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  1. #1
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    Nov 2011
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    Wingham
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    30
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    Default Aust red cedar lacquer.

    I'm currently building a hall stand/hutch for my year 12 major.
    My teacher has advised me to spray, now det generally only use some generic nitro-cell which gives an average finish.

    Would anyone be able to advise on a good quality lacquer that is suitable for spraying and is reasonably hard wearing.

    just a cad of my project
    Last edited by simonflan; 19th November 2011 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Picture

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Hi Simon
    I wouldn't advise spraying. I have just finished an Aust Red Cedar desk and booksheves for a client. I put on two coats of shellac with a little stain (had to match an existing piece) and then two coats of Wipe on Poly satin (from Bunnings) really easy to apply both and looks great. You could go with one or the other too. Just shellac or just the polly. The first coat is the only one you have to be carefull of, get it nice and even, use a cloth pad and feather out any edges so you don't get any finish lines. Light sand after the first coat and on you go with more coats until you are happy with the finish. Using a cloth pad you don't get any runs, you get a nice even finish. Check out the last photo on my web site (under furniture) if you have any questions feel free to PM me or email.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  3. #3
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    Nov 2011
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    Wingham
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Claw Hama View Post
    Hi Simon
    I wouldn't advise spraying. I have just finished an Aust Red Cedar desk and booksheves for a client. I put on two coats of shellac with a little stain (had to match an existing piece) and then two coats of Wipe on Poly satin (from Bunnings) really easy to apply both and looks great. You could go with one or the other too. Just shellac or just the polly. The first coat is the only one you have to be carefull of, get it nice and even, use a cloth pad and feather out any edges so you don't get any finish lines. Light sand after the first coat and on you go with more coats until you are happy with the finish. Using a cloth pad you don't get any runs, you get a nice even finish. Check out the last photo on my web site (under furniture) if you have any questions feel free to PM me or email.
    I would really like to french polish. but im just worried about getting into tight corners etc.
    does the wipe on poly wear reasonably well.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Yes bit of a hard item to start FP on, if you use the shellack give light sands between coats then your finish should be pretty good anyway. This is a good practice run for FP on an easier project without the tricky corners etc. It's almost the same process. If you take your time and be carefull you will still end up with beautifull finish. Yes wipe on poly wears as well as normal poly/estapol except you have to put more coats on because its not as thick.

    (The rest of you finishers out there can chime in anytime too)
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
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    1,332

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Claw Hama View Post
    ...wipe on poly wears as well as normal poly/estapol except you have to put more coats on because its not as thick.
    ... and it doesn't finish up looking like it's been wrapped in glad wrap.
    I'd go with Claw's recommendation - best for a good-looking, hard-wearing finish.
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  6. #6
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    Nov 2011
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    Wingham
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    Default

    Ok, great thanks for the advice. Ill post some pictures in the coming weeks of my progress.

  7. #7
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    Jun 2007
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    Default

    Thanks Claw for this have a lidded box may require this sort of finish

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    My pleasure Gentlemen, if you want to find the easiest way (and still get a good result) ask the laziest person. That'd be me, I don't want to do anymore work than I have too but still want the goods
    Good luck with it Simon, looks like a nice roject.
    U 2 Ray
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3

    Default Handrail

    Claw
    Many thanks for the information.
    Would the process you recommend be any good for an oak stair hand rail?
    Thanks
    Rob

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Yes I would think so. The Shellac would give the Oak a nice glow and depth. Choice is your to wether you put wipe on poly over it or just use the shellac. Make sure you post us some pics when you're done.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    A lot of you guys would get some good use from our Benevilant Benifactors excellent book on finishing. A Polishers Handbook by Neil Ellis A Polishers Handbook this would be money well spent for many a woodworker. Neil has many DIY recipies and lots of great easy finishes and gives you all the tricks of the trade.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    t
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    Default

    Spraying on pre-cat lacquers gives an excellent finish to red cedar and is easy as pie to do.
    You can choose the level of gloss and number of coats as appropriate for desired effect, a good gloss finish actually gives a 3D effect to red cedar, where as a light matt finish gives the timber a "natural" look.
    .

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