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  1. #1
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    Aug 2005
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    Default Attaching a padded back

    I have had a mental picture of a chair I 'd like to build kicking around in the back of my mind for a while. Last night I stumbled across almost exactly the same chair on the internet.

    The only thing I can't figure out is how to attach the padded back to the chair. Anyone got any ideas?

    Brian

  2. #2
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    Durong Qld
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    I saw a similar sort of thing somewhere, and I think the panel has two holes in the top and two in the bottom, the top of the frame has two dowels protruding and the panel is pushed up into them and then just pushed back into place at the bottom, and secured by two screws from underneat into the holes. Hard to explain. hope you understand.donna

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flynnsart View Post
    I saw a similar sort of thing somewhere, and I think the panel has two holes in the top and two in the bottom, the top of the frame has two dowels protruding and the panel is pushed up into them and then just pushed back into place at the bottom, and secured by two screws from underneat into the holes. Hard to explain. hope you understand.donna
    Donna,

    I understand fully. I have been thinking about this for sometime and that was one of the ways I was thinking of. I wasn't too sure how sturdy this will be. I obviously would like a nice tight fit and am worried about being able to achieve it but I am happy to hear that someone else does it this way.

    Another way I thought of was to put a couple of dowels straight through the sides of the back legs into the chair back and then cover the dowel holes with a decorative plug of some sort. This would work but I don't know if I really want to see the plugs.

    Regards,

    Brian

  4. #4
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    Default

    If you are concerned about the strength of the dowels, what about using screws and cutting the heads off?

    On some furniture, the front of the panel is upholstered and fitted with screws through the sides of the insert frame into the chair frame. An upholstered panel is then attached onto the back.

    Chipman

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chipman View Post
    On some furniture, the front of the panel is upholstered and fitted with screws through the sides of the insert frame into the chair frame. An upholstered panel is then attached onto the back.

    Chipman
    OK, I follow that, sounds good. The back panel wouldn't need to be as secure as the front panel. I suppose we attach that with flynnsart's method.

    I had planned on having a slight curve in the back. It would be simpler to have it flat but I don't like the idea of sacraficing design for ease of manufacture.

  6. #6
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Harvey, WA
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    Default

    Initially I thought it was made with an open back that then gets webbed up with Jute web, hessian, some padding, and finished off with your choice of fabric that gets stapled on and finished off with studs or gimp. If your going down this path remember to put some fabric down first as the back of the chair will have to be covered first to hide the webs and hessian. Have the fabric the right way up to be visible from the back.

    On the second look, I think Donna was right.

    If I may try and explain, make the chair frame up with the top rail of the back secured in place by whatever means, make a frame for the upholstered back, remember to allow for the fabric to come around the sides of the back frame, don't make it too tight.

    It would have dowelles coming through the top rail to locate into the upholstered back and also have dowelles through a bottom rail that gets screwed in place with the upholstered back frame.

    Hope this helps.

  7. #7
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    Default

    I'm tossing up between 2 options.

    A. The Donna method seconded by Ali G.

    B. The Chipman method.

    I like Chipman's method. Do it in 2 pieces. Doing the main piece should be easy but I haven't worked out exactly how to put the 2nd piece (the back)on.

    With Donna's method I see myself having to wrestle to get the top dowels into the holes since I want a tight fit so the back doesnt wobble or move when fiished. Maybe I am worrying unnecessarily?

    Here is the way I see it. The first pic is Donna, second Chipman with out the back. (dowel and screw positions are only rough guide at this stage)

  8. #8
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    Default

    The main reaosn I can't work out a simple solution for the Chipman 2nd piece is because I am trying to come up with a solution that would allow me to disassemble it easily if I had to. Maybe this is another unneccesary thing I am worrying about.

  9. #9
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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
    The main reaosn I can't work out a simple solution for the Chipman 2nd piece is because I am trying to come up with a solution that would allow me to disassemble it easily if I had to. Maybe this is another unneccesary thing I am worrying about.

    Arch, What are you covering your furniture with? Cloth, vinyl or leather?

    I am not an expert but I try to observe how others do it.

    If it is fabric, this is how you put the back panel on...

    Cut a panel (3mm mdf for example) about 3mm smaller all the way around than the size you want. Then place some batting on it and then cover it with your material and fix it on from the inside. (very short staples/adhesive) Now place it in position and with a few fine brads, nail it in position through the fabric. Take a needle and carefully lift the fabric over the nail heads and it will be completely invisible. If you ever have to take it out, it is just a matter of prising the back off.

    If you are using vinyl or leather and don't want to have furniture pins showing in the back, and you want it removable, try a modification of Donna's method.. At the top assemble your chair with a groove inside the opening, then the dowels/cut off screws will locate easily at the top in the groove (and the bottom can be screwed in easily from underneath)

    Another method, when making the chair, rebate the opening for the completely uphosltered back push in from the front and then use 4 small brass screws through the edge of the rebate from the back to hold it in.

    Before doing anything, if you haven't already, go visit some furniture shops and see how theirs is done... that is what I always do.

    Chipman

  10. #10
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    Default

    Chipman,

    I am using leather. Thanks for the detailed response. I have been thinking about this all night and I have just had a eureka moment. I think I have a solution that will work well and is very similar to what you were saying.

    Don't ask me why, but I examined all my remote controls phones etc. to see how the battery covers fitted. A couple had 2 lugs at the top which fitted into a small hole and pivoted to snap shut. I will put a couple of lugs on the inside of my back cover and 2 holes in the bottom of the top rail. The lugs will fit into the holes, I will pivot it shut and secure it by a couple of screws up through the bottom of the bottom rail.

    Brian

    PS drawings aren't to scale.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    logan city,queensland
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    Default

    The Donna method is quite ok. With the other method using a seperate outer back panel, before you upholster it, drill 4 holes , one in each corner and use what we call "christmas tree" clips. These are the same plastic clips that are used in a lot of car door trim panels to fasten them onto the metal door skin. Just push them into the holes and then upholster the panel. Drill corresponding holes in the front panel so that the outer panel will marry up and then just press them together and you have a VERY firm fit.
    Neil.

  12. #12
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    Default

    thanks Neil,

    I take it I can get the Christmas tree clips at the local upholstering supplier or do I need to go to an automotive specialist?

  13. #13
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    May 2006
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    logan city,queensland
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    Default

    Have a look in the yellow pages in the Motor Trimmers / Body supplies or Upholstering supplies. You can get a pack of about 20 for about $10 and they are plastic and come in different thicknesses and lengths. If you have problems just go to your local motor trimmer and he should sell you a few no problems, they all use them regularly.
    Neil.

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by neilb View Post
    Have a look in the yellow pages in the Motor Trimmers / Body supplies or Upholstering supplies. You can get a pack of about 20 for about $10 and they are plastic and come in different thicknesses and lengths. If you have problems just go to your local motor trimmer and he should sell you a few no problems, they all use them regularly.
    Neil.
    Thanks again Neil,

    I'll chase them up and have a play with them. Hopefully I will have a completed chair in a month or so to show everyone.

    Brian

  15. #15
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    Default

    Same theory as Nielb, but smaller.

    Look around electronic component suppliers for flush mount printed circuit board clips, these would go into a hole in the upholstry frame about 4mm dia x 10mm deep. These ones are from Jaycar and could be mail ordered if need be.For a 3mm back sheeting, trim the base spreaders back maybe another 1.5mm, press through the panel and seat them, then uphoslter the back panel over them. Plastic dome on outsite of panel should be about .5 to .8 mm protrusion, but with a 3mm panel holes could be counterbored slightly so that they sit flush.

    CAT. NO. HP0774 RRP$5.00CLICK TO ENLARGE

    6.35mm Flush Mount PCB Supports - Pk.25

    These are virtually flush mount on the underside of the chassis.- PCB hole 4mm.- Chassis hole 5.5mm- Chassis thickness 0.8- 1.2mm.- Two heights available.Pack Height25 6.35mm QTY 1+$5.00 4+$4.45 10+$3.95 Enter Quantity

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