When does fluoro ballast need replacing?

This is one for the sparkys out there:

When the fluoros start to flicker, it is usually a sign that the fluoro bulb itself needs to be changed. When I change the buld it usually has the telltale grey "burning" marks on the inside of the bulb.

The question is, when (if ever) does the starter need to be changed?

Does an old starter shorten the life of a new bulb?

What symptoms does a light with an old starter exhibit? e.g. if a new bulb flickers 5-10 times on ignition, does this mean a new starter is required?

(I did a search and couldn't find any answers.)

You problem is the starter not the ballast
Blackening at the end of the tube and flickering a lot on startup is classic symptoms.

If the ballast goes the light will simply not work in more time than not it may take out a fuse.

This may help http://home.howstuffworks.com/fluorescent-lamp.htm

Incidentally new flouos have electronic ballasts and require no starter
and illuminate almost instantly

OK, thanks, on reading your link I definitely meant starter, not ballast (I thought they were the same thing). I have edited the first post.

I am asking because we've had our outdoor bug zapper for a few years now. The UV bulbs usually last a year, so we have replaced them several times. But I've never replaced the starter, and was wondering how I would know if I needed to?

at work when we replace fluro tubes we replace the starter at the same time.

also, in a room if you replace all the tubes at once, when several start to flicker you know the rest are about to go too.

it could get costly for a homeowner, but... "it's how the pros do it"

:whs: New tube, new starter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John G

OK, thanks, on reading your link I definitely meant starter, not ballast (I thought they were the same thing). I have edited the first post.

I am asking because we've had our outdoor bug zapper for a few years now. The UV bulbs usually last a year, so we have replaced them several times. But I've never replaced the starter, and was wondering how I would know if I needed to?

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For a bug zapper, there should be an inverter unit providing high voltage very low current for the ZAP, and the tube would normally be driven from the inverter as well. All the units that I have come accross have been, but they have been compact domestic units, not the commercial ones seen in food prep areas. Multi tube commercials could be starter/ballast or inverter driven.

For the compacts, you won't have a starter or ballast, so you don't need to replace them. If the inverter dies, nothing works and its probably cheaper to replace the whole unit rather than repair.