Finishing a white timber.

[Simplicity]

“White timber types please” in my other thread,i was requesting some ideas of a whitish timber.

White timber types please.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


Well, i was given heaps of helpful advice and have also been offered a Piece of Norfolk island hibiscus.

But ,one question or remark that popped up was what finish to use on whitish timbers in a hope of retaining its colour(white) without some of the usual problems of the timber turning darker or turning slightly orange or yellowing which is a common problem ?

So, any suggestions on a suitable finish that hopefully won’t discolour the underlying timber,but add degree of protection.
In this instance it will be the front bun on a small infill plane.



Cheers Matt.

[Mobyturns]

CA glue will not change its colour when applied but that will not stop the wood from changing colour due to ageing.

About the best in the NCL is Mirrotone pre cat.

[powderpost]

CA glue will not change its colour when applied but that will not stop the wood from changing colour due to ageing.

About the best in the NCL is Mirrotone pre cat.

Agreed.....

Jim

[EagerBeaver71]

“White timber types please” in my other thread,i was requesting some ideas of a whitish timber.

White timber types please.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


Well, i was given heaps of helpful advice and have also been offered a Piece of Norfolk island hibiscus.

But ,one question or remark that popped up was what finish to use on whitish timbers in a hope of retaining its colour(white) without some of the usual problems of the timber turning darker or turning slightly orange or yellowing which is a common problem ?

So, any suggestions on a suitable finish that hopefully won’t discolour the underlying timber,but add degree of protection.
In this instance it will be the front bun on a small infill plane.



Cheers Matt.

G'day Matt!,

Have you tried Titebond diluted with some clear flinish, I usually use 50%water 25%titebond 25%whatever waterbased finish you decide. From my own experience discoloring mostly happens with oil based finishes. In the fine artworld this is sought after and is called "the golden glow".

[Ironwood]

Hey Matt. I have used Norfolk Island Hibiscus for segmenting in pens. Here is a new pic of one I did at least 10 years ago. The other timber is Purpleheart, which has gone a bit brown. I took the photo with a piece of white A4 paper as the background.
The finish is CA. If you hold the pen in your hand the NIH still looks white.
If I was using it for an infill, I would give it a few coats of thin CA to seal it well, buff it back a bit with 0000 steelwool, then give it a coat of Canauba wax.

DSC_2120.jpg

[Simplicity]

Bret,
I had actually initially thought of using CA, because I’ve used it on pens, an love the look.
But with a pen the sanding an buffing is pretty easy(Hope that doesn’t offend anyone).

But I’ve never used CA on anything bigger “Yet”
Maybe I should think some more about that, but one thing to consider is the front Bun is hopefully going to end up looking like the Scroll on the end of a violin,so might be a bit tricky to finish with CA


By the way Awesome pen.

Cheers Matt.

[Simplicity]

G'day Matt!,

Have you tried Titebond diluted with some clear flinish, I usually use 50%water 25%titebond 25%whatever waterbased finish you decide. From my own experience discoloring mostly happens with oil based finishes. In the fine artworld this is sought after and is called "the golden glow".

EB,

No I haven’t tried anything that exciting, but immmmmmm.
I mean we melt animals because it makes stuff stick together..

Cheers Matt.

[Ironwood]

Bret,
I had actually initially thought of using CA, because I’ve used it on pens, an love the look.
But with a pen the sanding an buffing is pretty easy(Hope that doesn’t offend anyone).

But I’ve never used CA on anything bigger “Yet”
Maybe I should think some more about that, but one thing to consider is the front Bun is hopefully going to end up looking like the Scroll on the end of a violin,so might be a bit tricky to finish with CA


By the way Awesome pen.

Cheers Matt.

Mark, no worries mate.
The CA would be just to seal the timber. The idea would be to use the thin stuff, and not let it pool on the surface. Once you get a few coats on, ( 2 or 3 ) and rubbed back with the steel wool, it will look almost like bare timber, put the wax on to make it feel nice.
I do this often with tool handles, and pens that I want a natural look.
Give it a test on a bit of scrap and see what you think. Use a bit of craft foam for an applicator, just squirt The CA on the timber, and quickly spread it around as evenly as you can with the foam before it goes off, you gotta be quick.

[Simplicity]

Mark, no worries mate.
The CA would be just to seal the timber. The idea would be to use the thin stuff, and not let it pool on the surface. Once you get a few coats on, ( 2 or 3 ) and rubbed back with the steel wool, it will look almost like bare timber, put the wax on to make it feel nice.
I do this often with tool handles, and pens that I want a natural look.
Give it a test on a bit of scrap and see what you think. Use a bit of craft foam for an applicator, just squirt The CA on the timber, and quickly spread it around as evenly as you can with the foam before it goes off, you gotta be quick.

So its kind of Sanding sealer,but wont let the grain come back through?

Cheers Matt.

[Ironwood]

So its kind of Sanding sealer,but wont let the grain come back through?

Cheers Matt.

Yep, that’s the idea

[Ironwood]

The buff with the 0000 wool is not to sand back, just to de-nib, and take the shine off any shiny bits.