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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    26

    Default Canberra Deck, photos up - help need with nails

    Hi all,

    have been reading this forum for a while now but this is my first post.

    Started building our first deck - what a great help this site has been. I have have posted up two photos which are a couple of weeks old ( I will post up more soon ). As you can see it's going to be a low lying deck.

    I am actually almost ready to lay the decking ( Merbau ).

    I am hoping that some people might be able to post up some photos of their deck using SS screws as fastensers - I have been looking at nails and screws but I really really don't like the look of screws ( I think the head is too big ). Hoping to see some photos of finshed decks.

    Otherwise what nails would be best to use? Titadecks? I have a friend who used nails out of a nail-gun ( cause they like the look of them) pre-drilled and hammed in by hand - what do you think of this option?
    Last edited by ubeaut; 4th March 2008 at 05:06 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Nicholls ACT
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Why not hire the nail gun?
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

    Top 10 reasons I procrastinate
    1......

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pusser View Post
    Why not hire the nail gun?
    I have heard bad things about nail guns - I would perfer to pre-drill as well, I don't mind taking my time.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Craigieburn Victoria
    Posts
    6

    Default I would use nails and no nail gun!

    I have put down several decks in the life of my present home and have used nails each time. So far have shyed away from nail guns for decking. Pre drill and nail is my opinion, does not take long if you have a couple of people. Finish looks great, well thats my opinion. Use a string line to ensure that the nails are in a straight line. Hope this helps.

    regards

    colind123

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    26

    Default

    anyone recommend what type of nail going into TP?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Northen Rivers NSW
    Age
    58
    Posts
    758

    Default

    Pre drill and then use galvanised dome headed twist nails, sometimes called 'Timberlok' twist nails.

    Like this;

    Attachment 66985

    Pre drill the shank size through the timber, drive them home level with the surface of the board. They WONT pull out .


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default Screws or nails?? What a repeatative question

    Do which ever you prefer but as to the photo's i will leave it to you to tell me which ones are screwed as i think up close screws loo better but overall they aren't noticed...









    The top one is nailed with 65mm titadeck galv nails the rest are screwed with stainless 50mm type 17 sq drive counter sunk screws ... Not trim heads


    cheers utemad

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Northen Rivers NSW
    Age
    58
    Posts
    758

    Default

    I am interested in the reasons for screwing any deck, other than timber to steel .


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    140

    Default

    I use a MAX CN565 coil nailer it has has driven thousands of nails never had a problem with it what are the bad thing youv'e heard about nail guns, most likely operater missuse

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    I use a MAX CN565 coil nailer it has has driven thousands of nails never had a problem with it what are the bad thing youv'e heard about nail guns, most likely operater missuse
    Without a dobut

  11. #11
    Dermot Guest

    Default

    I've been using Deklok hidden fasteners for the last couple of years with great results- no visible nails, standard gaps, almost impossible for boards to lift. The new version (I think they're called stealth) are available through Tymlock in queanbeyan

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dazzler View Post
    I am interested in the reasons for screwing any deck, other than timber to steel .
    Better appearance
    No popped nails
    boards don't lift up off the joists
    Can remove boards for access to plumbing etc below deck or if you damage one
    Flush or sunken finish versus the raised head or a dome nail

    Cheers utemad

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dermot View Post
    I've been using Deklok hidden fasteners for the last couple of years with great results- no visible nails, standard gaps, almost impossible for boards to lift. The new version (I think they're called stealth) are available through Tymlock in queanbeyan

    What do you do in regards to the variation in board width which is up to 3mm... Are you doing this for yourself or customers? If for customers how do you compete in a market that is flooded with bodgy trades using the fastenings

    cheers utemad

  14. #14
    Dermot Guest

    Default

    These are jobs for customers- to whom it has been explained that the finer finish entails extra work. I haven't had too much trouble with varying timber widths and if I did I would have picked it up by measuring and adjusting every 5 or 6 lines -leaving one end not as fully embedded as the other- though this hasn't been necessary so far using TP, merbau,mixed reds or recycled black butt.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dermot View Post
    These are jobs for customers- to whom it has been explained that the finer finish entails extra work. I haven't had too much trouble with varying timber widths and if I did I would have picked it up by measuring and adjusting every 5 or 6 lines -leaving one end not as fully embedded as the other- though this hasn't been necessary so far using TP, merbau,mixed reds or recycled black butt.

    Just curious ...would a treated pine customer go for the hidden deck fixings over say hardwood and some sort of top fixing at a similar end cost? Seeing as treated decking is a base level product for a base level consumer

    The board width i was referring to is when the deck is wide with end to end joins and discrepency in board width..


    cheers utemad

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