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  1. #1
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    Default Laying boards over joists - i have a problem....

    Hello,
    I’ve got a problem. I’m having some 150mm old baltic floorboards layed on Wednesday. Over the weekend I pulled up all the chipboard and discovered that my joists run in the same direction as I’m about to have the boards layed.
    Whats the best fix to this problem? Am I able to fit blocks between the joists so that the boards have something to be attached to? I’m running out of time any can’t really afford to get the room(s) restumped.
    Thanks for your help!!
    Josh.

  2. #2
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    only options I see for you...

    1. change the direction you wish to lay the boards
    2. put yellow tongue back down and fix to this
    3. change the sub floor

    The option you propose would work, but you would lkikely get a spungey feeling floor. Probably not what you are after

  3. #3
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    Actually, the joists don't run in the same direction you are about to have your boards layed!

    I'm sure the floor guy will work that out quickly enough!

    Cheers,

    P

  4. #4
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    Is this for the whole house ?
    You can block between the joists but obviously the blocks need to be spaced every 450mm (same as joists) and well nailed. You could also use triple grips for added peace of mind. Much cheaper to change flooring direction if at all possible.
    Cheers
    Wayne

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys for your advice. I thought I should just have an idea of my options before I see the board guy later in the week. Problem is that we are on a strict timeline as well as the floor board guy being very busy.
    How long (and I guess how much) should it cost to change the joists? Area is only about 10-15m2.
    Btw bitingmidge, the joists do run in the same direction as I’m about to have the boards layed, that’s the problem.

  6. #6
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    As Wayne just said, the only solution is to put noggins between the floor joists. Or change the flooring direction to suit the joists.

    Don't expect your floor man to put noggins in unless he charges you lots and lots lots more coz its a real prawn of a job.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #7
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    Hello again.
    Thanks for your replies.
    It’s a bit hard to describe. The house is a single fronted Victorian with the hallway down the right, bedrooms off it to the left and then a large open plan lounge/kitchen/dining at the back of the house. This large room 40 metres sq. The boards in the bedrooms, the hallway and about half the back room run from front to back. About 20-25 m sq of the back room will have the boards running the correct way. My problem is how it will look if we change the direction of the boards half way into the back room, bearing in mind that most of the back of the house will have a kitchen installed over the top of it.
    Have any of you seen boards installed like this before?
    Thanks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by demon_josh_au
    Hello again.
    My problem is how it will look if we change the direction of the boards half way into the back room, bearing in mind that most of the back of the house will have a kitchen installed over the top of it.
    Have any of you seen boards installed like this before?
    Thanks.
    Had exactly the same problem , ran the new flooring at RT angles Very few if any notice. but leave an expansion gap , I went for about 1/4" to 3/8" filled with brown gap sealer, dimple it down a bit , slightly below the floor level
    Rgds
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  9. #9
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    I'm currently renovating an old Victorian house for myself and the polished floorboards run at right angles in different rooms (with the change occurring in the doorways.)

    I'm fussy about appearance but I'm happy with the floors the way they are
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  10. #10
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    Thanks for your replies guys.

    We've decided on the noggin solution for about 1.5 metres so the boards flow into the kitchen, then in the kitchen they'll run across the room. The cost shouldn't blow out too much, just the cost of the extra wood.

    Thanks everyone for your advice. I'll post some pics when its done. I'm sure it will look great (better than crappy carpet and green lino anyway!!

    Josh.

  11. #11
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    I'm probably erring on the side of caution but the proposition of noggins worries me a little in so far as it bypasses the bearer, joist and flooring at right angles philosphy (load transfer) - the noggin connection will be the sole support for the majority of floor boards. I would be concerned about the method of connecting the noggins to the joists, a couple of skew nails would give me sleepless nights. If it had to be done then I would be looking at using one of the Pryda products at least.

  12. #12
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    You can stagger the noggins along a straight line just like in a wall.
    That way the nails go right through the floor joists into the noggin.
    Properly done its much stronger than using those brackets you like.
    Done a few floors like that with never a problem.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    You can stagger the noggins along a straight line just like in a wall.
    That way the nails go right through the floor joists into the noggin.
    Properly done its much stronger than using those brackets you like.
    Done a few floors like that with never a problem.
    That's exactly what I did in my attic. I used 2 x 4" nails in jarrah noggins - had to drill the all of course. For extra strength about every 4th noggin I used a single 100 mm long x 10 mm diam hex slotted head wood screw in place of the nails. I weigh 115kg and am able to stand on any one noggin - they're not moving nowhere!

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