![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 1 to 4 of 4
-
16th July 2012, 11:36 PM #1
Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Australia
- Age
- 29
- Posts
- 0
finish for New guinea Rosewood Hall table
Hey I was just curious if anyone knows of a good quality finish for New Guinea Rosewood that I can apply, Preferably quick drying so I can apply a couple of coats in the space of a week-3days and also i can sand with some 240 or 600 grit to make it very smooth
Cheers
-
17th July 2012, 12:39 PM #2
What sort of finish do you want, high gloss or satin?
Do you want a nice looking finish or a long-lasting finish?
Do you want something easy, or is it a show piece that you want to put in the extra work to make it look really awesome?Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
-
30th July 2012, 09:39 PM #3
... and this too shall pass away ...
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Brisbane (Chermside)
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 0
Pre-Cat Lacquer works for me
Just finished two jobs in the same timber using PPG's pre-cat lacquer.
The ladies who now own these pieces did not want high gloss, because such a finish leaves finger marks and some scratch easily. Pre-cat lacquer has a bit of "give" in it so it marks less easily than some finishes.
If you are inexperienced, I could only recommend this lacquer. It is easy to use; easy to repair, and serviceable. There are many great finishes, but when I was a novice, I used lacquer exclusively, at the advice of my local supplier. It was good advice.
Apply sanding sealer first. If you want to fill the grain entirely, four to six coats will be necessary, sanding between coats to flatten the surface. If you don't care to fill the grain, one or two coats will suffice.
Then apply (say) two or three coats of lacquer. Two hours between coats and no need to sand between coats.
I then rub the surface down with 400 and then 600 wet and dry (wet). Because I do not have a spray booth, I then make up a very thin mix (30% lacquer, 70% thinners) and apply a "flash" coat, which will become touch dry very fast, giving dust a very limited chance to mar the finish.
Usually, I get one or two "dust pimples" on the surface. These can be (very gently) rubbed out with a piece of 1500 wet and dry paper. Finally, after a couple of days I buff these pimple repairs (or indeed, the whole top) very gently with a lambs-wool buffing wheel. (Ideally, you should wait about 5-7 days before buffing, but it can be quicker if you are very careful). Be careful, and do not apply enough pressure to get the surface hot. Pre-cat lacquer is not made to be buffed, but if you are gentle, it will work just fine.
For a hand rubbed mirror finish you will need something like a 2-pack poly or an acid cure lacquer.
All of this assumes your preferences will be similar to mine (and to my kids, who now own these pieces in NG Rosewood). It will be interesting to see what other responses you get.
-
3rd August 2012, 05:33 PM #4
Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7
Hi,
I've used Rustin's Danish Oil with great success on New Guinea rosewood. a satin finish that looks great and is quite robust. Just follow the instructions on the tin.