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Thread: pore filler?
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14th August 2006, 10:03 PM #1
pore filler?
Hi,
Can anyone recommend how to get a perfect finish for Jarrah table tops.
I have made a couple of coffee tables before where I have used shellac then ubeauts wax or EEE. However under direct light u can still see what looks like grain streaks. Now I had sanded these tops to something like 1500 grit.
Is there a pore filler or some other techique I need to use to get a mirror like finish?
cheers
Redback
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14th August 2006, 10:04 PM #2
G'day Redback,
As opposed to a rich filler?
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17th August 2006, 09:07 AM #3
Try mixing rotten stone with oil, making a paste and rub into the jarah like a filler. Pummice also works.
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17th August 2006, 10:17 AM #4
Timbermate put on weak and sanded off will do as good a job as anything. You can get it in colours and you can mix them to get a match.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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17th August 2006, 02:49 PM #5
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19th August 2006, 11:22 PM #6
I've been a little disapointed with the water bassed paste fillers of late.... I'm probably expecting more of a filler these days.
If you realy want a fully choked and flat surface on open grained material I've found you have to have several goes as they don't have any sealing or penetration and a lot comes out of the grain with the sanding.
I'm looking for something better.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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19th August 2006, 11:27 PM #7I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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20th August 2006, 10:05 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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AlexS is on the mark, Wattyl (as do others) make wood filler for open grain timber, it comes in several colours the idea is to use a filler the collour of the dark grain which is usually the inside of the wood cell.
It comes as a paste and using hessian is the old tradesman way of doing it,
Wipe it off across the grain as this help stop it being wiped out of the grain holes as they are usually longer than wide.
Wattyl produce a booklet which gives all the directions etc for their products.
Usually you bleach (if needed) then stain then fill then finish with a sealer and clear. You can use lacquer polyurethane or enamel clear just use the appropriate stains,fillers etc for each finish.
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23rd August 2006, 11:14 AM #9
Struth, Durwood, I haven't heard of the old filler and hessian way for ages. Once had to do a job with 15 doors all to be filled and then the flat window surfaces. Took ages
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