EEE Ultra Shine

[Gazza]

Hi,

I am considering using EEE-Ultra Shine on top of a lacquered finish.

Just brought and opened the jar yesterday.

The first thing that hit me was the smell, reminded me of kerosene!!!

Can anyone that has used this product confirm that it does indeed smell this way and (i hope) the smell goes away after you have polished it off the timber.

[Cliff Rogers]

Mine doesn't smell like kerosene, maybe a bit like turps but not kero.

The smell does go away.

[Gumby]

It'll be fine. I use it a lot and no smell. Make sure you give it a really godd buff. A swansdown mop is the best.

[Gazza]

It'll be fine. I use it a lot and no smell. Make sure you give it a really godd buff. A swansdown mop is the best.

To apply I assume I rub it on with a cloth and then rub it off with a cloth.

I also brought a swansdown mop.

Should I rub it off withh a cloth before buffing with the mop or just apply the mop straight after rubbing it in?

thanks.

[Gumby]

To apply I assume I rub it on with a cloth and then rub it off with a cloth.

I also brought a swansdown mop.

Should I rub it off withh a cloth before buffing with the mop or just apply the mop straight after rubbing it in?

thanks.

I only have the one mop and I'm sorry now I don't have 2. (Wait until the show Neil, I'll get another). I used it for buffing a wax finish and it gets impregnated with wax on the end. No probs really but I think i should have given it a buff with a soft cloth first, just to remove the excess from the surface. It means that if i use the mop to buff EEE, then i seem to get some wax on that surface as well (hence the need for 2 mops, one for EEE, one for wax). Neil suggested runing it on some sand paper to help clean off the ends.

I saw Neil do a demo with a mop a while ago and I'm pretty sure he used the mop straight away with no pre buffing. If you just keep that mop for the EEE then it should be fine. Don't forget to run it on something else if it's new, the fluff gets everywhere.

Oh and make sure you buff with the grain. That's the whole point of the mop.

[Wood Borer]

Gazza,

I'm not sure if this is the best way but I get good results so I use this method with EEE.

Finish the wood with a scraper (furniture) or fine sandpaper 400 or higher.

I normally use White or Hard Shellac over the timber with a few coats. If there are any imperfections in the shellac finish, fix these with fine sandpaper.

Wipe the EEE on with a rag and rub in in very well. Let it harden a bit, wipe off excess with another rag. Then hit it with the mop.

If you don't rub the excess off then the excess will end up on the mop. The excess can be taken off the mop using a hacksaw which works well but can cause a bit of a snowstorm.

[ubeaut]

I prefer to apply the EEE and buff it with the mop straight away, this saves you lots of albow greas and will give a quicker mor even finish. You are after all using a cutting compound. Finish off with a good rub over the entire surface with a clean soft rag, this will remove any of the wax that is left on the surface.

I also find no problem with using the same buff for polishing up Traditional Wax and finishing off with a clean soft rag.

Just don't do what my son did last week when he used my big EEE impregnated mop to polish up a heap of metal. Have been told the metal looks great but the buff is black as the ace of spades. I'm hoping I can clean it enough to use on white wood demo's this weekend........ got my doubts.

Cheers - Neil

PS My way is not nesecarily the right or the only way...... Just the way I do it.

[Gazza]

I prefer to apply the EEE and buff it with the mop straight away, this saves you lots of albow greas and will give a quicker mor even finish. You are after all using a cutting compound. Finish off with a good rub over the entire surface with a clean soft rag, this will remove any of the wax that is left on the surface.Cheers - Neil

I tried it last night with disastrous results !!!

I used a soft rag, picked up some EEE on the rag and rubbed it onto the surface of the timber (finshed in lacquer 24 hrs ago), it got hard to rub fairly quickly but i persisted and after polishing off with the mop I noticed in several areas I had RUBBED THE LACQUER FINISH OFF.

I guess I should not have kept rubbing when it got hard and not pressed so hard. The EEE seemed to dry very quickly and go sticky on the surface, is this normal ??? It took ages with the mop to remove the wax from the surface of the wood.

I think I am doing something very wrong!

[Wood Borer]

PS My way is not nesecarily the right or the only way...... Just the way I do it.

Ubeaut has infinitely more experience than me and I will be changing my ways (EEE wax and mop ways - no others).

[Wood Borer]

I tried it last night with disastrous results !!!

I used a soft rag, picked up some EEE on the rag and rubbed it onto the surface of the timber (finshed in lacquer 24 hrs ago), it got hard to rub fairly quickly but i persisted and after polishing off with the mop I noticed in several areas I had RUBBED THE LACQUER FINISH OFF.

I guess I should not have kept rubbing when it got hard and not pressed so hard. The EEE seemed to dry very quickly and go sticky on the surface, is this normal ??? It took ages with the mop to remove the wax from the surface of the wood.

I think I am doing something very wrong!

Gazza,

This is my understanding of EEE wax and it's application.

EEE is so called because it has a fine abrasive in the wax called Tripoli powder. The object of the abrasive is to polish whatever you are applying it to. In your case it is the laquer.

Make sure your laquer is properly set, not just dry but dry and set. Depending on what laquer you are using will determine the setting time.

Apply the EEE and use the fine abrasive in it to polish the surface and only the surface of your laquer. It sounds like you have rubbed so hard you have demolished rather than polished the laquer!

After you have a satisfactory result here, I then apply traditional wax over the top.

Make sure your laquer is applied to a properly prepared surface. If it is a panel for example, you would have planed it flat and then perhaps scraped it or sanded it with different grades of sandpaper stating from medium going up to 400, 600 or higher if necessary. That will be the basis for your laquer.

If the earlier layers are not smooth or even then subsequent layers will not be good either.

I have applied EEE to many projects and I am wrapped with the results.

Like I said earlier this is my understanding of how it works but I am not a finishing expert so I might be off beam on some of the details. :eek:

Keep trying and let us know of your progress. Try on some scrap firstly.

[Gazza]

Apply the EEE and use the fine abrasive in it to polish the surface and only the surface of your laquer. It sounds like you have rubbed so hard you have demolished rather than polished the laquer!

After you have a satisfactory result here, I then apply traditional wax over the top.

YES, I certainly did demolish the lacquer, rubbed right through it to the wood. Had 3 coats of lacquer and left to dry 24hrs as in the data sheet, I think I just rubbed to hard.

I used a soft cloth and dabbed the cloth into the EEE, I then rubbed it onto the surface of the wood, within 20 seconds or so it got very hard to rub, the EEE seemed to have dried on the surface, should I then apply more EEE or should I stop rubbing when it gets hard to move the cloth.

I found the dried EEE very hard to remove with either another rag or the Swansdown mop. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I think it has something to do with either I am not applying enough EEE initially or I am rubbing it in to hard/to long.

Why do you then apply the traditional wax ?
Isn't the EEE a wax polish as well ?

Thanks

[Wood Borer]

Gazza,

I apply the Traditional wax for two reasons:

The Traditional wax has a finish that is more appealing to me - not as flash.

I think I read or was told or imagined etc that you should not leave the final coat as EEE. This reason is a bit shaky but that's what I do.

If you find the wax is drying too quickly, you can thin it out. I thought turps was the go but again I would double check before you took this advice.

Instead of putting your elbow and shoulder out of joint, I find if you lightly rub the surface with the rag you will find the surface starting to shine. You can then keep rubbing to remove any excess wax leaving a very pleasant surface.

[silentC]

EEE is not a finish. It is a cutting compound which you can use to improve other finishes.

Traditional Wax is a finish. To apply Traditional Wax, you let it dry for a few minutes before buffing. The wax stays behind on the surface. With the EEE you don't want to let it dry and the idea is to remove it all.

It sounds to me like the lacquer hadn't hardened enough - but then I'm no expert either.

[ubeaut]

Sounds like the lacquer was still a bit on the green side. I would wait at least 48 hrs and preferably up to 7 days or more before attacking any surface with a cutting compound. It often takes up to 3 weeks for some finishes to sink in and harden properly.

When using the EEE apply it quickly over the surface, then buff it with the mop straight away. If in future you have the same problem with the EEE going hard put a little turpentine on the rag and rub it over the surface. If you really have a problem it washes off really easily with turps.

Cheers - Neil