DIY Gas Cooktop Replacement - Viable ?

[SteveAndBelle]

Hi,

We have an old, grotty basic model Westinghouse 4-burner cooktop and I want to replace it with a new one in a similar model. The previous owners of the house cleaned it with hardcore abrasive cleaners so it's very difficult to keep clean plus the electric ignition doesn't work so we've got to light it with one of those silly gas lighter thingys.

I've found a suitable replacement cooktop (brand new, ex-display) for $199 which I think is a bargain (especially as we're planning to rip the kitchen out in a few years and replace everything from scratch) but I want to know what's stopping me from replacing this myself ?

I've dabbled in all other aspects of 'dangerous' home maintenance and have succeeded every time probably due to the fact that I triple-check every aspect of my work before I put it into action plus that fact that I'm paranoid of anything going wrong so I can't see why I couldn't do this myself too ... but for some reason I'm just not too sure.

I was planning on performing the 'soapy-water' test on the gas join multiple times plus run one of those cheapie gas detectors ($50 at Jaycar) over the entire job a few times before ignition, but is that really enough ?

I obviously don't want to send our house sky-rocketing but on the other hand I'm keen to give this a go myself to prove I can do it plus to save a cool $200-250 for a qualitfied gas fitter to do it for me and to give me a certificate to justify the expense.

Anyone have any advice ? Should I attempt it and if not why shouldn't I ??

[OBBob]

I wouldn't expect that much just to unscrew one connection and screw on a new one. If the pipe isn't in the same spot they will just use a flexible extension. You may need a power connection for the new unit though ... depending on how it ignites?

[SteveAndBelle]

Thanks ObBob.

The current unit uses 240V ignition so both the cooktop and separate gas oven are plugged in to a double GPO under the cooktop so that's all ready-to-go. The new cooktop uses a battery powered igniter (I'd say much the same as the one in my Weber BBQ) which is fine by me. I'd prefer a 240V igniter however I've never had a problem with the one in the Weber BBQ and as I'm getting the cooktop for $199 I don't really mind either way ... just as long as it ignites

OK, I might go myself some yellow sealing tape and see how I go. If I think the connection isn't 100% once I've done it I'll happily pay for a gas fitter to come out and finish it off for me but I reckon I'll be right.

Anyone else have any input ?

Steve.

[Ashore]

Just check that the new top has the correct burners for the type of gas you are using, ie town / bottle etc

Rgds

[SteveAndBelle]

Yep Ashore,

We're running 'Natural Gas' and the new cooktop is a 'Natural Gas' type so it's basically a direct replacement.

I think this is a go-er. Anyone else want to add anything ?

Thanks.

[lnt9000]

I rang a guy up to come and cap off a connection on a wall oven as I wanted to replace it with an electric model, well a few hours later a chap knocks on the door, Hmmm must be the apprentice ( very young ) anyhow unscrews the pipe and puts a cap on in about 5 minutes, $50 bucks thanks mate gives a receipt and off he goes, pretty simple to do but will your conscience let you, deep down your thinkin' if it's only $50 bucks why bother with the risk?, however later I checked the receipt and it had nothing on it to indicate who issued it, so in actual fact anyone could assume that I did it myself, If they are asking $250 then It's the principle.

[renomart]

Anyone get a plumber out to change the gas bottle on their BBQ? :eek:

[SteveAndBelle]

Thanks Renomart,

My thoughts exactly

Steve.

[Sturdee]

Anyone get a plumber out to change the gas bottle on their BBQ? :eek:

True, but the BBQ gas bottle is normally turned of at the bottle between use whereas you don't turn of the gas mains when the cooktop is not in use.

A bit like comparing apples with oranges I think. BTW I don't like red herrings I prefer mine plainly salted with onions.


Peter.

[Gas Man]

G'Day Steve,

I am not a gas fitter but work in the industry. The work that you want to carry out is really very simple - but legally you should not be carrying out this installation your self.

It could have terrible ramifications if you ever have to make a major household insurance claim - please be careful.

Locktite Gas Sealant is better than thread tape and test all connections by brushing a "strong" solution of soap and water. If bubbles present it is leaking.

Good Luck.

[SteveAndBelle]

Gas Man, thanks for your input.

I know I should be getting a 'pro' to do it but I can't justify the expense. If I do the job slowly & carefully and make 100% sure that the connection is 100% leakproof I can't understand why I'd have a problem and therefore need to make an insurance claim when the house is blown into splinters.

Silly thing is it's nice to know that a 'pro' has done the job and has written up a certificate however who's to say a 'pro' connected it in the first place ?!? When we bought the house we didn't get anything at all, no instruction manuals for the hot water system, no receipts or manuals for the 'Safety Switch' ... nothing. I definitely didn't get anything certifying that all the gas connections were done by a 'pro' so why should I spend the money to get one ? If something went wrong right now with our current cooktop (touchwood) I don't have a certificate to cover me so I can't see the benefit.

I will definitely be getting a gas fitter, electrician & plumber in when we eventually renovate the kitchen in a couple of years as we're going to have to modify everything to the extreme but I can't justify it for a straight 'n simple swapover.

I frequently connect & disconnect the gas fitting on my table-top heater (to get it through the umbrella hole in the middle of the table) using the yellow 'gas' sealer tape and although I keep a close eye on the condition of the brass fittings I've never had a problem there ... so again I can't see why the cooktop would be any different.

Luckily the fitter who previously installed the current cooktop also installed handy isolation valves for both the cooktop and the oven so I don't have to kill the gas for the whole house (although I might do anyway to be on the safe side) so I'll just bleed the pipe by closing the valve and burning the leftover gas in the pipe. I'll disconnect & reconnect and then do the soapy water test using a 'strong' solution. After that I'll check it with the Jaycar gas detector a few times and then I'll leave it for a while (an hour or two) and then retest it with the soapy water & gas detector just to be 100% sure.

I'll recheck it wit hthe gas detector each day after that for about a week and then reduce that to once a week for about a month. Surely by then I'll know it'll be fine from then on ... I mean what else can happen ?

Do you use the Locktite Sealer on the threads and does it set like glue or does it stay slighly gooey like windscreen sealant ?

Steve.

[b1ueshift]

It's your home and your safety - so if you want to do it yourself who's to say you shouldn't. All the gear you need to do the job is available from Bunnings so I expect a lot of people are doing this kind of thing themselves.

If the old stove top is not too old then it will have a flexible hose and it will be really easy to swap it over. The braided flexible hoses for gas appliances have straight threads (as opposed to taper threads) and seal at the compressible gasket at the base of the thread. I wouldn't use use any yellow tape on this kind of thread because it might interfere with the main seal at the bottom of the treaded connection. Tape is best for tapered threads.

I think the law is more to protect contractors than home owners, but I don't want to start a flame war over politics.

[SteveAndBelle]

Thanks B1ueshift,

The old cooktop has the gas inlet under the top right hand corner which (from what I've been seeing of all the new similar 'basic' cooktops) seems to be a kind of 'standard' layout.

It's currently connected with rigid copper pipes so there are no braided flexible pipes anywhere under the bench. Between the isolating valve and the cooktop is a small silver coloured regulator.

I'm hoping that if I get an identical cooktop or a cooktop with the gas inlet in the exact same position I should just be able to use everything that's already in place. If any pipe modifications are required I have no problem calling out a gasfitter to install it all properly ... but I'm hoping I wont have to do that.

'Roger' on the yellow thread tape, I'll keep that aside and go get myself a tube of 'gas' joint Locktite.

Thanks for the info !

[arms]

hi ,
do it right great ,
do it wrong BOOM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i think i would pay the man:eek:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Viable? Yes. Worth it? That's entirely your call, you've been told the risks, you obviously know the procedure for a straight swap and will probably take more care with it than a tradie for whom it's just more of the daily grind.

But if it turns out you need to go the braided hose route, it'd probably be cheaper to call a gasfitter. He'd change the rigid fittings and already has the correct flaring tools, etc. in his kit. They're too expensive to buy for a "one-off" operation.

So, dry-fit the cooktop and see which way to go. What's the holdup?