Blue gum slab table

[BrisBen]

First Post - be gentle

I have the opportunity to purchase some bluegum slab timber which I intend to make into a "heirloom" table.
I am told it was ringbarked in the 30's and is from "around the Maryborough area" (you all probably know how cagey these guys are about their sources).
I want to make a tabletop, probably doweled from two individual pieces, 2400 x 120mm. It will probably be thicknessed to between 40 and 45mm on a slab master depending on the slabs I pick.
The question is: what do I do then to finish it, remembering I have never attempted anything like this before, BUT I want it all to be MY work.
Criteria for finished table Durable enough for the boys to spill beer on for a card night, fancy enough for a formal setting when the inlaws come over, maybe one day the kids will do their arts and crafts on it and it will survive unscathed.

Any thoughts?

[Richardwoodhead]

Do a bit of a search through this forum - there are quite a few threads which discuss different finishing options. I only joined up in Dec 04, and even since then have seen numerous threads on this topic. One great piece of advice I remember someone giving (wish I could remember who) was along the lines that of the 3 aspects of timber finishing: GOOD / CHEAP / EASY - you can never achieve all three with any one type of finish -

. If it's good and cheap - it won't be easy
. If it's good and easy - it won't be cheap
. If it's cheap and easy - it won't be good

This is probably an "over-simplification" - but not by much. I've been "full time" woodworking (after retiring from a previous career) for about 5 years now and mastering finishing was (for me anyway) the hardest aspect. All the other stuff (design, dressing, joinery, gluing etc) came with practice. But learning how to get a finish I was happy with took me years. And the learning curve is still steep.

There are more options than you can point a stick at. Oils, shellacs, urethanes, oil/urethane mixes, lacquers, etc - and they all have to be "mastered". You'll find threads on each of these if you research. And we all have our preferences -

After that long-winded intro - here's my suggestion.... After sanding back with an orbital to 180 grit, brush on a good coat of Feast Watson FloorSeal. (IF you can borrow a spray gun with pot - then spray it on - it'll be MUCH more even). Let dry (6-8 hours, depending on temperature etc). Sand sand back (orbital) with 320 grit. Then apply ( again, spray if you can) a second coat of Floorseal. This stuff is really durable (re your requirements) and will bring out the beauty of the timber. My advice - stear clear of the oils - they're dead easy to rag on - but then the problems start .. dull finish, water (beer) stains, etc.. At least that's my experience...

Good luck.

[Wongo]

2 coats of Wattyl oil based Satin Polyurethane.

-Thin the first coat to around 50%-60% (as sealer)
-Sand the first coat (600 – 800)
-Thin the second coat to around 80% (PloyU is usually too thick to work with)
-Sand the second coat with finer sand paper (800 – 1200)
-Buff the table with polish compound

Forget about oil and wax. It will cause you pain and frustration in the future.

[Baz]

Brisben, 240mm (2 pieces 2400x 120) is bloody narrow for a dinner table, maybe you meant 1200mm width? I have a Jarrah slab table that is about 880mm wide and 35mm thick. I finished mine with polyurothane.
Cheers
Barry

[ozwinner]

Heres mine, show me yours.
Made from Qld Kaurri and red gum.

Al

[BrisBen]

Whoops sorry Barry - missed a zero - yes it will be 2400 x 1200mm - hopefully an eight seater!

Ozwinner - mine is still sitting in the yard waiting to be thicknessed - I didn't want to get too carried away till I had all the info - maybe I should post a pic of the raw slab...

[Richardwoodhead]

BrisBen, just to alert you that you're not getting "conflicting" advice - Wongo is spot on with his "oil based satin polyurethane" recommendation. Sounds like his Wattyl product is similar to the Feast Watson Floorseal (which is a Tung Oil based satin polyurethane). Wongo's sanding / application advice would do a better job if you're not spraying (i.e.- you're brushing on). If you were spraying - at least with Floorseal - you only need to go to a 320 grit on the sanding between coats. And don't need to thin. Although if you're spraying - thinning 10-20% with turps for the first (sealing) coat is OK.

(Wongo - do you thin with turps?)

[Wongo]

(Wongo - do you thin with turps?)

Yes