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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    18

    Default How do I eliminate persistant brush marks in Wattyl water based Estapol ?

    I'm using the Wattyl water based Xtra Clear Estapol to finish a table top. The undercoat is Wattyl Sanding Sealer. I'm complying with the data sheet guidelines re temperature, etc and I've never had a problem with painting or varnishing until now.
    After sanding off my first attempt because of brush marks in the finish, I purchased new supposedly good quality brushes re applied the estapol and find the same problem with brush marks. I thought I was applying a generous amount to ensure it had time to set and level but still a problem.
    Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    614

    Default

    To prevent brush and lap marks I use Penetrol. Works very well.

    Check compatibility, of course.

    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    614

    Default

    Sorry, just reread your post and realised you are using water based product. Penetrol is no good for that. You could check out its companion product Flowtrol which is intended for water based finishes, but I haven't used it so can't recommend it.
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    279

    Default

    Your experience with water based polyurethanes is exactly the same as mine. I believe they simply dry too quickly to give the finish a chance to 'level out'. They might be smelly and evil but oil based poly's give a much better finish.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    608

    Default

    I had the same problem with oil base polys and and resorted to a spray gun. Perhaps heat the poly by sitting the can in boiling or very hot water long enough to raise the its temperature.
    CHRIS

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    80
    Posts
    36

    Default

    As mentioned some of these finishers do dry quickly,I use a small foam roller to get a generous coat on quickly

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,565

    Default

    One of the persistent problems with most waterbased finishes is that they don't flow as well as most solvent based. This problem is excarbated in warmer weather.

    Most paint manufacturers sell a Hot Weather Thinner, basically a glycol based product, that when added to a waterbased finish keeps the film open for longer and aids in flow.

    Dulux have one

    Product Detail

    and Solver (now owned by Wattyl) make one as well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Thanks guys. It appears the consensus is the quick drying time may be the problem so I'll buy a product as you mentioned BigShed. I'll also use it when it's cooler - though I thought 20 degrees C would have been cool enough.
    I'll post results here.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    608

    Default

    To look at it another way and what I was alluding to in my post, if the poly is too cold it won't level, being warmer it becomes less viscous and will spread better. It can't hurt to try a test piece using that method.
    CHRIS

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,565

    Default

    Chris, whilst what you say is true to a certain extent, it is a double edged sword.

    Warming up the waterbased poly will bring the viscosity down, although not as much as with a solvent based poly, but it will also set off the drying quicker thereby hampering the flow more.

    The addition of the Hot Weather thinner (usually about 50ml per ltr) will also lower the viscosity, but more importantly it will keep the film open because it is very slow evaporating solvent allowing the finish to flow out for longer.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    2,966

    Default

    Perhaps a different approach could be considered. When I apply a finish I generally tap the brush dry and apply a very thin coat and it might need more coats to give the same protection. Generally most of my finishing via a brush is water based.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    596

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by harry wall View Post
    I'm using the Wattyl water based Xtra Clear Estapol to finish a table top. The undercoat is Wattyl Sanding Sealer. I'm complying with the data sheet guidelines re temperature, etc and I've never had a problem with painting or varnishing until now.
    After sanding off my first attempt because of brush marks in the finish, I purchased new supposedly good quality brushes re applied the estapol and find the same problem with brush marks. I thought I was applying a generous amount to ensure it had time to set and level but still a problem.
    Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong?
    Hi Harry,

    Many on here are much more experienced than I am and I suspect that Big Shed and Christos's comments are right on the money.

    My main contribution is to reassure you that success is achievable as I have used the same water-based Estapol (low sheen) with absolutely no problems at all. I would not have thought 20 degrees would be hot enough for fast drying to leave brush marks, but it may depend where you are in this large country of ours. If the humidity is very low it will suck the water out of the Estapol and may leave you brush marks. I was using it in Brisbane so reasonably humid - no problems at all.

    I applied the Estapol fairly thinly, not generously as you would do for an oil-based gloss paint, so there wasn't much opportunity for brush marks. I also (as christos above) used a fairly dry brush and brushed it out as thin film.

    Good luck

    David
    Last edited by Xanthorrhoeas; 30th November 2016 at 05:26 PM. Reason: typos

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Update....
    I purchased an acrylic paint conditioner (at the recommendation of the local paint supplier). I think it's called Floetrol.
    Tried that but no improvement so I bought yet another brush - a 63mm synthetic bristle Monarch Razorback Oval Cutter for $24.
    That seems to have produced a good result but I had to use a new can of Estapol so there is still a possibility the problem was the previous can of Estapol.
    I'll try the new brush but with the previous can of Estapol tomorrow and that will identify the problem once and for all.
    So far it looks like the brushes I was using were simply too stiff.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Update, again.
    No luck (or maybe no skill !)
    Still get brush marks. Some parts of the table top were good and others bad so I, yet again, attacked it with the sander with 240 grit to get back to a smooth finish. The next step is to try the "dry" technique already mentioned. I'll apply a thin coat. (The technical data sheet says to apply "generous coats" so that's why I started that way).
    Just tried to telephone Wattyl (now Valspar) but they are closed for the day.
    This product is really annoying me. I've painted all sorts of things from houses and yachts to furniture over the past 30 years and never had this problem.
    There has to be an answer. I don't want anyone else to go through this crap and waste the time I have.
    To be continued...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    608

    Default

    I had exactly the same problem with a Cabots oil based poly and against Cabot's technical dept advice I finished up spraying it, I wasn't concerned with the cost as someone else was paying the bills for the job.
    CHRIS

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