New QCTP Could I get some feedback please

[colbra]

Hi All
I have just got a quick change tool post from H&F the model is QA140 the height centre is 150 to a 170mm in the specks it takes a 16mm lather tool holder mine is 12mm I believe that its ok according to the sales people I can move the tool up on the slide or if necessary I can pack it a little which I do with my ordinary tool post.

The lathe is a AL330 which I had bought about 5 years ago, the thing is I have some alterations to do, the plate at the base of the QCTP will not bolt straight on to the cross slide, I was made aware of this by the salesman at H&F before I purchased it he explained the tool post is a generic make and alterations had to be made to most lathes it would be fitted too If what he tells me is correct, I do not have a problem with.
I can alter the base to fit. I would also have to make a recess in the base of the QCTP for the spring cam that holds the post square although I may not need this I always parallel this up with a tiny square I have

I would like to get some feedback if what I have been told is correct by the sales people at H&F
I have been thinking of easier ways of doing the correction the QCTP base. It has to be machined down it’s about 10mm to thick and about 10mm to wide this is only an estimate it’s too cold to go downstairs and measure it! This will do for an explanation!

The other way is to keep the existing base and put a helicoil in that, then use the bolt that come with the QCTP in the old base it’s only about .5 to 1mm difference the other approach is to get another piece of steel and just make a new one to fit if I was to do this and it come out ok it would be great for my confidence in the machining part of things. The other thing if it all goes pear shaped the QCTP is still new and I could take the thing back and get my money on it which I have already spoken to the sales manager about he was ok with this you folks may have other ideas on things. I would like to here them please
It’s all good fun and fills my day in
Colbra

[pipeclay]

Your tooling shank size will not be a problem,the adjustment in the holder travel with cover that.

The spring that you want to use to hold the tool block is not really required,use your square as you mention if it is a concern.Most times just eyeing it square if that is what you want will do.You mainly only need it square for threading,parting,drilling if you dont wish to use the tailstock and boring holes that are reasonably deep with a boring bar that is very close to the bore diameter.

Does your compound have a Tee slot for the current tool post or is the tool post secured by a Stud.

If it has a Tee slot it would be cheaper for you to remachine the plate that comes with the holder down to the correct dimensions,you would then need to face the short end of the stud supplied with the tool post to suit the remachined plate.

If you have a stud you could try and machine the tool post stud supplied,but may be better off machining a new stud to suit.If doing the new stud use 4140 .

[colbra]

Hi Pipeclay my compound does have a T slot to hold the current tool post I agree with what you’re saying, I would gain more out of that exercise not only being more cost effective but just giving more confidence in machining and achieving a suitable outcome in marching itself as my background & hobby are forum wise is woodwork.

The other thing if I make the stud and the block and it goes pear shaped I have lost nothing and can get my money back .But I’m sure this will not be the case. I have looked up and found that 4140 is high tensile steel so that’s a bit more I have learnt.
If I decide to make the block what sort of steel would be used there, to my way of thinking the block is not under as much stress so maybe it’s not so important.
What are your thoughts on putting a helecoil in the old block to the same size as the new stud.

Thanks Pipeclay Col

[pipeclay]

The block would only need to be made out of bright or black flat bar.(1020) mild steel.

The block can be all machined on the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck.

If you have the correct size helicoil ,drill and tap and insertion tool that would be ok,if not then cost would make it prohibitive.

If you dont have the correct dies or dont feel confident in screw cutting threads on the lathe it would be a lot easier for you to reduce the overall size of the sliding block and the length of the tool post stud.

I do a lot of Hercus 9" and 260 QCTP mods for the AXA type.I make studs for the flat type 260 compound and Tee nuts and studs for the 9" and 260 Tee slotted compounds rather than modifying the original.For me it is just quicker but in your case for a one off I would modify the original.

[colbra]

The block would only need to be made out of bright or black flat bar.(1020) mild steel.

The block can be all machined on the lathe with a 4 jaw chuck.

If you have the correct size helicoil ,drill and tap and insertion tool that would be ok,if not then cost would make it prohibitive.

If you dont have the correct dies or dont feel confident in screw cutting threads on the lathe it would be a lot easier for you to reduce the overall size of the sliding block and the length of the tool post stud.

I do a lot of Hercus 9" and 260 QCTP mods for the AXA type.I make studs for the flat type 260 compound and Tee nuts and studs for the 9" and 260 Tee slotted compounds rather than modifying the original.For me it is just quicker but in your case for a one off I would modify the original.

Hi Pipeclay
It’s all finished I ended up making a new base worked out real good the only thing is I broke two end mills all my fault but lessens well learnt.
What did happen too was I burntout my new power feed out and I don’t know why I was careful not to put any load on the feed tell it reached full power I had been running it for about 2hrs on and off I did notice the motor got quite hot! it’s only about a month old and this was the first time I had really used it maybe I should have got a bigger one mine is AL-99SP. I am not sure if the next size up will fit straight onto my mill HM 46.
I will ring H&F I think I should get a new one being the fact it failed in a matter of a couple of weeks of purchase.

Col

[Dave J]

Hi Col,
I answered your pm.
With the power feed you should be able to go at any speed, from a crawl to full speed for returning the table. If you start the power feed 10mm away it will have plenty enough power to mill with. I regularly only have it a few mm away from the job. In the last few weeks my power feeds have been getting a real workout and sometimes running for 6-8 hours back and forth, so I would say you got a dud.

Something to look at also is how tight you have the table gibs done up, they should be firm, but you should be able to wind the table by hand easy enough but with a bit of resistance.

Dave

Edit,
Just to add, you should be able to mill with the power feed on the slowest setting as far as torque goes. Theres no need to wait until it builds up speed.

[pipeclay]

Was the power feed fitted to the mill when you recieved it,or did you need to fit it.

If you had to fit it was it a complete unit or in pieces.

Even by some chance if you did have something tight the clutch on the power feed should of worked.

I havent read many stories about the power feed units having problems,but the ones that I have related to speed controlers not working properly.

I think from memory mine is a 135ft/lb model,my biggest problem normally comes from running rapid and then engaging feed in the opposite direction before the motor stops,or if milling left to right at a fast rate not waitng for the motor to stop before changing direction.

[Dave J]

+1 on what Pipeclay has said, and I will add it's often hard to hear the power feed winding down when running at higher speeds or if your mill is noisy, so you have to give it plenty of time to be sure, otherwise you could do damage as he said.

With the heat problem, either it's a faulty unit, or it was working over time with the gibs to tight or something. Even so, they have a reset button and it should have popped.

Dave