Pitching Existing Pergola

[Damon_11]

Hi All,

Have run out of project inside the house, so now onto the outside areas.

I have a pergola in CCA and the wood is all painted and good - planning to resuse as much as I can. Old Alsynite on top radiates heat bad, so want to replace that with Colourbond and Laserlite and pitch the beams for a nice effect.

Current measurements house to existing support bearer 3000mm, joists overhang beam by 800mm, length 9000m, height 2400mm

I'm trying to work out my materials, so need some guidance on

- Is there a reccomended pitch for the roof?

- What sort of bracing will I require for the joists in some sort of A frame and how far spaced across the 9000 length? Currently they are at 800 intervals

- If I do pitch, how will I attach the house side joists to the house. Are the steel plates strong enough? Currently the joists are half jointed into a piece under the gutter line

- Are there any easy to use computer aided design programs that I can do the plan on?

Last question for now, Where in Perth region can I purchase descent quality treated pine for the job (please don't say bunnings - they are a rip off).

Thanks DC

[woodsprite]

Half yer luck! run our of inside jobs!! Can't help much with some of your questions. Right now looking at an installation sheet for Ampelite Solarsafe - good quality solar reflecting type plastic sheeting stuff.

Minimum fall is 5 degrees - this is important, don't go under 5 degrees. eg. a 3.6 metre sheet needs 300 mm fall. Overhang at eaves not to exceed 100 mm. Rafter spacing 900mm maximum. These sheets are 850 overall width but when lapped 1.5 corrugations give an effective cover of 760 mm..

I have been fiddling with the free - and very powerful - Google SketchUp which I saw in another post a littel while back. This is a powerful program and IMH is worth spending an evening playing with to get the hang of using it and exploring the many tools it offers.

Sorry I can;t help more witht eh structural stuff - early morning coffee yet to hit the brain
Keep us posted (so to speak)
Jeff

[Old Codger]

Sorry I cant help anybody that supports the eagles

[Barry_White]

Hi Damon

I design and quote on Spanline pergolas over here in the eastern states which aren't available in the (disadvantaged) west. These are all out of steel but the principle will be the same

Hi All,

Have run out of project inside the house, so now onto the outside areas.

I have a pergola in CCA and the wood is all painted and good - planning to resuse as much as I can. Old Alsynite on top radiates heat bad, so want to replace that with Colourbond and Laserlite and pitch the beams for a nice effect. "

I wouldn't use any Laserlite as the heat transferance is actully greater than Alsynite

"Current measurements house to existing support bearer 3000mm, joists overhang beam by 800mm, length 9000m, height 2400mm

I'm trying to work out my materials, so need some guidance on

- Is there a reccomended pitch for the roof?"

We usually use a 22 degree roof pitch.[/quote]

- What sort of bracing will I require for the joists in some sort of A frame and how far spaced across the 9000 length? Currently they are at 800 intervals

- If I do pitch, how will I attach the house side joists to the house. Are the steel plates strong enough? Currently the joists are half jointed into a piece under the gutter line

- Are there any easy to use computer aided design programs that I can do the plan on?

Last question for now, Where in Perth region can I purchase descent quality treated pine for the job (please don't say bunnings - they are a rip off).

Thanks DC

If you can post a picture I can try and come up with a design for you and some recommended materials.

Google is your friend for treated pine suppliers in Perth.

http://www.google.com.au/search?sour...uppliers+Perth

[thebuildingins]

There are no requirements for a roof pitch for a verandah, however you must consider overflow requirements for the gutters, so make sure you either have slotted gutters or a nice garden to run the storm water into. <O</O
<O</O

Bracing is a difficult one. Just give the old girl a shake and tell the inspector that “she’ll be right mate” and usually she’s right as rain.
<O</O
<O</O
Use saddle brackets to attach the rafters to the dwelling but ensure the appropriate nailing is used. It may be wise to corned screw the dutch rafter or corner bracket the side beam.<O</O
<O</O

Commonly, I’ll see side-beam conversions using triple-grips and wrought iron cross brassing to prevent wind up-lift. It may be useful to excavate your footings beyond the pressure valve to avoid horizontal wind forces and texas bar reinforcement. <O</O
<O</O

Not sure on the timber-yard cobba, I’m not from around your area so cant help you out. Try timber Association of Australia.<O</O
<O</O

Check ya later lads!<O</O
<O</O

Peace out!<O</O

[Barry_White]

This is a post I made in a previous thread about the Solar Gain of various types of sheeting that may be helpful to you in making a decision on wether to use clear sheeting or not.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&postcount=10

Below is a pic of the sort of thing we do here. I gather this is the sort of effect you are trying to get.

[Damon_11]

Sorry I cant help anybody that supports the eagles

Yes you old Codger and how did your tassie team go?

Anyhow, thanks for the tips everyone, BW, I'll work up some snaps during my next daylight interval and send something through.

Interesting about Laserlite as it's sold in the tonnage over here. I also had a better price on Suntuf http://www.suntuf.com.au/frames.htm How does this rate with you.

Thanks all...DC

[Damon_11]

This is a post I made in a previous thread about the Solar Gain of various types of sheeting that may be helpful to you in making a decision on wether to use clear sheeting or not.

OK, so I have read into this and can I clarify.

I am planning on using Colourbond Corrugated Profile in Classic Creme. If I have if double coated (both sides) then the heat passthrough is less than single sided????

with a 22deg pitch (matching my roof line) my trusty Internet triangle calculator makes a 1600mm sheet length for one side of the pitch and 680 fall.

So I do not block out all light, I was going to reduce the Colourbond sheet to 1000mm and add 600mm of alysinite / suntuf / laserlite in creme on both sides of the ridge cap to let some light through, otherwise I'd have a dark inside of the house already suffering from this ailment.

What's the thoughts on this notion??

DC

[Barry_White]

Yes you old Codger and how did your tassie team go?

Anyhow, thanks for the tips everyone, BW, I'll work up some snaps during my next daylight interval and send something through.

Interesting about Laserlite as it's sold in the tonnage over here. I also had a better price on Suntuf http://www.suntuf.com.au/frames.htm How does this rate with you.

Thanks all...DC

Hi Damon

Suntuf was just the original polycarbonate that came out of Israel. I supplied $30,000 worth of it to go on the stables on Kerry Packers at Ellerston Station in the Hunter Valley along with 80 tonnes of Custom Orb for all the residences and stables when I was with Lysaghts.

If you have a look at that Solar Gain Table you will see that Polycarbonate has one of the highest solar gains of all.

[Barry_White]

OK, so I have read into this and can I clarify.

I am planning on using Colourbond Corrugated Profile in Classic Creme. If I have if double coated (both sides) then the heat passthrough is less than single sided????

with a 22deg pitch (matching my roof line) my trusty Internet triangle calculator makes a 1600mm sheet length for one side of the pitch and 680 fall.

So I do not block out all light, I was going to reduce the Colourbond sheet to 1000mm and add 600mm of alysinite / suntuf / laserlite in creme on both sides of the ridge cap to let some light through, otherwise I'd have a dark inside of the house already suffering from this ailment.


What's the thoughts on this notion??

DC

I would be more inclined to put a Solar Tube brand solar light into the rooms you require the light in.

I would be more inclined also to use Lysaghts Flatdek profile for your roofing because it has a Highgloss finish on the underside that will reflect more light.

The other reason for using Flatdek is that it will span the 1600mm without internal supports whereas the custom orb will require an internal support.

If you are dead set on putting some polycarbonate in at least it will only be narrow strips the same width as the Flatdek sheet.

http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/go/...ysaght-flatdek

When you post the pic I will have a look for you.