Staining a small antique tool chest

[BEM]

I was recently given an small tool chest which was made some time between World Wars as an apprentice project. I'm in the process of restoring it and want to approximate the stain as close as possible to the original. So far I've only tried various Feast Watson 50ml samples on white oak and am not happy with the colour results. I've tried mixing them too. I have no experience with stains at all.
I'd like to throw it to the brains trust and ask what you would use. I thought about not staining the wood but after sanding one drawer front, I'm not happy with the wood quality. It's better stained.

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[auscab]

Nice engineers chest. Does it have a makers label ?

I would use a mix of two water stains . Van dyck crystals / Black acrylic paint. The strength is adjustable.
you have to treat the wood for water staining first by wetting then sanding raised grain .
A touch of Bismark brown in the shellac after sealing it first with shellac is also a good thing. Before continuing on with a full shellac finish.

Some of the darker ones on these White Oak colour samples I just made up for a client are using that stain mix.

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Rubbing some on a White Oak side table.
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[EagerBeaver71]

Rubbing some on a White Oak side table.
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Rob, thats a gorgeous colour you mixed up there for the side tables!. Is that a water stain or a straight mix with shellac?.

[auscab]

Left picture is water stain being rubbed on Sam . I added a slight Bismarck brown colour coat while polishing after the water stain was sealed in to adjust it a touch .

[auscab]

I was recently given an small tool chest which was made some time between World Wars as an apprentice project.

I just re read your post. Its an apprentice project! I missed that .

So no makers label? Who made it ? looks like an Oak US or UK Engineers chest.

If you could be bothered.
Can you show a pic of drawer construction . Carcase internal.
And a close up of handles please. Are they stamped with letters?
Is the carcase hand dovetailed?

Ive been saving pictures of the old US and UK ones . Been interested in making myself one.
Just dreaming probably as Ive got to many other things to do first.

Rob.

[BEM]

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your detailed replies. I don't think it has any shellac though I'm not certain as I've never used it. I thought it was just stained with no other finish. Can you tell by looking at it?

It was made by the father of my grandmother's neighbour (in England). He was English. I like tool chests too. They asked me if I wanted it as they are having a clear out and I jumped on it! No dovetails but it's quite small. Here are some photos. It looks like there is a makers label on top so it's a bit confusing.

Lyndon

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[BEM]

I've just had a look online for CQR Toolchest's (as that's what is on the label and handles). Now I'm more confused. Maybe I got the apprentice project bit wrong as she showed my a a few things her father made. Do you know anything about CQR toolchests?

[auscab]

I've just had a look online for CQR Toolchest's (as that's what is on the label and handles). Now I'm more confused.

Hi Lyndon . Did you find any online ?

I found one . So they were produced somewhere.
CQR_chest.jpg tool chest.jpg

Its mentioned here.

Mystery Tools


I thought these joints on the carcase looked like hand dovetails.

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I would have first tried reviving that finish first rather than sanding . If you do sand it it’s a pity to sand off that label . You could work around it and save it. It will come up nice either way. Yes its polished over a stain but what will be on it is more of a spirit Varnish. It often cracks up. Its a bit harder to restore . Stripping it off is sometimes the best way. Some spirit varnish mixes had some shellac in them from what I know . There were all types of mixes and Ive never seen or heard of a recipe for it. If its stripped, Re polishing with Shellac is a good quality way of re doing it . If you can do that.

Thanks for the pictures . Ive got to rush off to work . Ill come back to this tonight.

Rob

I love the handles . They are a good example of how a brass handle could be cut from plate brass if you were wanting to make your own .

Also . Doesn't the pictures I added of the CQR box look nice. The colour and finish. Wonder if that was stripped and re done? Most are dark and aged.The label if kept from original doesn't show previous colours ?

[BEM]

Yes you're right Rob. The carcase is dovetailed. I was thinking more of the drawers when I said not. Sorry.
I didn't realise that reviving a finish was possible. The only finish I've ever used (apart from paint) is hard wax oil. I'm woefully inexperienced in the wood finish dept. I wish I'd asked the question before I sanded the door. I was planning to cover the label before sanding to try to restore/keep it.


Your photo is lovely. I'd have been even happier if I'd got one like that. I love the handles too. You could probably make larger ones too. I found another couple of CQR links, but there's not much around.

CQR Toolchest on Model Engineer (This shows the label in black and red)

Vintage 6 drawer oak engineers tool chest CQR

[auscab]

Reviving such a finish like that can be tricky even for the experienced restorers Lyndon. The normal reviving that is possible on much older things with original quality shellac only finishes doesn't work as well on these later cheap industrial finishes. So You will be better off stripping and sanding to what ever you like. I would have given it a go if it was mine. it doesn't always work. A good way is to isolate the spirit varnish with a layer of oil based sealer then give it some shellac after that. You also have to touch out and match missing finish and scratches between layers. That takes a bit to learn if you have never done it. Then you need all the different types on colours and sealers in front of you as well.

If you cover the transfer and take care saving the label will work.

If your stripping and sanding then you could re polish to the colour of the other one above. I think it looks nicer than the dark colour. The Oak will come up pretty light with the original finish gone and a bit of sanding.

Rob

[BEM]

I've finished with the restoration. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The only thing I have left is to find a new key for the old lock, if that is possible. I've had a look around and found some keys but I don't know which is the right one. I saw that Graeme Brown has some keys on his price list. There is also a couple of other websites I found that carry some keys.

Does anyone here know which particular key is the right one? My lock has stamped on it "22232". Here are some photos.

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[auscab]

The box looks good .

You need something like the 38mm ones on the left. The 50mm ones on right are probably to large .
You will have to cut them to work the lock. Ring GB Antiques and ask about 38mm box lock keys. The ones in the catalog are either discontinued or not right. If the larger 50mm ones I have there suit I can send one of the bottom ones for you to cut, they are spares . The two smaller ones on left are not spares though .

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Rob

[BEM]

Cheers Rob. I thought you might answer my question. I'll give GB Antiques a call. Thank you for your generous offer. I'll try GB first.

Lyndon

[Huon pine fan]

Seeing your tool chest reminded me that I have something along the same lines. I got it some years back from an elderly neighbour who was moving out who from memory told me that it was from his FIL. Judging from the tools inside the owner was a fitter and turner, maybe an engineer. As can be seen in the photos it has suffered somewhat over the years, 1 drawer missing, 1 drawer front missing, original drawer pulls missing and the front cover broken off. There are no dovetails just steel band.
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[BEM]

Hi Huon. Looks like its lucky it has the steel bands to keep it together. It's interesting to see the differences between styles. I'd guess that yours is a home made version. I don't know what possessed people to stain wood brown. I have an American Maple (I think) table that was all brown. The top is different wood than the base. I sanded it back and hard waxed oiled it. The top is magnificently figured. You'd never have known it. All for the cause of uniformity.

Lyndon