Timber Joists to Steel PFC

[brucewil]

I have been looking at various ways to fix timber joists to steel PFC Bearers.

I have seen details where a 90x45 plate is bolted along the length of the PFC and the joists skew nailed to this.

And others where the joist sits on the PFC and is tied down with straps.

any recomendations as to the best (easiest) way to go.
cheers
bruce

[Tools]

cleats welded to the PFC,and bolt the joists to the cleats.

Tools

[brucewil]

thanks tools, another option to think about.
I would have to learn to weld though

[pharmaboy2]

I have been looking at various ways to fix timber joists to steel PFC Bearers.

I have seen details where a 90x45 plate is bolted along the length of the PFC and the joists skew nailed to this.

And others where the joist sits on the PFC and is tied down with straps.

any recomendations as to the best (easiest) way to go.
cheers
bruce

plate attached to the PFC is the only way I've seen it done, usually with fullers and a ramset charge or 3. You coud try a roofing screw as connection - might have a chance through 5mm mild steel (note, I said chance ) seriously though, have ago with a roof tek by pre drilling with say a 1/8 bit, bang a screw in, reverse it, then attach timber plate - drilling a 8mm hole repeatedly in a beam is a recipe for frustration with a hand held drill! Strapping might be more appropriate where the skew nailing is inadequate at a guess - ie high wind sites.

[brucewil]

the skew nailing is ok, nominal tie down required
how about a piece of hardwood bolted to the face of the pfc, similar to the connection that will be made between the existing house bearers and the new PFCs that will be used to support the large spans.
then I can just skew nail to that.
it would also give me a timer look from the front of the house because it would hide the steel.

[pharmaboy2]

yeh. no reason why you cant connect to the front of the PFC, but youd need more bolts because they are now load bearing - unless you bolt flush or mm below the top of the PFC, so joists sit on bothe the plate attached to the side and also the top of the PFC.

no liability - not your engineer remember tie down is one thing, but weight bearing is a whole new ball game

[Ivan in Oz]

G'day People,

I'm going to regret this.................
What is PFC?
Plain Freaking Crazy (polite form)
Parallel Flange Channel
Peak Friction Coefficient
Pleated Foil Cover

I give up:confused:

I'd go for the Welded Steel Plate with predrilled holes.

[Tools]

It means parallel flange channel....a c-section.

Tools

[Barry_White]

I would use what is called Handy "C" cleats that are made by Lysaghts. And fix them to the steel PFC's with 12# x 24TPI x 20mm long Buildex Teks and bolt or Coach Screw the timber to the Handy "C" cleat.

If the PFC's are thicker than 6mm I would use Buildex Series 500 Teks to fix them to the PFC's

I have attached a pic of a Handy "C" cleat so you know what you are looking at. Take the picture along to your local Bunnings they should be able to get them or go to Lysaghts at Archerfield in Brisbane.

[Tommy]

Sometimes there called tiger teks.They have a long cutting tip on them and will screw to thicker metal..

[Barry_White]

Sometimes there called tiger teks.They have a long cutting tip on them and will screw to thicker metal..

I've been around the Steel and roofing game for longer than I care to remember and I've never heard them called Tiger Teks. Must be a local name for them if you mean the Series 500 Teks that will drill up to 12mm Steel. Also you don't have to predrill the steel to put them in. They cut like there going through butter.

[Tommy]

Yeah that the ones .I beleive that powers refer to them with that name ..It could be something to do with the tails on them...

[Ivan in Oz]

G'Day Bazza,
WOW!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:
The convenience of Practical, on-the-Job Knowledge
I'm roofing a small Patio at the rear of the House 3.6 x 3.9
Magic sitting out there on mornings like this; Better when it has a Roof
Cuppa,
Morning Paper
Feet up,
and what is left of the Native Birdlife to sing to me, Magpies included.

For Brackets and Fixings and the like, I trundle off into work and attack the Waste Steel bin:eek:
Cut,
Drill,
Beadblast
then a coat or two of Paint.
The Brackets ALWAYS ends up VERY over-engineered;
A couple of mm thicker than need-be, [ Hmmm??? 10mm instead of 8mm, when 6mm could havd done anyway]
and wider and/or longer than I really require.