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  1. #1
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    Default Developing Finishing Technique

    Gidday

    As with most large projects they often lead to developing new interests and side projects. I've recently been building my first real workbench and am discovering none of the 'Arts' in the Woodies realm are perhaps darker than the archaine and often frustrating voyage of developing your own set of finishing techniques.

    Indeed it appears that most of us find a finish we like that works and stick to it. Seldom game to develop new skills and discover the limitations of various other approaches to finishing & technique.

    Lets face it unless you approach finishing as a labor of love it often can be a slow laborious process thats easily dropped before efforts and investments in a given project are truely realised.

    The wouldbe finisher needs to come to grips with a number of choices and consideraions to orchestrate an admirable finish. For example is the stock open or closed grain; preparing timber to get the most out of the chosen finish. Desired sheen and lusture

    ...............the list goes on & for the finishing novice can soon become frustrating & confusing often leading to that dreaded can of poly and the el cheapo brush:eek: a quick fire cheap n nasty solution bound to stiffle the wouldbe finishers enthusiasm.

    So what I thought would be a great idea for forum members would be to create a primer for all the new finishers out there (including me) and share some tips and tricks in regards to developing a sound finishing technique!

    Whats the best advise you would give in regards to finishing?
    and whats your favourate Finish?

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou
    ...........Whats the best advise you would give in regards to finishing?
    and whats your favourate Finish?...............
    Learn how to spray.
    Pre cat lacquer.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    and how to prepare the wood before you spray it
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #4
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    Default

    Best technique... read Neils book and learn what differing types of finish involve.
    ....................................................................

  5. #5
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    I'm with harry, got it last week (late birthday present). Read it cover to cover that night... (Boy I need a life). now to put some of those tips into use....
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

    My Other Toys

  6. #6
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    Jun 2003
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    Sunbury, Vic
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    Default

    When all else fails read the instructions on the container
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  7. #7
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    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
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    Default

    KEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
    Use the Report icon at the bottom of all Posts, PM's and Blog entries.


  8. #8
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    Default

    yer ..................um

    What page should I turn to!

    I can see theres lots a fans of various texts n resources I guess what I'm really interested in is what you have found really works for you?

    For instance:

    1. When prepping stock do you work through the grits upto say 400?
    2. Do you sand further than 400 grit and if so how far do you go?
    3. What routine have got into with your sanding?
    4. Do you wet the stock down after the first sand?

    For me I tend to use a combination of:

    1. HAndplaning (LV LA Smoother)
    2. HAndscraping
    3. Random Orbit + Hand Sanding

    After Planing & scraping I Random orbital sand with 220 grit & hand sand up to 400. So far this has resulted in the stock becoming silky smooth to the touch. I wet down then HAndsand with 400grit Wet n Dry n theres ya apples!

    However when you listen to dudes like Michael Dresdner (Finishing Expert) he reckons most of us tend to oversand. His recommendation is to only go upto 320 grit garnet paper???

    I also recall reading that you can use a cotton glove and if the glove dosent catch on the stock and appears smooth then its ready for finishing!

    What do you try to achieve when preparing stock for finishing and how do you go about it?

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toowoomba Q 4350
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    Default

    Test pieces.

    If trying a new finish or timber, always try on scrap first, preferably the same as the wood you want to finish.

    Write the details on the back of the wood or keep the paper with the wood so you have details to refer back to.

    cheers
    Wendy

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Margaret River, Australia
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    103

    Default

    Visit furniture shops, galleries, friends, shows etc. Look at all the different finishes and decide which one's you like most. Then ask questions. Type of finish, gloss level, application method, wood preparation. You cant do this from books or magazines, you've got to get up close and personal.

    Once you've seen and felt the type of finish you REALLY want for your own work, the BEST way of learning how to achieve it is to find someone (even if you have to pay them) to show you how it's down. From final wood preparation to final finish coat. You can read & experiment all you like. And this will get you a long way toward your goal. But (from my experience) one session with a experienced finisher applying the finish of your choice, and you'll be miles ahead.

    My preferred finish options are...

    First: Acid Cat Lacquer / 40 % gloss (Satin finish). Hence Spray finish

    Second: Oil / Poly mix (Feast Watson Floorseal) - Applied by spraying.

    Spraying gives a perfect even finish. But if there are any minor blemishes, then there's always that MIRACULOUS PRODUCT.... Ubeat EEE Ultrashine. Which can also be used regardless as a nice final rub on coat.

    I always final sand to at least 180 grit orbital. And always lightly sand between coats with 320 grit (orbital). Both sanding jobs are done with the BEST FINAL / FINISH SANDING TOOL EVER MADE- a Festool ES 150 (maybe it's EQ?) with vacuum hose attachment to remove fine dust as you're sanding. I was also taught finsh sanding by a pro - particularly where edge work / rolled edges are involved. So try to find someone who can provide a hands on demo.

    Lou, my six cents worth for you.

    Richard

  11. #11
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    Gidday Richard

    Thank you so much for the informative reply....................Just the kind of advise I was looking for.

    I really do think theres a lot of wisdom in your suggestions n reckon theres nothing like gaining first hand experience from the pros! BUT I guess many of us do not have the opportunity to get face to face advise and experience from the xperts.

    Do finishers attent the working with wood shows to give such advise?


    I'm presently experimenting with a fest & Watson Spar Marine Varnish/Tung oil mix which so far is giving me great results..............I'm Upto 2nd coat will keep everyone posted on the outcome!

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou
    Gidday Richard

    Thank you so much for the informative reply....................Just the kind of advise I was looking for.

    I really do think theres a lot of wisdom in your suggestions n reckon theres nothing like gaining first hand experience from the pros! BUT I guess many of us do not have the opportunity to get face to face advise and experience from the xperts.

    Do finishers attent the working with wood shows to give such advise?


    I'm presently experimenting with a fest & Watson Spar Marine Varnish/Tung oil mix which so far is giving me great results..............I'm Upto 2nd coat will keep everyone posted on the outcome!

    REgards Lou
    Neil does, but you might need lotsa luck to find him during a quite spot.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Margaret River, Australia
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    Default

    Lou, depends where you're located, but I'm sure forum members would be happy to share experience. I remember Major Panic and others ran a spray finishing workshop last year. (Or was it the year before!) I'm in the west, so it's a bit far. I've found the pro's are happy to give advice. Another good option is to call the manufacturers or distributors of your favorite finish. They are usually happy to help and might tell you about someone "local" who will give hands-on help. (My lacquer distributor has provided demo's at their head office, and they also have a travelling rep). It may take some time & searching, but hopefully you could locate someone. It's maybe more helpfull for more technically challenging finishing techniques like spraying. I must have read every spraying guide published, but an hour with a furniture sprayer taught me more than weeks (years) of reading about it.

    Richard

  14. #14
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    Default Making your own wipe on Varnish

    Gidday

    Lately I've been thinking that theres no use being able to turn out a great 'piece' if I don't know how to finish. So I've been experimenting with a few little mixes and brews. I figure at least this way I know whats in it and can develop a few finishes that can become stable mates in my finishing arsenel.

    So far I have been really happy with a Wipe on VArnish I've been developing n if forum members want to make suggestions n contrabutions we'll call it the 'Forum Mix'

    I wanted to develop a finish that bring out lusture/ you can build n rub out & hopefully offers some good protection. I plan to wipe on about 10 coats n do a final finish with eee ultrashine & wax

    1 part mineral turpentine (100ml)
    2 parts feast & watson marine varnish (200ml)
    2 parts pure tung oil (200ml)

    I'd like to get some feedback from forum members about what kind of cloth/setup is your favourate for wiping on finishes.

    All suggestions comments feedback really appreciated.

    I'll do regular posts n pics on how the finish develops the stock is ASH and I've been doing a light sand between coats with 320 grit wet n dry.

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Margaret River, Australia
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    Default

    Lou, I think your mix sounds spot on. Should give you the finish you're after. I'm not sure about drying time between coats though. What are you planning on doing - leaving overnight? Also, will your wipe-on method involve removal (wipe-off) of any excess? The wipe on methods I've seen are really a "wipe-on / wipe-off" technique. Bit wasteful really.

    I'd love for you to give this a go... Get hold of even a cheapie spray gun & pot. Borrow an air compressor. Fill the pot with your mix and spray on an even coat. Let it dry (4-8 hours). Sand back with a random orbital (circular festool / bosch / makita) with 320 grit. Remove any fine sanding powder (blow with air compressor / wipe with dry cloth). Then re-spray. (Clean out the gun with turps in-between sprays) Once dry, that should do it. Finito. Beautiful, silky smooth, even. (Much better & easier than wiping / ragging on) If you want, a buff with EEE Ultrashine and you'll have perfection!! Please try it - even if it's just to humour me!!

    Then as one last experiment on your journey of finishing discoveries - grab a can of Feast Watson Floorseal and use the same technique. Maybe add 10% turps. My bet is you'll get an identical or even better (more durable) finish.

    (Then after doing this for a few years and taking 2 or 3 days to finish each piece, you might chance on someone doing a 40% gloss acid cat lacquer spray. The job will be finished in a few hours and the finish will be perfect. But that's another story...)

    Richard

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