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3rd November 2007, 07:12 PM #1Novice
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Necessary to do the square set join if using cornice?
The title says it all: For my bathroom reno do I need to paper tape the join between walls and ceiling if I am covering it up with cornice? Is the joining still required for stability? thanks
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3rd November 2007, 07:38 PM #2quality + reliability
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4th November 2007, 07:09 AM #3Novice
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- Oct 2007
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thanks. that makes the job easier.
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4th November 2007, 10:39 AM #4Intermediate Member
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- Aug 2007
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- ACT
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I've just help a mate with building an internal wall. All good until the cornice mitre cuts. Set you mitre box with guides for both internal and external cuts to ensure you get that perfect join. We ended up with a nice cut using a tenon saw.
It took a couple of test runs on the old cornice until we got it right. For any that are not mitred nicely - nothing beats spakfilla.
cheers
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4th November 2007, 04:10 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I use my drop saw. Or just freehand by eye.
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4th November 2007, 08:16 PM #6Intermediate Member
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- Aug 2007
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- ACT
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But John...you're a builder and do it for a living. Some of this is perplexing for us novices.
Good fun though learning, and I certainly get a sense of satisfaction from acomplishing the task.
cheers
Dave
BTW, I've read a lot of your posts old mate and have learnt alot from them!! cheers
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5th November 2007, 12:52 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for that.
It's not that hard to do a standard 90mm cove freehand.
Mark the length on the bottom of the cove.
Transfer the mark to the top with a square.
Measure in 90mm, and put a mark.
Hold the cornice in a position as if it were in a mitre box.
With your eye behind the saw, line up your hand saw blade with the two marks, and cut.
OK, It does need a reasonable sense of judgment, but there's always plenty of fresh bog left over when you're installing it, to fill up any gaps.
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5th November 2007, 03:26 PM #8
I've found it's easier to simply cut two lengths to size for opposite walls and fit them first, then simply cope both ends of the remaining sections to suit. This also avoids any problem with the ends slipping out of alignment, leaving "stepped corners" and, as has already been said, there's always plenty of bog.
The only time I bother with mitres is "outside corners" (eg. around the top of a built-in robe) where there isn't any other choice...
- Andy Mc
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5th November 2007, 05:22 PM #9quality + reliability
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- Jul 2006
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- Melbourne
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- 675
I guess everyone has there own method to put up cornice. From a tradies point of view there is no substitute for having well fitting mitres cut in a mitre box. Any mitres that require a heap of bog to fill up end up looking crappy if not done correctly.
Cutting cornice is really very very simple if you just follow some basic principles. I'm not going to re-type them here the link is in my post above.
Pawn head made a good comment above regarding free hand cutting (IF YOU MUST). Keeping the cornice held in place as it would be on the ceiling with the ceiling side sitting on the floor. The important thing is to keep the saw upright.
CheersGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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