Water based, non-yellowing finish

[Dengue]

Hello, I have been making a box of 10mm thick red cedar with 0.6mm thick ash burl veneer on the lid.

Normally I use an oil finish like Kunos #244, which has a high component of linseed oil, leading to yellowing in the medium - long term. And it is not recommended by the manufacturer for finishing on thin veneers, as it cannot soak in to any depth.

I was reading here about how the modern water based finished have minimal, if any, yellowing and will dry quickly with a few hours between coats, and cure withing 7 days.

I then looked around at all the proprietary brands, and found this one which seems to fit the bill. But then, if it looks too good to be true, if probably is.

Has anyone had any experience with the Intergrain Ultraclear Satin finish?

Is it a water based polyurethane finish by another name? What level of sanding (grit) do you recommend before applying, and between coats?

Whatever, I would like to know if it forms a film, and if it is worthwhile being waxed and buffed after 7 days using Ubeaut Traditional Wax to give it that nice soft silky feel

Hoping someone out there can help

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

[FenceFurniture]

G'day Joe

An indirect answer, at best....

I have used water based PU Satin from Minwax in several different applications with much success (no longer available since Woolworths went out of the hardware business).

First time I used it was as a floor sealer on the Yellow Tongue shed floor, where it proved to be monumentally tough! Then on a small table that needed a tough finish, and various other things. The table has nil evidence of yellowing three years later. However, the shed floor does have evidence of yellowing....and bluing.....and greying.....depending on the paint being used for the project of the time

I have never waxed over it, but don't see why not.

[Chris Parks]

Derek Cohen went through this when he did his kitchen, a search of his posts should find it.

[elanjacobs]

For small items I really like Mirotone Spraylac, it doesn't fill the grain like many other spraycan finishes do and you get a really beautiful silky finish with 3-4 coats, rubbing with 240 grit between them. It also dries really quickly, maybe an hour or 2.

[lee.clapp]

For a quick finish, I do 2-3 coats of clear shellac sanded between with 320 grit. The buff with Gilly Stevenson's carnuba wax. Leave a really soft silky finish and can be completed on the same day. Doesn't seem to alter the colour much. Doesn't appear to yellow much either.


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[Dengue]

For a quick finish, I do 2-3 coats of clear shellac sanded between with 320 grit. The buff with Gilly Stevenson's carnuba wax. Leave a really soft silky finish and can be completed on the same day. Doesn't seem to alter the colour much. Doesn't appear to yellow much either.

Thanks lee.clapp. My trouble is putting shellac on box sides, and especially the insides. I have never got a satisfactory result, so tend to steer clear of shellac except for use as a sealer coat

[lee.clapp]

Thanks lee.clapp. My trouble is putting shellac on box sides, and especially the insides. I have never got a satisfactory result, so tend to steer clear of shellac except for use as a sealer coat

I shellac the insides before assembly like I described. The shellac just acts as the sealer in this instance and the carnuba wax is the finished product. The easiest method I have come up with for finishing.
Seriously try it on some scrap, it's my go to for speed finishing.

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