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Results 1 to 10 of 10
Thread: hardwood floor finishes
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17th April 2006, 11:10 PM #1
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- Melbourne
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hardwood floor finishes
Hi,
We've removed the stinkin old carpets in our new 50 year old house and now we've got 50 year old hardwood floors to do something with. I think its tassie oak and it looks as though its been stained or oiled at some point. It has lots of character marks from when a log rolled out of the fire and a rocking chair rocked..
We also have a medium sized dog. What's the best finish for this floor? Will polyurethane protect it from dog claw skid marks? Also if we go for polyurethane or similar can we either stain the floor beforehand or add tint to darken the boards a bit to camoflage the worst of the character marks? Is it still practical to use oil if we plan to rent the house out in a few years?
Any advice would be welcomed!
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21st April 2006, 09:39 PM #2
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- Mar 2006
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- Near Canberra
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We have pit sawn blackwood boards in our hallway and have just used Tung oil. It copes very well with traffic and pets, has been down now for 2 years and shows no sign of wear. If it needs touching up you can just touch up the scratch unlike polyurethane finishes.
Regards,
Tote
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22nd April 2006, 10:01 AM #3
Beware the much misused term "tung oil". True tung oil is from the tung nut tree & was used in days gone by for flooring because of its hard setting quality. Nowdays its used to describe every known concoction of floor finish known to man, leading to a very confusing situation for consumers. I think its easier to categorise floor finishes into two categories - synthetic & natural. Synthetics place a "hard wearing" layer on the top of the timber, personally not my choice becuase when it gets scratched thats it. Natural finishes on the other hand (oil blends) rely on soaking into the timber & cure within. They require more maintainance, but at least you can rejuvinate them with a clean & re-oil/buff. I would recommend "Organoil Flooring Oil", but its use requires a proffesional skilled in using this type of finish because its not a case of placing the oil on & walking away. There's a knack to it called hard burnishing & you won't achieve a good finish DIY. Send me a PM if you want the name of a floor sander/finisher to do this in Melbourne.
"the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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22nd April 2006, 05:04 PM #4
We had our floors polished some years back had a 2 pac first and a 1 pac on top , use to tut tut over every mark but came to realize its a floor and a mop over using a couple of caps of metho in a bucket of water always brings back the satin finish , so whatever finish it will get scratches marks and if it gets too bad recoat but its still a floor and you need to live with that fault.
RgdsAshore
The trouble with life is there's no background music.
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23rd April 2006, 10:34 AM #5
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Originally Posted by Carpenter
Regards,
Tote
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23rd April 2006, 01:17 PM #6
Senior Member
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I too would recomend organoil, many other brands claiming to have tung oil in them actually use the shells from the tung nuts rather than the nuts themselves and only a tiny amount at that . also many of the turps based varnishes are upto 90% turps which just evaporates when applied.
Organoil is also made locally by byron bay hippies
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23rd April 2006, 07:47 PM #7
Originally Posted by Tote
"the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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14th May 2006, 11:00 AM #8
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What to do....???
Originally Posted by Carpenter
If using just straight Tung Oil, any idea of how much I would need for 50m2.
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15th May 2006, 04:25 PM #9
Learn to trim you dogs nails regularly - every 3 to 4 weeks. If your dog is still young and tolerant, use a dremel with the garnet paper sanding tubes to finish the nail off.
As an old show dog Vicki (my avatar) is used to all sorts or grooming which has saved us from scratches in the new floor - finished 8 weeks ago______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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15th May 2006, 08:54 PM #10
Sorry Olive, I know nothing about custom blending oil formulations. It does sound like a slippery slope though, unless its a tried & tested formula, but I wouldn't be performing an experiment on my floor! There are commercially available natural oil floor finishes available, & you can bet these manufacturers have tried hundreds of formulations before arriving at a product good enough for the shelves of the hardware & paint shops. You'd be very lucky to get it right on the first go.
"the bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"