Wood V Fibro Cladding

[Purse]

I'm insterested in the opinions on cladding. Ive looked into Fibro fairly well and the cost works out at about $4 lm and then paint.

I havnt been able to find much on wood cladding, and if anyone can recommend a supplier for the Canberra region, that would be great.

Any information about cladding would be well recieved
Cheers
Purse

[silentC]

Depends on where you are building in Canberra. It is largely because of the fires that you had up there a couple of years ago that I have a house built largely from bricks, steel and fibro weatherboards instead of timber. If you are in a bushfire area, then timber cladding is not an option.

[Doughboy]

Yeah I agree with Mr C wood is really a if you must option. Where are you getting you fibro from? I recently purchased 20 sheets of 1200 x 2700 csr fibro equivalent for $18.05 a sheet.

Fibro is easier to put up and takes paint just as easily as wood. That together with the fire retarding qualities make the choice easy for me.

Pete

[Purse]

Yeah I agree with Mr C wood is really a if you must option. Where are you getting you fibro from? I recently purchased 20 sheets of 1200 x 2700 csr fibro equivalent for $18.05 a sheet.

The Fibro i am looking at is HardiPlank weather boards.. They start at about $16 for a 4.2mm length. Ive attach a pic of the particular one.

Cheers
Joel

[woodsprite]

I would go with fibro as well. Our house had the original nasty stuff on it - still has in parts. Where we have added on - twice, we have been able to reclad in the safe version, and I love it! We used sheets as that was what the original cladding was. Quick and easy to put up - paint sticks to it like you wouldn't believe - sealer/undercoat then two top coats - and it is easy to keep clean/ Probably need decent insulation behind it but - especially in Canberra - hot summer cold winter. We used the builders foil sisalation stuff plus R3.5 pink bats behind it. No probs - stays cool in summer and keeps a good degree of heat in in winter. The 3.5's were overkill for these parts - but I got it at the same price so thought why not. There are great insulation guides fro Australia on the web - a few Govt. departmetns have them - so you can see what is needed for the ACT.

Go with fibro, for the previous reasons as well - burns real slow and is really durable and I doubt you will EVER need to repaint it once done properly.
Jeff

[Bleedin Thumb]

Dear me I cant let it be unanimous.
Go Timber!!
Hardiplank ( which I have) looks like well.......... hardiplank.
Timber looks.........stylish, sophisticated, chick and well uber...

[silentC]

Yes but timber burns and if you are building in a bush fire zone, as parts of Canberra no doubt are, you're not allowed to use it. Hence my question...

Let me reiterate - after those fires in Canberra, the NSW RFS were given the power to dictate building requirements in designated bush fire areas. Local councils have drawn up maps with shaded areas and if you are building in one of those, you have to get a bush fire report done to determine what level of construction you must comply with. I'm pretty sure even the lowest one says you can't use timber cladding. But if you are building in the middle of town, then it doesn't apply. I'm pretty sure a similar rule would have been introduced in the ACT. I'll be bloody annoyed if not.

[Barry_White]

Why not use Lysaghts Easyclad 4P Colorbond Steel cladding. No painting and if you want to change the colour later on Colorbond makes an excellent base to paint over but why would you.

Anyway most people move about every 10 to 15 years.

Approximate cost would be around $27.00 for a 4.2 metre length. They will cut to length so you would eliminate wastage. As well as that it will give you a cover of 300mm for that price and you don't lose anything from overlap. Will also meet fire regulations.

http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/go/...saght-easyclad

[Bleedin Thumb]

Yeh I understand Silent, I hope that where Purse lives allowes timber then because........................


Canberra is UGLY ENOUGH as it is
and doesnt need any help from Mr Hardie.

Ps I used to live in Canberra so I have earned the right to criticize.

[Pulse]

Weathertex clad vertically.. looks trendy.....

Mate has a beach house clad with it and its come up pretty nice..

Cheers Pulse

[Bleedin Thumb]

Why not use Lysaghts Easyclad 4P Colorbond Steel cladding.

NO NO Barry NO,
In a previous life I once sold Vinyl cladding grrrrrrrrr too close, way too close.

[silentC]

Weathertex clad vertically

Can't use that in a bush fire zone either

[Old Codger]

hardies have a new product called 'Linea"
Its a 16mm thick flat faced product with a square edge. Looks pretty good when erected. And better fire rating. The sheets are heavy and need a different system to erect than std weatherboards.

[heidiho1971]

Hi I have just read your post, we have just finished putting up hardwood weather boards on our shed, we sealed them with linseed oil and turps on the front and back.
We have a lucas Mill and are able to cut them. Have a look at the timber site on this forum and have a look at stringy bark hardwood weather boards there is a photo.
[email protected]

[silentC]

hardies have a new product called 'Linea"
Its a 16mm thick flat faced product with a square edge. Looks pretty good when erected. And better fire rating. The sheets are heavy and need a different system to erect than std weatherboards.

We looked into Linea. It's about 25% more expensive than the standard stuff but it does look good. You hang them identically to standard timber weatherboards. They can be secret nailed unless they are doubling as bracing (something I'd never thought of doing), in which case they have to be through nailed. You don't need anything more than a hammer and some appropriate nails.

We used Hardies Primeline Newport, which gives a similar look in a standard 6mm board. They do have a different system of hanging. There's a PVC spline in a groove on the back of each board which sits over the top of the board below. It helps space the boards and locks the bottom of the board into the top of the one below, so again no through nailing required.