Tokentools alupulse tig - controls

[steran50]

HI ALL,
I have a Tokentools Alupulse AC/DC Tig Welder that I Bought in late Feb 2011. I noticed when I got the Machine that some of the Controls weren't quite right ie don't got EXACTLY from A to B like there supposed to. I meant to Email Tokentools whilst it was under Warranty in regards to the Controls, but never got around to it.
It wasn't until Tonight after I decided to Send them an Email to quiz them about the Controls that I realised just how much the Controls are out. I checked all the Control Knobs for their Positions from A to B the Results are as Follows:
RE: In relation to the Knobs white mark and the relavent Knobs graduation marks.

Weld Current 5 - 200 Starts 1/4 of a mark before 5 and stops at 200 (this one not important due to digital readout)

Pulse Current 5 - 200 Starts at 5 and stops 1/3 of a mark before 200

Arc Force 0% - 100% Starts just before 0% and stops 1-1/2 marks before 100%

Pulse Duty 10% - 90% Starts at 10% and stops 1-1/4 marks before 90%

Pulse Freq 0.5 - 25 Starts just before 0.5 and stops 1-1/3 marks before 25

AC Freq 10 -300 Starts just before 10 and stops 1-1/3 marks before 300

AC Balance 20% - 80% Starts 1/3 of a mark before 20% and stops 1-1/2 marks before 80%

Up Slope 1-5 Starts a 1/4 of a mark before 1 and stops 1-1/4 marks before 5

Down Slope 1 - 5 Starts a 1/4 of a mark before and stops 1-1/3 marks before 5

Post Flow 1 -25 Starts 1/5 of a mark before 1 and stops 1-1/3 marks before 25


Has Anyone else that has an Tokentools Alupulse got the same issue with the Control Knobs or did I get a Bodgy one ?. It is a good Welder, but with the Controls like they are it does make it hard to know where You are.

I wonder if the Everlast Tig Welders have this Control Issue or not ?. Has Anyone seen or had a Play with the New Xcalibur 210 Amp AC/DC Pulse Tig ? Xcalibur 210Amp AC/DC Pulse [xc2100] : australiawelding.com.au, by Mildura Welding and Gas Sales

[bimbo]

I have one, I will have a look sometime tomorrow to check it out for you.

[inverter_weld]

Hi Stewart,

The sweep range of the welders potentiometers is slightly less than the printed panel range, for example the pots are 120 degree sweep and the panel printing is around 135 degrees. If the white indicator line on a knob is misaligned you can correct it by removing the coloured cap, loosen the brass locking nut with a small flat blade screwdriver and reposition such that there is equal travel either side of centre but it will still be out a few degrees of the min and max printed on the membrane. You have had yours for around 15 months now, how do you find it?

Cheers
Pete

[steran50]

Hi Stewart,

The sweep range of the welders potentiometers is slightly less than the printed panel range, for example the pots are 120 degree sweep and the panel printing is around 135 degrees. If the white indicator line on a knob is misaligned you can correct it by removing the coloured cap, loosen the brass locking nut with a small flat blade screwdriver and reposition such that there is equal travel either side of centre but it will still be out a few degrees of the min and max printed on the membrane. You have had yours for around 15 months now, how do you find it?

Cheers
Pete

HI Pete,
Well that Answers one question, so all the Welders Control Panels are all out of whack much the same. Have You thought about getting the a New Control Panel Membrane made up with the correct Graduations perhaps either adding more Numbering to the Panel? - it would make the Welder a lot more user Friendly and Saleable. Here is thought what about taking the Control Panels to the level like ie the Kemmpi, Lincoln - Digital Touch Panel Controls?.

I take it You mean use a small flat bladed screwdriver to remove the coloured cap and then loosen the brass locking nut so as the Potentiometers can be repositioned - and that is not a bad idea. How do I find the Welder - I like it a lot apart from the disappointment with the Controls I find it quite easy to use. I wouldn't say I have used it Heaps, but I have done a bit of Work with it and the Welds have been Good. I haven't had a Play with the Foot Pedal as yet. I hope to finally get around and start making the Welding Trolley for it on the Weekend so it will get some use then.

I had been in the Process of drafting an Email to Tokentools, but since You have answered the Question on here I won't bother. Just one other question before I go when You are Arc/Stick Welding with it and You switch it from AC to DC (obviously not whilst actually welding) does it do both AC and DC or is it only DC ?.
Thankyou.

[bimbo]

Sounds like Pete has sorted it out. I checked min and they are all pretty much right at 0 or a bit higher and don't quite go all the way to the end. Never noticed it before but you generally arn't using the extreemes (0 or max) of the functions anyhow.

[inverter_weld]

Hi Stewart,

Potentiometers can have a tollerance up to +/- 20% and as the controls are analogue you will have more discrepancy by adding greater detail. The indication of minimum and maximum values serves only to allow the operator to estimate quickly what the knob is set to. For example, if putting the AC frequency control half way you would expect around 150Hz with an error of up to 30hz either higher or lower. If it was accurately graduated in smaller increments then the error would seem greater as the operator would have an expectation of the exact value indicated.

Feedback from customers has shown a preference for analogue control due to the one look see everything at once understanding of setup. Most digital panels tend to be harder to comprehend at a glance as you need to go through all the settings to check what they are before welding. They tend to use the one display as the setting indicator whilst you cycle through the settings. In order that we cater to all market preferences we are also currently working on a digital control panel interface and it is expected we can offer an inexpensive upgrade to existing customers that already have the Alupulse / Alusync. It is still in testing. The digital control will enable very accurate settings.

Kemppi Welding and Lincoln Welding make wonderful digital interface products however the challenge for Tokentools Welding is to introduce such technologies at a price point and reliability level that most consumers desire.

Yes you are correct about the screwdriver, flat for the cap and a philips for the knob itself.

For ARC welding the machine will automatically provide DC only. DC enables you to bias heat to the job or the electrode subject to which of these is in the positive. An AC wave would split the heat evenly between job and electrode and introduce a little more difficulty in arc strike as the arc would be (positive on - off - zero crossing - negative on - off - zero crossing etc) much like the good old days of transformer welders except with an AC square wave. If you need AC, it can be done with a simple mod.


Regards
Pete

[steran50]

Hi Stewart,

Potentiometers can have a tollerance up to +/- 20% and as the controls are analogue you will have more discrepancy by adding greater detail. The indication of minimum and maximum values serves only to allow the operator to estimate quickly what the knob is set to. For example, if putting the AC frequency control half way you would expect around 150Hz with an error of up to 30hz either higher or lower. If it was accurately graduated in smaller increments then the error would seem greater as the operator would have an expectation of the exact value indicated.


Regards
Pete

HI Pete,
Thankyou, what You Said in Your first paragraph makes a lot of sense. I was asking the Arc question to quell My Curiousity, I thought it was DC only and You proved Me right. I look for the Answer in the Instruction Book, but I couldn't find it. I am quite happy with just DC on the Machine.
I am definately interested in the Digital Upgrade if everything goes well with the Testing. I will keep an eye on Your Website for it.

[johncar]

Hey it is not something I thought too much about with my Everlast machine or other stuff. I tend to start at a rough position on the dial and adjust the knobs by observing and listening to the effect rather then worry exactly what division the knob is pointing to. It would seem a bit unrealistic and unnecessary to have highly calibrated control knobs, I don't look exactly where they are pointing anyway.
The simplicity of operation and layout is the attaction for me as a user and although I do use other digital machines at work and home, I like the analogue controls and find it easier at a quick glance to see where the machine is set.
Even when using the digital stuff I set it up at the parameters recommended for material type, thickness, gas, wire, etc and I still have to tweak things either way so it is never perfect with them either. If something is not right then I may have to scoll back through the setup to recheck everything.
The digital setup however does make life a little easier for repeatitive jobs when I can recall up previous settings but I hardly ever do that as every job is slightly different even if just ambient temperature. Just puts you in the ball park.
With the TIG after setting rough settings I find the pedal to be my best friend and hardly seem to have to touch the knobs.

[steran50]

HI,
I would have to Say that I am a bit fussy when it comes to My Welders, I like to know reasonably well where the Controls are. With the Control Knobs being out so much it was hard to judge what they set to. I adjusted all the Control Knobs expect for the Weld Current Knob last Weekend so that there is equal Travel on either side of Centre. I haven't had a chance to do any Welding with since the Adjustment, but at least I will have a better Idea as to what My Settings are.