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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    7,769

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    So do you believe what you say?
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    and did you give yourself a greenie?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    7,769

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    or a reddie?
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
    Posts
    1,598

    Default

    Midge

    Before I flung myself headlong into the 'lets buy some expensive tools' tango, I used the handsaw for lots of jobs - about all I had.

    I'd think that if you bodgy up a long fence, buy a new, thin blade for it and have good support for the work, you won't have a problem with a grunty 9" saw. Very tedious OK, but neither that difficult nor energetic.

    If you wander off line occasionally, theres always the jointer.

    Good luck
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    5,415

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    So do you believe what you say?
    There's the trouble, if I'd been talking to myself I would have had doubts, but it' s on the interent so it must be true!
    :eek:

    I couldn't give myself a greenie, because I have to spread some love around first apparently.

    Bodgy,

    I know where you're coming from, only because of my very skinny arms, I would have used a 7" saw in two cuts!

    I particularly want to give the bandsaw a go, because of all the stuff I've read (on the internet!!) about how terrific they are for this sort of work, but if it doesn't work out, I'll go the table saw and 3m lengths I think.

    I have a couple of strip boats to do in the future and will have to get used to the idea of ripping long lengths eventually.

    I'm not sure about feeding a 6m or even a 3m length of 10 x 25 across the jointer.... that will take some careful support as well I think. I'm more inclined to take the time to get the cut right, then use the thicknesser... any twist will clamp/glue out anyway.

    I'll report back whatever.

    Who knows, I may end up having something clever to say to myself!

    cheers,

    P

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon USA
    Posts
    493

    Default

    Midge...not that you probably haven't thought of this, and not knowing if this is a possibility for you, but I have taken large timbers in the past to a local sawmill and had them process them for me.

    It was much less stress on me and the machines I own and they are set up for it.

    Take care, Mike

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    5,415

    Default

    Well I piked.

    I took Barnsey's advice and did it the way I always have: on the TS.

    Which begs the question: why did I ask the question? Well it's just that I read too much, and there are lots of articles out there which allude to the fact that the bandsaw is the best tool for the job. NONSENSE!!

    I bought a new Freud thin kerf ripping blade ($60) and since I planned the workshop round doing exactly this sort of stuff, had no problem at all.

    I simply clamped "guides" on my workbench and router table which are built at table saw height, chucked the cars out, and went for it. No fuss, no drama.

    The additional guides were definitely worth doing - I haven't done that before, and it made handling a breeze, and I hate to be so repetitive about a product I don't have shares in, but the Grrr-rippers also were worth their weight in Ggggold once the size of the plank got down a bit.

    The deepest cut yesterday was 75 mm in Surian Cedar, and that was no problem, the oregon ended up at 4m lengths and 50mm cuts were like a hot knife through butter.

    As I said, I wonder why I even contemplated using the bandsaw, I won't do it again unless I have more than 80mm deep cuts!

    The pic shows a smaller plank posing (about 3m long) but it's easy to see how a 6 works. Oh I also popped a roller just before the edge of the router (outfeed) table to make sure nothing caught on the way through.

    cheers, and thanks for all the input,

    P

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    61
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge
    Well I piked.

    I took Barnsey's advice and did it the way I always have: on the TS.

    Which begs the question: why did I ask the question? Well it's just that I read too much, and there are lots of articles out there which allude to the fact that the bandsaw is the best tool for the job. NONSENSE!!

    I bought a new Freud thin kerf ripping blade ($60) and since I planned the workshop round doing exactly this sort of stuff, had no problem at all.
    I didn't get involved in this one, but I have to agree with the use of the TS. It's a straight-forward exercise, especially with decent in-feed/out-feed tables. I routinely rip up to 100mm thick with the 12" blade.
    Cheers,
    Craig

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    54
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hey sunshine,

    I like your workshop (a lot of JETs), maybe I should check it out one day.

    So now you can cut the wood to length a bit easier.

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