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Thread: Mitres are like Golf
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9th October 2005, 11:45 PM #1
Mitres are like Golf
ARRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH,
I HATE doing mitres.
After spending most of the weekend fitting skirting boards, i have come to the conclusion that doing outside mitres is like playing golf.
ie: you get it right once and then start to dream that you can do it as well as the pro's all the time.
Talk about being bitten on the a*rse.
Brand new SCMS, cheap mitre handsaw, its all in the angles........luckily my supply of skirting lasted longer than my patience.
Needless to say, no more gaps + i will be on better than first name terms by the time its all done.
Scribing internal corners in a breeze, BUT, with an out of square house, outside mitres are ........well you know.
Have i said that i hate outside mitres yet!!!!!if you always do as you have always done, you will always get what you have always got
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9th October 2005, 11:56 PM #2
What you need is an angle divider like a Stanley 30 (See attached image) or the modern equivalent from Nobex which is actually better.
Alternatively, learn to disect an angle using a bevel guage and a compass.
1. Measure the angle using the bevel guage.
2. Draw the angle using the bevel guage.
3. Bisect the angle using a compass.
4. Use new angle to cut material.
Yes there is still some skill involved but it is not insurmountable for someone of reasonable intelligence.
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10th October 2005, 08:53 AM #3
I didnt mitre any outside corners on my skirts - I cut them square them shaped the upper, routed section with a jigsaw, fitted with a ground down metal sutting blade. Worked fine, especially when none of the walls were square ot each other.
__________
THe only thing I had to really think through was which way was best to have the "exposed" join. These were painted of course - stained would be a different ballgameSteve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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10th October 2005, 09:30 AM #4
All you need is two pieces of shortish scrap material. Cut them both on a 45, then keep adjusting the angle on the scms until it's right, then cut your mitre's on the skirting. Easy....
I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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10th October 2005, 09:52 AM #5
Cut them a bit sharper than 45 then at least they will be closed at the front. A bit of bog hides the gap if there is one. Nothing worse than an open mitre.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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10th October 2005, 10:34 AM #6
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
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- Melbourne
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Originally Posted by maglite
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10th October 2005, 10:40 AM #7
You can adjust them with a plane and a shooting board. It might take a bit longer but you will get good results.
PS I am a Darksider- Wood Borer
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10th October 2005, 11:41 AM #8
Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Goldfields
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- 33
I am about to start the same job today.. I know none of my external corners will be straight so I am going to take on board some of the tips here..
Thanks guys..
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10th October 2005, 11:55 AM #9
To adjust a mitre less than or greater than 45 degrees, it can be better to use a small piece of scrap between your workpiece and the end of the SCMS fence to fine tune the fit, rather than altering the saw's mitre setting a poofteenth each try.
Cheers.............Sean, trying with all my mitre
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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1st April 2006, 10:11 AM #10
I resurrect this thread to tell a funny but true story of difficult skirting-board fitting.
A builder Mate was called to the home of the mother of his daughter's best friend - love jobs, and favours for friends. You know what I mean?
Anyway, the elderly mother (an Italian widow) had a bad experience with termites and wanted never to face that again.
HINGED skirting throughout the giant of a house and inside all cupboards is what she wanted.
Now if you think about this you quickly realize mitred corners won't work, and the ornate 200mm skirting HAD to be retained.
My Mate could be found, with his head in his hands, at the pub bar every night for the next month.
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1st April 2006, 07:30 PM #11
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- Aug 2003
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Thats easy.
Put corner blocks in and just square cut the skirt.
Al
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1st April 2006, 08:06 PM #12
I tend to start with the mathematical approach, per Mark's post, then with a trial cut on some scrap, adjust using the empirical method that Martrix refers to.
It can be time consuming, but actually not that hard.
What can make like difficult are out-of-plumb vertical surfaces onto which the mitre-cut pieces such as beading are going to be fitted. Well, when it comes to furniture, there's only me to blame for that
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1st April 2006, 11:29 PM #13
Lay a piece of the skirt against the wall and allow it to go past the corner a couple of inches. Draw a pencil line on the floor against the bottom of the skirt. Lay a second piece against the second wall and mark with a pencil along its base. The angle needed will become obvious by the marks on the floor. Does this help?
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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2nd April 2006, 11:18 PM #14
Things went well ths end.
Mr. Selleys is wonderfulif you always do as you have always done, you will always get what you have always got
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4th April 2006, 11:31 AM #15
Same as 'powderpost' - plus mark the skirt at floor level where the lines intersect. Mark the inside top of the skirt at the wall corner.
Draw a line up the skirt from the bottom mark & then draw across from the top mark to give you the cut line. Usually on exys the problem is a curved surface where the plasterer has built out the corner. Make sure the skirt is pushed fully back before marking the floor.Peter Clarkson
www.ausdesign.com.au
This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.
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