Finishing my mandolins

[JupiterCreek]

Hi all

I'm currently finishing my solidbody mandolins with Cabothane Gelclear, complete with brushmarks and lots of hair and rough bits on the endgrain. While I was at the Adelaide WWW show I bought some Ubeaut sanding sealer, but I'm also thinking maybe their traditional wax could be a good finish.

A question or several:

Does the sanding sealer go over the stain (Wattyl Wood Gel) or can it go over after some light sanding?

Does traditional wax give a water and spilt alcohol-proof coating?

How hard is the finish, and how thick? Can you keep applying more wax to build up a thicker coat?

Any and all input gratefully accepted!!

[kiwigeo]

Hi all

I'm currently finishing my solidbody mandolins!!

Solid body mandolins???

Im very interested...tell me more about these babies.

Martin

[JupiterCreek]

Hi kiwigeo

It all started with the Less Paul Very Junior, now it's grown into a small venture making solidbody mandos and octave guitars, and I'm working on solidbody ukes and guitars too!

It's all good clean fun, except for the sawdust and swarf and ruined paintbrushes and necks that go wrong and bodies that don't quite work out and cold wet nights in the shed and my poor neglected fiance who used to quite like the fact that I played a bit of guitar! )

[Cliff Rogers]

G'day.
I play a guitar & do woodwork BUT don't think for one minute that I have any
idea what I'm talking about when it comes to finishes on musical instruments....
However... I think that most modern solid body instruments are finished with
sprayed Nitrocellulose Lacquer

[kiwigeo]

Hi kiwigeo

It all started with the Less Paul Very Junior, now it's grown into a small venture making solidbody mandos and octave guitars, and I'm working on solidbody ukes and guitars too!

It's all good clean fun, except for the sawdust and swarf and ruined paintbrushes and necks that go wrong and bodies that don't quite work out and cold wet nights in the shed and my poor neglected fiance who used to quite like the fact that I played a bit of guitar! )

Very interesting stuff....the solidbody ukes are very unusual.....and (dare I say it) downright "cute".

My wife and your fiancee could probably spend hours sharing thoughts on their partners obsession with luthiery. Mine is actually very understanding.......she'd rather have me busy out in the workshop making sawdust than hanging around the house driving her nuts.

Youve probably seen the discussion I started on humidity and luthiery but I guess if soild bodies are your game its probably less of an issue.

Cheers Martin

[kiwigeo]

Hi all

I'm currently finishing my solidbody mandolins with Cabothane Gelclear, complete with brushmarks and lots of hair and rough bits on the endgrain. While I was at the Adelaide WWW show I bought some Ubeaut sanding sealer, but I'm also thinking maybe their traditional wax could be a good finish.

A question or several:

Does the sanding sealer go over the stain (Wattyl Wood Gel) or can it go over after some light sanding?

Does traditional wax give a water and spilt alcohol-proof coating?

How hard is the finish, and how thick? Can you keep applying more wax to build up a thicker coat?

Any and all input gratefully accepted!!

Jupiter

Have you checked out the Luthier's Merchantile Int and Stewmac sites? I think one or both sites have on line info on alot of stuff. If you order the LMI catalogue they throw in a really valuable folder chock full of information on just about every aspect of luthiery.

If you dont want to go to the bother of getting the above then email me your postal address and Ill send you a photocopy of relevant sections of the catalogue that deal with solid body finishing....Im offshore working right now but should be able to action a request in 2-3 weeks time when I get home.

Martin

[JupiterCreek]

Hi Cliff

Yep. Fender uses polyester, Gibson uses nitrocellulose, all sprayed, polished and buffed. Reranch sell a range of aerosol nitrocelluslose lacquers in the USA but they can't/won't ship them overseas. I realise I can send my bodies and necks out to someone to spray and polish them, but I want to see what finishes are possible without either sending them out or buying spray gear and learning how to use it myself. For example I've seen some great finshes with a wiped on finish of Birchwood-Casey's Tru-Oil. The finish quality I was seeing in the demos at the Ubeaut stand at the Adelaide WWW show blew me away, so I was wondering how their products would maybe suit my purposes.

[kiwigeo]

Jupiter,

I guess you with the short necks on your instruments you wouldnt need a truss rod....have you had any issues with warp on the necks?

Have just noticed your location.....and your age. A 46 year old luthier living in Adelaide......youre not in the hills too are you? Whats the bet youre living a couple of houses down the street????

Martin

[JupiterCreek]

Hi Martin

Give us a scream when you return! We're in the same city after all!

Neither Stewmac nor LMII can ship aerosols overseas apparently. I haven't seen the LMI catalog, although I visit their and Stewmac's website frequently (and Stairway to Kevin's website so I can tell Craig at Guitarworks the part numbers of the bits I need!).

No trussrod, just a 6mm steel rod for reinforcing set in epoxy.

I'm in the western suburbs. Cowandilla.

Catch you when you get back!

[kiwigeo]

Hi Martin

Give us a scream when you return! We're in the same city after all!

Neither Stewmac nor LMII can ship aerosols overseas apparently. I haven't seen the LMI catalog, although I visit their and Stewmac's website frequently (and Stairway to Kevin's website so I can tell Craig at Guitarworks the part numbers of the bits I need!).

Catch you when you get back!

Oh yeah thats right..I recall a spiel in their catalogues about shipping dangerous goods.

Roger on the catch up when I get back

Cheers

Martin

[bitingmidge]

Jupiter,

I am not so sure that you'll get away with wax....I have thought about it, but it'll go all gooey on the heavily used bits.

Danish Oil will probably work pretty well though, with a zillion coats buffed in between and left for a week or two to harden (sorry...polymerise) properly.

That's where my thought processes have got ot any way, but lacquer is probably used by the big boys for a reason....like it's easy to keep looking the way it was meant to be.

I am sure you'll find that with a small Supercheap or GMC compressor and a touch-up gun, or even a cheap airbrush for the scale you are working at, you will easily get a better job than a spray can, and will be miles ahead of brushing.

Trouble is, you'll want to start spraying everything!

Cheers,

P

[journeyman Mick]

......Trouble is, you'll want to start spraying everything!

Cheers,

P

And the trouble with that is....?

Mick (who can't remeber the last time he needed to clean a paintbrush )

[RETIRED]

I'm with you Mick!

If it don't come out of a gun,
it don't get done!

Hmmm maybe I should spray that on the wall.

[bitingmidge]

And the trouble with that is....?

Mick (who can't remeber the last time he needed to clean a paintbrush )

Trouble is that you don't ever get time to do anything else....the car needs doing now, then the fridge, oh doesn't the washing machine look shabby...you reckon the cupboard doors would look good in avocado?

Oh these black shoes could be brown in a second....

and on and on and on and on it goes....

That's what I meant by EVERYTHING!!!!


P

[Cliff Rogers]

There used to be a bloke on the Gold Coast that used a spray outfit
to apply SunScreen to semi naked bodies...