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Thread: Architrave Light Switch
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26th May 2007, 08:54 AM #16
You need to understand that in older installations the neutral was looped at the switch in order to reduce the amount of cable used. These days the active supply is run around the ceiling, with a switch wire run down to the switch (most of the time). This way the loop is made at the light fitting.
Were the 2 black wires joined together? Were the 2 reds joined? These 2 questions need to answered before any qualified electrician can decide on the necessary action.
If the 2 blacks were joined and the 2 reds not, then the 2 blacks would go in the loop and the 2 reds would be 1 each in common and 1.
REMEMBER......All connections should be made with the MAIN switch turned OFF. If the switch will not work then someone suitably qualified will need to test the circuit out for proper connection.Stop destroying our planet!...........It's where i keep all my Stuff.
Acting my shoe size since 1979
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26th May 2007, 01:19 PM #17
Thanks for clearing that up. I appreciate the reluctance to part with this info. I'm from the UK and grew up watching my dad do all of this sort of stuff. However if you guys want a real scare then look up some of the UK DIY websites Thanks again
Help ma boab, the bairns goat it awe wrang!
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27th May 2007, 05:33 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- Location
- the 'burn
- Posts
- 118
you think the DIY might be bad, i've seen the "professional" stuff. At work we had test equipment sent over from the UK, with plug tops that needed to be changed to the OZ standard. It was shocking, strands were missing from the flex, the terminals were screwed down direct onto the insulation, and the ends of the cable weren't crimped.
dodgy, dodgy dodgy.
And some of the engineers on here wonder why they can't do work themselves.
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