How many coats of Danish Oil?

[Christos]

So far this has been enjoyable to read.

[Dengue]

hi Drillit, can you please advise the benefit of applying polyurethane as you recommend over the top of 3 coats of Wattyl Scandinavian Teak Oil?

At this stage I can't see the point. Surely a coat of Traditional Wax will suffice for a mirror frame, and preserve the beautiful natural look that it has after the oiling.

[Dengue]

Well, the EEE Ultra Shine and the Traditional Wax arrived from Carbatec this morning, $50 including $12 freight.

On my frame I have rubbed in 3 coats of Wattyl Teak ( Scandinavian) Oil with steel wool, and a final coat by rag, and have let it dry for 3 days. Looks and feels beautiful, so silky soft and smooth.

Can anyone please advise how to apply the EEE and the Trad Wax on this surface, with steel wool again or with a rag?

[LGS]

Hi Jill,

Just use clean, soft cotton cloth for both.

Regards,

Rob

[Dengue]

Thanks Rob, will do. How long does it take the Trad Wax to dry, and how many coats should I apply?

[LGS]

Hi Jill,

I usually leave the EEE cream on for about 5 minutes, wipe off and apply the Trad wax. I give it about 5-10 minutes and wipe it off. I use one or two coats at most. But see how it looks in your eyes and then add another coat if you think it's necessary.

Regards.

Rob

[soundman]

There is realy no advantage to leaving the EEE on for any period of time, give the stuff a good brisk rub and wipe it off.

It may be worthwhile waiting a little to allow the solvent to evaporate after the EEE is wiped off.

How quickly trad wax takes to thicken will depend on how hot and humid things are and how vigorous you rub.

I tend to rub the stuff while it is fresh and wipe off & buff before it gets tacky.....a lot less work that way.

cheers

[Dengue]

Well, I applied the U-Beaut EEE Ultra cutting compound and wiped it off, then applied a coat of U-BeautTraditional Wax and wiped it off..

To be honest, I was a bit disappointed with the result. I was expecting something as clear and as smooth as what I ended up with after three coats of Wattyl "Scandinavian" Teak Oil rubbed on with steel wool. Mind you, the final waxed finish is far superior to Danish Oil finishes I have used in the past.

The final finish, although smooth, had a definite waxy feeling about it, but that seems to be disappearing, presumably as the wax dries and hardens with time.

The final finish is a nice uniform, beautifully figured piece of silky oak that should stay in the family for a long time. It has a faint satin finish, but the grain shows beautifully. The interesting thing is that the timber is now a uniform colour all around the frame, with different grain patterns on some sides.

I will definitely be doing this again, and may thanks to Rob(LGS) for introducing this finish to us on the forum. Enjoy the final photos shown below.

[Dengue]

Here are some pics of the final assembly, and the finish 24 hours later.

The mirror was 1200 x 350 x 5mm, and the total frame weighed just on 7kg, so needed some strong joints ( done) and hanging brackets and wire.

The finish is really beautiful, the natural timber grain is well highlighted, and it doesn't look at all "plastic", although it does feel as smooth as plastic, probably smoother My family members who have felt the timber cannot believe that there is no varnish, poly or paint on the finish, just oil and a single coat of wax.

One little granddaughter, and her Mum, are very happy with it

Have posted a number of pics in the hope that you can see the grain and the overall colour.

[Mr Brush]

Jill - very nice job indeed.

I've learned a lot from reading this thread, and will definitely give the Wattyl product a go (assuming I can find some....)

The back of the frame even shows your picture framing expertise Very neat

[Dengue]

Hi Mr B, thanks for your comments, but full credit goes to Rob (LGS) and the others who guided me through each step. I have even gone out and got some more silky oak to make some picture frames, this was so successful.

The back of the frame even shows your picture framing expertise

Ahhh... I can't take any the credit here, although I did the turnbuttons holding the foamcore backing in place I have met a friendly picture framer who is glad to help DIYers, provided I mention her name. She is Julie Pollock at Destination Frames in Townsville, lovely person, been in the game nearly 40 years. I have been looking at some of her work, wow!! She lost practically everything in the Storm Financial / Commonwealth Bank debacle, and is trying to start up her business again

[LGS]

An excellent job, Jill. I'm glad you like the technique.

Regards,

Rob

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

beautiful job, Jill.

You gotta be proud of that!

I usually leave the EEE cream on for about 5 minutes, wipe off and apply the Trad wax. I give it about 5-10 minutes and wipe it off.

???

Sorry mate, but this has me confused.

EEE is basically just Tripoli powder in a wax medium. Hence Neil's advisory to do a test piece if using other, non-wax finihes over the top.

It doesn't do anything if "left on the piece;" apart, perhaps, from giving the wax (or some other additive Neil has snuck in to the mix) time to soak into the grain. Instead, it needs to be constantly buffed/rubbed/whatever, so that it breaks down and acts as a very,very fine sanding agent. A cut'n'polish as it were.

The more it's buffed, the finer the particles break down and the finer the end polish.

Which is also why, after application, it's supposed to be removed as much as possible before applying a finish. As long as wiping it down with a rag shows any "colour" coming off, the removal ain't finished.

(Sorry. Don't mean to sound lecturing or pedantic... but it is what it is and any finishing product goes on "better & easier" once you understand how it works. )

edit: Never mind. I think that perhaps you meant the Trad Wax, not the EEE? Either way, I'll let the above stay... I need something to boost my post count.

[LGS]

Uhhhh....Uhhhh ...huh?