Finishing a merbau kitchen bench top

[Snapper_Kev]

Hello all,

I am currently working on a project installing a new kitchen. I am making everything from cabinets to benchtop. I have purchased some re-cycled Merbau (Kwila) hard wood that came from a school here in Melb. so it's at least 50 years old and very well seasoned. My question is, what you all may regard to be the prefered finish for a kitchen bench top. I have considered a Danish Oil and wax but concerned about the wearing qualities of this method. Alternatly I'm looking at a two pack Poly wich should alleviate my wearing concerns but being so hard, very difficult to repair any damage. Any help and suggetions would greatly appreciated.

[Snapper_Kev]

I should have added.. I am also looking at using the same wood - finish for a bathroom vanity? Would the this be suitable given the moisture, or do I need to be looking at a marine grade product?

[journeyman Mick]

Kwila bleeds like crazy when it gets wet and I doubt any oil finish will keep water out forever. I would reccomend 2 pack estapol, traditionally used for floors. It's hard, readily available and tried and proven.

Mick

[Cliff Rogers]

G'day.

I used Kwila for a workbench & I sealed it with Penetrol wood oil.

Do a search on this forum 'cos there was some one who posted something about a sealer to stop Kwila from bleeding when it gets wet.

[Snapper_Kev]

Thanks for your input Mick & Cliff... I'm starting to think a two pack poly may be my safest bet.. Especially in the bathroom... Off topic, but another question.. I'm looking at cutting tounge & groove joins for the 70mm wide x 1000 long x 35mm thick merbau boards. Do you think this is the best approach or should I consider biscuit / dowel ?

[echnidna]

Thanks for your input Mick & Cliff... I'm starting to think a two pack poly may be my safest bet.. Especially in the bathroom... Off topic, but another question.. I'm looking at cutting tounge & groove joins for the 70mm wide x 1000 long x 35mm thick merbau boards. Do you think this is the best approach or should I consider biscuit / dowel ?

Tongues are stronger than dowels or biscuits as the timber grain is all in alignment. Loose tongues would be the easiest to make and only need to be 3mm thick (an average saw kerf width is sufficient)

Make sure the tongues are within 6 to 8mm from the top surface as this will mean thickness variations due to humidity changes will be mainly confined to the underside of the benchtop.

Kwila is a bit difficult to glue due to its oils and resins

[BrisBen]

Hi Kev

I'm only a newbie here but I thought I would post my two bobs worth about the Kwila.

I am currently in the process of making a Kwila dry bar for my Dad to sit at and watch the world go by. It's 600 x 600 x 50mm and made from some VERY seasoned offcuts (stairtreads) that were hanging around the timber yard for who knows how long.

Joining was a little difficult - my first doweled joint split with a bit of a bump - so I had to cut them out and went hardcore with a bit of liquid nails (Like I said - I'm a newbie, it didn't work - so I used a bigger hammer!!)

Having joined it I then set out on the finishing (legs will be brushed stainless made by a mate so all I have to do is screw them on)

Man - this stuff is HARD - took a flogging with a belt sander, then various steps to get to 180 grit on the ROS - I should have started this 60th birthday present a helluva lot earlier.

I'm a little way from finished but what I can say is - filling the grain on old Kwila takes a little time - The guys say when it is young it is full of oils and resins which bleed out when wet, well a couple of years in the open and although still very hard it takes a lot of coats to fll the minute grains, not to mention a couple of the hairline cracks in the surface, maybe I am replacing the oils and resins with poly. Yep - I used sanding sealer, two coats, an am now using one pack poly for each coat - sanding with 320 between them.

Now I realised I should have two packed it - but hey - that's whats learning this stuff is all about

Gotta go - 12 hours have elapsed, gotta go sand and coat

Maybe I'll post some pics somewhere when it's done

Ben