Results 1 to 15 of 15
-
12th February 2006, 11:36 PM #1
What's David Marks' finishing mix?
I've been watching "Woodworks" with David Marks on cable TV for some time now and he's often mentioned finishing with a mix of linseed oil, tung oil and polyU. I've experimented around a bit, trying to work out the ratios but on tonights' episode (a bookcase) I heard him say something I hadn't noticed before: "a commercial mix of..."
Does anybody know what such a mix would be sold as? Please don't say "Danish Oil"
Or the ratios? I've also been assuming he doesn't mean boiled linseed... or would he? That may be where my mixes have gang aglay.
- Andy Mc
-
13th February 2006, 10:56 AM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2001
- Location
- Canada
- Age
- 94
- Posts
- 0
Formula
I don't know about Mark Davis"s finish, but Don Kondra, a Canadian cabinet maker and moderator " Ask A Pro " on a can. WW forumn and a WW magazine has this formula.
25% pure Tung Oil
25% Spar ( exterior ) Varnish
50% paint thinners
4-6 drops of Japan Driers
Wipe on a thin coat, it should dry in a few hours, continue wiping on thin coats
Paul
-
13th February 2006, 11:01 AM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 399
Oil Finish
Here is another 'home brew' you may want to try.
!/3 Poly or Varnish
1/3 Tung or Boiled Linseed Oil
1/3 White Spirits
You can alter this user friendly formula in may ways depending on the size of the work you will be doing. You can add an 'oil colorant' if you want color in the coating.
Good Luck
-
13th February 2006, 11:01 AM #4
Japan Driers? Please explain?
-
13th February 2006, 11:17 AM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- USA
- Posts
- 399
Japan Driers
These are 'chemicals' that are added to either the Tung Oil or Linseed Oil to speed up their dry times. They are also known as "metalic driers.' When added to paste pigmented colorants they are then called "Japan Colors".
Once, added to the Tung Oil, the tung oil is no longer 100% pure. When added to the Linseed Oil, it then becomes Boiled Linseed Oil.
-
13th February 2006, 11:18 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2001
- Location
- Canada
- Age
- 94
- Posts
- 0
Benny Laird
Japan Driers ( sometimes spelt Dryers ) Are available in paint & art stores and are used to speed up the drying process. Use only a few drops .
Paul
-
13th February 2006, 11:20 AM #7
thanks........
-
13th February 2006, 11:32 AM #8
Gidday Skew
Check out these webpages I'm sure you'll find what your looking for
http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/W...hane_46687.asp
http://www.ccsi.com/~mbrown/Woodwork...vid_marks.html
http://www.ccsi.com/~mbrown/Woodwork...rks_class.html
REgards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
-
13th February 2006, 11:59 AM #9Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
-
14th February 2006, 08:15 AM #10
Sorry Skewie but they're all just danish oil recipes, the original ones were made using spar varnish the latest use polyurethane because spar is hard to find now. There's a recipe for it in "A Polishers Handbook".
Cheers - NeilKEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
Use the Report icon at the bottom of all Posts, PM's and Blog entries.
-
14th February 2006, 08:55 AM #11
The American woodwork forums seem to be fixated on the 'rude and crude' finish, which is 1/3 pure tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 polyurethane varnish. http://www.kyler.com/index.php?optio...ask=view&id=31
Then the rude and crude champion started calling it weasel spit, and now sells weasel spit labels for empty cans for people to mix their own, cans not included (I am not making this up). http://www.weaselspit.com/component/...page/Itemid,1/
I expect David Marks is using something similar, and Sam Maloof has something like it in his book, with his products sold by rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004. All sounds like Danish Oil to me, and my guess is the MinWax wipe on poly is not too different.
Tex
-
14th February 2006, 10:16 PM #12
Thanks folks, that's cleared up one confusion but raised more questions.
I'm damned sure some so-called Danish's have about as much tung oil in 'em as my morning cup of coffee and the same is probably true for linseed oil as well. It seems that anything not 100% polyU gets the label... So when can a product honestly be called a real Danish Oil, as compared to just being a marketing ploy?
I really should just stick with the brands I know and like, concentrating on improving my finishes instead of worrying about minor details. But should and do are two different situations that rarely agree in my shop.
The Weasel Spit idea has merit... wonder if there's room in the Aussie market for Wombat Pee?
- Andy Mc
-
15th February 2006, 08:09 AM #13
Wombat Pee is hard to come by, maybe the cheaper finish Koala P-ss? Just pick one up and you'll get a free sample. (Oh and a few scratches)
Cute and Cuddly? My a-se.!!!!!!!
-
17th February 2006, 09:41 PM #14
Ha Ha, that made me laugh.
-
18th February 2006, 10:55 PM #15
I have heard of the use of cow manure and hores urine as components to a finishing system so.
There would probably be some merit to the koala as a finish chemical as it would have reasonable concentration of eucaliptus oil.
If you managed to get hold of a large angry and pissing koala you could probably achieve a unique new distressed finish all in one go.
The problem would be working out the correct personal protective equipment.
:eek:
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
Similar Threads
-
Norm versus David Marks
By HappyHammer in forum POLLSReplies: 22Last Post: 17th August 2004, 12:35 PM -
Homemade Finishing brew
By royal in forum FINISHINGReplies: 2Last Post: 21st August 2002, 01:06 PM
Bookmarks