Need to replace window sills

[Scottfred]

Hi everyone,
First time in here and I'm hoping I can get some advice. A couple of window sills in our house were eaten out by termites (nooooooo!) and as such need replacing. They're the bottom sills that need replacing and also a skirting board section around the window, (by the way, forgive my ignorance with terminology, while I'm an enthusiastic home handyman, I often refer to things as 'thingys' or 'whatsits').
I'm wondering what the best approach would be, the damaged areas cover around a third of the sections affected so I'm assuming replacing those pieces is the way to go. So, what is the best way to remove the old pieces and what should I be looking out for when replacing them, that is, measurements, adhesion etc. As this will be my first repair of this sort I thought it wise to get the right advise before starting. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
PS. The termite problemette has been sorted out!

[ozwinner]

Welcome Fred.
You may find it cheaper to replace the whole window.

Al

[Scottfred]

Welcome Fred.
You may find it cheaper to replace the whole window.

Al

Really? Like the whole shebang huh? :eek: I thought replacing a sill wouldn't be too costly but I'm no expert! Does it make a difference that it's the inside sill I'm talking about?

[ozwinner]

Some piccys would really help.

Al

[Scottfred]

Now that's an idea! It may take me a day or two cos my camera's busted so I have to borrow the work one but I will get some and upload them.

[Scottfred]

Here are some pics...

[Ekim]

Providing the termite probl<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[IMG] /><st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName> has been fixed, you may consider using a filling compound such as Fuller’s Building Filler (Bunnings/Mitre 10 – about $28.00 for a one litre can). The product comes in a two pack that you mix together and apply with a spatula. Reading from the can:
<FONT face=[/IMG]<font size=" /><st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName> has been fixed, you may consider using a filling compound such as Fuller’s Building Filler (Bunnings/Mitre 10 – about $28.00 for a one litre can). The product comes in a two pack that you mix together and apply with a spatula. Reading from the can:
<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Interior/exterior
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Ideal for filling timber architraves, skirting boards, window frames, doors etc.
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Sets rock hard in 30 minutes
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Will not shrink or slump
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Easy to sand and paint
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Can be planed, drilled, nailed or screwed.

<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>A couple of hints – firstly, make a few disposal spatulas from dowel. Cut the dowel into 15-20 cm lengths and splade each end with a <st1ity>Stanley</st1ity> knife (tidy up with sandpaper). Secondly, with deep crevasses, apply the product in layers i.e. don’t try to fill the gap in one hit. The product starts to harden within minutes, so don’t muck around. Get the first layer in as best you can, wait 30 minutes then apply a second layer etc. Sand the final layer, apply an oil based sealer/undercoat, wait a few days then over-coat with oil based or acrylic paint
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>
<O
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Clean up your mixing tool and spatulas with methylated spirits.
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>
<O</O
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>I have used the product extensively to fix dry rot probl<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>s.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the glass is mounted in an aluminium frame, bolted to what's basically just rabbetted boards?

If they'd been moulded timber frames, Al was right... but if I'm correct you should be able to simply replace 'em with Kapur (for the sill), Meranti (for the jambs) or whatever's in general use in your neck of the woods and either rebate 'em yourself or laminate two boards of different widths. With the latter the lamination joint could be hidden by the architraves (skirting boards) on the inside, but you'd need to use a bloody good waterproof glue otherwise water's likely seep into the joint at the rabbet over time...

[Scottfred]

Thanks heaps! Those solutions sound like just the ticket. I'm thinking the Filler will be ideal for the smaller areas and replacement boards for the huge one. Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend!

Again, thanks hugely for your help!