished including bulkhead ceilings and wardrobes. The plasterboard cost about $2000

Cheers
Pulse

[boban]

Very roughly,

If your room is 6x7 you will have about 110m2 of finished sheet but you will need to buy more. You should pay about $2700 to get the lot done. They will finish it in a matter of hours over two or three days.

Have a look at www.tradeconnect.com.au to get an idea about material prices. To their prices you will need to add on a delivery fee.

Avoid butt joints at all costs. This may not be possible where the room is longer than 6m but dont buy two sheets thinking they will be easier to handle.

[rod@plasterbrok]

About $700 for materials inc gst and a local delivery charge and $1200 tops for labour.

Stopping up and cornice only about $500 to $600.

Every one has covered everything you need to know about the screws etc. pretty well.

If you are going to do it yourself try our tips pages for info. http://www.plasterbrokers.com/mpbdiyt.html We don't go into specifics on metal framing. It is exactly how you would do a timber frame except you have to screw everything. All the same principles apply.

The standard stud adhesive will glue fine the metal frames, metal battens etc.

cheers

Rod

[rod@plasterbrok]

By the way labour and material for a standard size house is very near 50/50 with the ratio of hanging to stopping about 40/60.

When the job is smaller as this one is, the ratio of materials and labour changes due to the economy of scale in the job.

The same principle applies to renovations or other non standard projects that are more labour intensive.

Cheers