Backing for Glass Splashback

[vGolfer]

We're getting a new kitchen installed next week - glass splashback a couple of weeks later. The wall the glass splashback is going on is currently very irregular exposed bricks that have been painted. The surface is quite uneven.

The guy installing the kitchen (but not the splashback) suggested fixing some plasterboard to the brick so the glass can then be fixed to the plasterboard. I asked if it should be the plasterboard that is used in bathrooms etc and he said that plain old gyprock would be fine.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Does this sound like good advice?

[macca2]

We had a glass splashback installed in our new kitchen. The wall was exposed brick and the glass people asked for it to be plastered, giving a smooth surface for the glass to be attached to. They used a silicone of some sort. I guess gyprock would do the job.

[Honorary Bloke]

vGolfer,

Thin gyprock will do fine, as will 5mm smooth faced ply. You want to get a flat surface for the tiles to adhere to as well as, since the splashback is glass, any irregularities (that is, gaps) in the tile adhesive could show through and ruin the effect of the glass. A flat surface makes it easier to achieve full coverage of the tile back, thus eliminaitng those "gaps."

The gyprock can be affixed with waterproof construction adhesive, like Liquid Nails or similar. Leave the backing just short of the tile edge in height, which will serve to hide the backing and make the tile look better where it meets the wall. Then, later, use silicone caulk along the top edge to prevent water from getting behind the tiles.

Good luck.

[vGolfer]

Thanks for the advice.

We were told to use stud adhesive - I have used it in the past and it seems to stick pretty well.

[Bleedin Thumb]

vGolfer,

Thin gyprock will do fine, as will 5mm smooth faced ply. You want to get a flat surface for the tiles to adhere to as well as, since the splashback is glass, any irregularities (that is, gaps) in the tile adhesive could show through and ruin the effect of the glass. A flat surface makes it easier to achieve full coverage of the tile back, thus eliminaitng those "gaps."

The gyprock can be affixed with waterproof construction adhesive, like Liquid Nails or similar. Leave the backing just short of the tile edge in height, which will serve to hide the backing and make the tile look better where it meets the wall. Then, later, use silicone caulk along the top edge to prevent water from getting behind the tiles.

Good luck.

Hi Bob,
When we talk about glass splashbacks here we mean a full sheet of hardened glass that has been painted on the back, they're not glass tiles.
Is this the same system as over there?
If not there is one huge business opportunity for someone.

[Bleedin Thumb]

VGolfer,
The backing is not essential but it will make life easier for the installers.
I would go Gyprock but I would place some thin battens over the bricks first using your stud adhesive then glue ( and screw if possible) onto them. 3 things to remember.
1. Keep the gyprock parallel to your bench.
2. Dont encrouch too far out towards the bench.
3. Glass is very heavy so make it strong.

[vGolfer]

VGolfer,
The backing is not essential but it will make life easier for the installers.
I would go Gyprock but I would place some thin battens over the bricks first using your stud adhesive then glue ( and screw if possible) onto them.

The kitchen is small enough as it is and I didn't want to have to put battens - is this essential? If I use stud adhesive and screws, wouldn't that be enough?

[Bleedin Thumb]

Hi VGolfer, No not essential just easier to get a plumb surface.

If you want to get serious you could chase the lines where the battens will go with a wall chaser - you can hire them, but your brickwork may be fairly flat anyway....but if its that flat I wonder why you need to cover it?

Just gone an re-read your original post. If its as irregular as "rockfaced" or "splitface" brickwork and you dont want to put the battens in, then the very least I would do is don a face mask and get to the bricks with a grinder and take off the higher peaks.
As I said earlier you will have a hell of a weight hanging onto what you put up so you will want that stud adhesive to be in contact probably one good dollop every sq. foot.
Good luck with luck I'll have mine in by Christmas (thats this year)

[Honorary Bloke]

Hi Bob,
When we talk about glass splashbacks here we mean a full sheet of hardened glass that has been painted on the back, they're not glass tiles.
Is this the same system as over there?
If not there is one huge business opportunity for someone.

My bad, thanks Bleedin . That particular system is not used over here--hmmmm. Maybe there IS a business opportunity in this.

When glass is used here for a backsplah, it is individual glass tiles which are affixed as I indicated. I can picture what yours look like in my mind, but never seen one. Love to see a picture when yours is finished.

[Bleedin Thumb]

Hi Bob, I will post some pics when I get the splashback in but I wouldn't hold your breath as things take time in this house.
Here is a sample (not great)of what they can look like.

http://www.theglassguy.com.au/

[macca2]

Bob,
This is a pic of our glass splashback. The light green colour comes from painting white paint onto the back of plain glass which has a natural greenish tinge.
The range of colours is endless.
It is cut in one piece and sits on the benchtop and held to the wall with sylicone.
Quite expensive and the powerpoint cutouts are $70 each, but the finished product is worth it.

Macca

[jimc]

Just had glass splash backs fitted. One wall was all over the place...similar to a dodgey brick wall. The glaziers just packed out the depressions at random points and pushed the glass hard against the high spots with some silicon.
The points of attachment actually are around the perimeter of the glass...not the back. The glazier had mentioned he had even fitted a clear glass splashback to a red brick wall as the owners wanted the look of the brick without the cleaning headache. This was only held in by perimeter silicon.

Do not waste your precious bench top real estate by building out your wall.
Just my two bobs worth

[Old Codger]

I think if I was putting clear glass over brickwork then I would be worrying about dust and spiders appearing behind the glass.
A good way to fix the plaster sheet over rough brickwork is to use thick blobs os cornice adhesive and then press the plastersheet in with a straight edge. The cornice ad will go off even if its 20mm thick where as the stud adhesive would takes weeks to dry and achieve any strength.
We are doing a shower with the walls of black glass. The glass people asked for full backing so we lined it out with villaboard. The glass sits on a ss flashing 150mm high that looks a bit like skirting. The pieces of glass are 1400 by 2000 high.

[vGolfer]

I think if I was putting clear glass over brickwork then I would be worrying about dust and spiders appearing behind the glass.
A good way to fix the plaster sheet over rough brickwork is to use thick blobs os cornice adhesive and then press the plastersheet in with a straight edge. The cornice ad will go off even if its 20mm thick where as the stud adhesive would takes weeks to dry and achieve any strength.
We are doing a shower with the walls of black glass. The glass people asked for full backing so we lined it out with villaboard. The glass sits on a ss flashing 150mm high that looks a bit like skirting. The pieces of glass are 1400 by 2000 high.

So you think we'd be better off with cornice cement than stud adhesive?

[johnc]

I'm with Jim on this one, I wouldn't pack it out as I reckon the top edge will just look overly thick and second rate. Surely you could use a render and just fill the hollows, unless the glass is clear why worry about gyprock backing. A decent job would see the back of the glass flush with the brickwork not bogged out 12mm with all the visual appeal of dogs balls.

John