Since Woodwork Forums are attended by some of the most knowlegeable woodworkers world-wide, even though my question relates to finishing American Red Oak, may I ask your advice?

Our Florida club was given about 1000 bf of 4/4 roughsawn American Red Oak about 3 months ago by a local hardwood dealer who wanted it out of his warehouse - because - as he said - he suspected some of the boards were infected with the Lycid variety of Powder Post Beetle.

While we sorted out all the boards with obvious beetle damage - these are of course beetle 'exit holes' - and didn't tell us anything about the possibility of active infection - on these, as well as the 'clean looking' boards.

Its now April (Our Spring of course ), and we are seeing new exit holes - and frass - on some of the boards. They are definitely Lycids. Fortunately, all boards were stored in their own area- stickered under tarps.

We are in the process of starting to brush each board with 2 coats of 10% 'Timbor' (actually the U.S. Navy formula for a Timbor equivalent - 60% borax and 40% boric acid in a 10% water solution).

Now my Finishing question. When we use the stuff, we will likely try to trim off much of the sapwood, leaving as far as possible, only truewood - where the bugs are less likely to be.

We will then surface plane it to thickness before milling it to shape. This is likely to remove most - if not all - the 'Timbor' from the surfaces of the board. So, we are considering re-applying one 10%. 'Timbor' coat before final finishing, just in case grubs are still in the timber. (We don't want bugs exiting in a year or more from our finished furniture - infecting the house).

We are not planning on a glycol-based borate - just a water solution of Borates.. (Though if you think we should be using a glycol - please advise so.. With glycol, might we be able to skip the after-planing/milling recoat? But then, what finish on top of the remaining glycol?)

We expect the borated water to 'raise the grain'. So we will be looking at unfinished 'projects' with raised grain that need a finish - and a finishing schedule that does not remove the surface Borates. And that sticks to it. Timber will have dried before finishing however.

How to do it? Any and all suggestions, comments appreciated!

Possibilities we are thinking about:

1. Danish Oil Finish - lightly sand wet with the Danish Oil on - wiping into the grain before wiping off the excess with the grain.

2. Leave the grain raised and untouched. Seal with Shellac washcoat. Apply Lacquer, Varnish, or other film finish over the Shellac, multiple coats rubbing out and/or sanding lightly (if varnish) between coats

Other approaches? Any and all appreciated!

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Chris cahudson42