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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    Thanks Beardy.
    Mine is going onto a paved area so I don’t want to dig in footings hence the adjustable footings.
    Rough retail costs of 150 x 45 H3 LVL timber itself (without hangers, adjustable feet etc etc) is around $1800. Boxspan steel is about $150 dearer.
    I’ll check Onesteel Duragal - thanks for the link.

    Just checked Onesteel Duragal 150x50 x 2.0mm - works out about $2780.
    Last edited by Lappa; 16th August 2021 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Additional info

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    78
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Just to satisfy my curiosity, if the footings are not dug in and sitting on pavers how is the deck anchored down?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    By the weight of my outdoor table

    its freestanding so it does it need to be tied down?

    26094C06-C252-4E8B-A9F3-1C044A4DDEBD.jpg3336DAF5-F225-41A9-B9D2-21F85B1C4E5B.jpg

    There brick wall on three sides I could fasten it to if that’s required.
    Last edited by Lappa; 16th August 2021 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Pictures added

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    78
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Table was what I was thinking too. While the weight may hold its position relative to house, one of the thoughts running around in my somewhat empty head, with a deck out in the weather, timber movement/warping or slight soil movement you could end up with some footings losing contact with the ground and subsequent bounce.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    78
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Just a thought, I know you don’t want to dig your footings in, but maybe screw-in footings could be helpful as you would only need to lift a paver to install. I believe they are available from a big green shed.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by apple8 View Post
    Table was what I was thinking too. While the weight may hold its position relative to house, one of the thoughts running around in my somewhat empty head, with a deck out in the weather, timber movement/warping or slight soil movement you could end up with some footings losing contact with the ground and subsequent bounce.
    I’m using screw adjustable bearer supports, mainly because I can’t guarantee the pavers are all exactly at the same height. Any movement (shouldn’t be as the pavers have been down for 35 years) can be adjusted out later.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default Decking top boards

    I’m a timber guy but SWMBO wants me to look at composite boards so we don’t have to re-coat them yearly like you do with timber decking.
    I would be interested to hear from those who actually have it or have installed it as to your opinion. Most samples I have are 23mm thick so I have to decide before building the frame. Longevity, wear/scratches, slipperiness, installation, etc
    Also opinions on the the solid vs the capped types.
    Thanks

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    75
    Posts
    832

    Default

    If it is going to get summer sun for any length of time ( faces north?) it will expand and contract a fair bit, also how do you like your feet done, rare, medium rare or well done, nigh impossible to walk on in bare feet in summer. UV has a long term affect on it too despite what the manufacturer states and the colours fade fairly quickly.
    In summer they sag between the joists (3mm to 5mm), winter very minimal.
    Easy to keep clean, mild detergent and soft broom then hose off.
    All the above is based on my observations of it and personally, I wouldn't use it.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    279

    Default

    If you're going to use composite decking and you want to run it along the 6.5 metre length you'd need a control joint in the middle due to its propensity to 'grow' in length. Like Ray I'm not a big fan.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    If it is going to get summer sun for any length of time ( faces north?) it will expand and contract a fair bit, also how do you like your feet done, rare, medium rare or well done, nigh impossible to walk on in bare feet in summer. UV has a long term affect on it too despite what the manufacturer states and the colours fade fairly quickly.
    In summer they sag between the joists (3mm to 5mm), winter very minimal.
    Easy to keep clean, mild detergent and soft broom then hose off.
    All the above is based on my observations of it and personally, I wouldn't use it.
    +1 what he says, neighbor has 10mtr run and it grows as the sun comes up and shrinks as the sun goes down

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    Thanks all.
    Mine faces east and is under a pergola roofed with tinted SunTuff which goes out 1.5m past where the edge of the deck will be.
    It may get direct early sun in summer on the front of it but only for a very short time. If I run it the way I am thinking, the longest run will be 3.5m. If I run it the other way (6.3m) it will have to have a divide in the centre as the longest length in most is 5.4m.
    Must admit, I’m not a fan but I need to look at options.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Don’t use composite boards, theyre crap.
    absorb heat like a sponge takes water, they buckle incredibly, and they are extremely slippery. The only thing I would ever recommend or use them for is vertical screening. Merbau or spotted gum, the maintenance is nothing.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default Decking timber?.

    Which is better or are they much of a muchness. Blackbutt or Spotted Gum?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Spotted gum by a mile

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default More to consider

    I was speaking to a relative in Melbourne whose husband is a developer/builder. He mentioned that he has used aluminium subframe for decks and it was easy to assemble, strong and light.

    ClickDeck Framing Productsn

    it’s about $400 dearer than building with 190x45 H3 timber (including screws, hangers, freight etc), but price includes all fittings etc and includes adjustable posts which hasn’t been taken into account re the timber built price so the price difference becomes closer.
    Has anyone used aluminium or has thoughts re it’s use?

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