Having had the same challenge previously, without finding a satisfactory solution, I have followed this thread with interest.
Then today I stumbled on this as a possible solution to your problem.
Ensuring a level finish
This chap has some really good ideas.
Cheers, Fred
I gave the Preval a test on the weekend spraying General Finishes water-based poly on very light Hard Maple (from the USA). The reason for the water-based poly was to keep the Maple as white as possible. The reason for General Finishes (and having to import it!) was because it was the only finish that was reviewed highly.
Reviews, however, were not good when the finish was brushed, regardless of the type of brush. Consequently I decided to spray, and the Preval (a refillable spray can) was really the cheapest way I could test this out.
No photos - it is too hard to see differences. I compared wiping an oil (like a danish oil) against the sprayed GF. The oil darkened the wood and it went from white to tan. The water-based GF stayed very light, just a touch darker than the original white.
The sprayed GF settled on the wood and left a motley finish - sort of dimply. However, 30 minutes later it had become flat and look quite matte. There were (obviously) no brush marks. The grain was raised slightly. This was dealt with by a quick rub of a grey 3M pad (very fine), and a second coat applied after an hour.
I plan to use three, possibly four coats on the kitchen doors. The test ended at 2 coats. I can see the potential. The result is flat and the surface is hard. Even at this stage I could not lift the surface with a fingernail.
Now I might look into better spray equipment for the future. Any recommendations for an inexpensive but reliable set up?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Wagner do some good gear in turbine spray guns. Good for general purpose stuff, stains, lacquers, acrylic paint. If you want to use Nitro and the like you will need to spend money on a good gun like an Iwata. Earls do an airless, at least I think it is airless, some like them, I've no experience with them though. Carbatech used to sell them, may still do.
Cheers
Bevan
Hi DerekQuote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen
a review of posts on the forum suggests that "inexpensive" and "reliable" generally do not go together when in comes to spraying a finish.
General finishes has some advice on their site https://generalfinishes.com/professi...based-finishes
My copy of Jeff Jewitt's Wood Finishes book is getting a little old, but in it he recommends a three-stage turbine for a HVLP system, and cautions that a inexpensive systems "are incapable of delivering a fine, smooth finish with clear varnishes and lacquers, particularly water-based ones."
Derek, your choices are an airless turbine type unit, or a conversion gun.
An airless system is like Graco or Earlex (sorry, spelling ?). I think that, the truth is, without spending a lot of money, they are awful. OK for general painting and mediocre clear finishes as might be required perhaps in trim carpentry, but not for a very fine finish as you might put on high-end furniture.
Don't go near a Wagner - I have 5 (bought 2, given 3), they are all awful.
High end airless units might be excellent, but as no vendor will demo them before purchase then I guess I'll never know.
A conversion gun is basically an hvlp gun attached to an air compressor. That's the way all professional spray outfits and auto refinishers work, which tells you something.
I assume you already have an air compressor. If its 3hp or over then you will be OK for that job. Hiring is an option.
Then you need a gun. I regard the Star guns as the sensible bottom end. Maybe $300 for a good one. There is nothing a Devilbliss or Iwata gun will do that my Stars wont (and yes, I have both). There may be some differences in longevity and perhaps working speed which don't mean anything to me.
Then you need a water filter. A filter is essential but before buying an expensive one try one of those $20 jobs you get in Bunnings. It may be sufficient, it is for me and always has been.
And a regulator, preferred but not essential. One may come with the gun.
So all up that's $350.
Then the next important thing is practice.
I did a post a while back on clear finishing a kitchen with an underpowered compressor and a cheap hvlp gun from Supercheap auto : https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/com...ainting-186151 . Proves its possible, even if not ideal.