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Thread: Danish Oil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    0

    Default Danish Oil

    Hi all,

    I have nearlly completed a TV cabinet made from Red Cedar and I'm leaning towards finishing it in Rustins Danish Oil.I have only used this oil once on a bread board made of Camphor laurel which came up a treat and I wanted to run my method past you all to see if I'm doing it right. I applied the first coat lightly rubbing with 600 wet and dry to form a slurry which I let sit for a couple of minutes and then wiped off the excess. I did this for another 2 coats and then the last two coats I just rubbed the oil in with a cloth. In between all the coats I cut the surface back with 0000 steel wool. When the last coat was completely dry I buffed the article on the lathe. Will I be able to apply this method to the cabinet or is there a better way to go about it, being such a large area? Any comments would be appreciated.

    Cheers,

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Warwick,QLD
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Not sure how your gonna fit a TV cabinet on a lathe!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Mmm could've worded that sentence a bit better

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Parkside - South Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    479

    Default

    I have used Rustins Danish Oil for some time on bandsaw boxes and your method of application seems to be reasonable. I wouldn't generally do the wet dry slurry step but it would depend on if your grain is open or not and needs to be sealed. I would look at a sanding sealer but I don't know if it would be much different to what you are doing.

    The steel wool is a good idea to cut it back and get a good even coverage.

    All that aside when I was at the last working with wood show I sat in on a demo by Neil Scobie and he said one of his finishing products is Kunos (CWS Store - Kunos Natural Oils | Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies). After the demo I went over to Jim and Irene at CWS and was surprised to see the cost is similar to Rustins. As I have plenty of Rustins I haven't tried it yet but it will be the next on my list (if all fails I will go back to Rustins). My view was that Neil Scobie does far better work than I will ever do and if it is as good as he said I will be willing to take the chance. He also uses it on larger projects similar to yours.

    Cheers

    Stinky
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Hi Stinky,
    Thanks for the info. I had heard of Neil using Kunos Oil but like you I have yet to try it.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    93

    Default

    I've just started using the Kunos in place of Rustins Danish Oil (hey, a change is as good as a rest).

    Just be aware that Kunos make a thinners for use with their oils, and I'm inclined to use this to thin down the first coat if you are looking to wet sand with 600 grit for grain filling. Used neat the Kunos is quite gluggy, but diluting it down 1:1 with their thinners makes it more like the consistency of Rustins Danish Oil. Perfect for a good flood coat and some wet sanding. After that I'd apply a couple of further coats of the Kunos undiluted.

    That's just MHO of course, I'd be interested to know what other Kunos users do.
    Last edited by Mr Brush; 14th May 2011 at 11:28 AM. Reason: finger trouble

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