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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Melbourne
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    65
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    Default Chair repair: removing silastic?

    I have been asked to fix a chair for a friend. Once disassembled I noticed that the timber is very light and the mortise and tenon joins have been put together with silastic! The trouble is that to get a good join with an epoxy I need clean surfaces and the silastic has gone everywhere.

    I've got the tenons cleaned up but the mortises are more of a challenge. Any ideas on the best way to go about it? If I use a chisel I just get smooth silastic sides to the mortise. I am thinking of a dowel in a drill with a bit of sandpaper wrapped around the end (in a split).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Muswellbrook NSW
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Petrol works well for removing silicone, but the chair may smell a bit dodgy for many years, acetone should do the same without the lingering smell and flamability!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    723

    Default


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Default

    Thanks guys, I'll give acetone a go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    772

    Default

    Acetone won't touch it I'm afraid. You can buy silicone remover which is gellified sulphuric acid, but I can't say how that would affect glue up. How about mark cuts for new mortise sides, chisel and remove and glue appropriate thickness veneers slips to the tenon?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    BELL POST HILL, 3215
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    87
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    Default Silicone Remover.

    Hi Groggy,
    I bought some " Mostenbockers Lift Offe " Silicone Latex Caulk & Foam Sealant Remover. 125ml.
    How ever I haven't got to use it yet, so I don't know how good it is. Was bought to do the Shower Base, but I was advised, that this is the Stuff. Bunny's $14 +.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,174

    Default

    Acetic acid also works. Ordinary table vinegar (4-8% Acetic) is not usually strong enough and high strength spirit vinegar at about 15% - 20% is required.
    One advantage of acetic over petrol is that it washes off reasonably well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Melbourne
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    65
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    Default

    Yuck. From what I am reading I may as well just bevel the sides of the mortises and use fox tenons.

    Fancy using silastic

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Perth
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    0

    Default

    Hi Groggy,

    I think you are on the right track. Had a similar problem with an old window frame. Tried sanding the stuff off, whicj I thought was OK, but when I ran my hand over the timber it still felt silicon slippery. The stuff had got into the weathered cracks, arrhhhh!!!.

    Had to cut a bigger rebate to expose new uncontaminated wood.

    Silastic great for gutters, but a pain for timber.

    Let us know how you get on witht eh mechanical type fix.

    Cheers
    Pops

  10. #10
    rogerjenkins Guest

    Default

    Turpentine also works. Lay chair sections on their sides with the silastic filled holes facing upwards, and fill with turps, and allow the silastic to soften. takes a while, but does S-L-O-W-L-Y disolve the problem. Another option is Paint Remover, or even Universal Lacquer Thinner

    Been there,- done that. Had that headache Done a bit of Furniture Restoration work over the years.
    It never ceases to amaze me what some people will use to, " Glue," a loose dowel, or rung back into the chair with. Liquid Nails, or Construction Adhesive is another favourite product many people use to re-glue chairs, tables, cupboards, etc, or you get the occasional person who uses a, " six inch nail," bashed right through the joint to try to hold things together, or occasionally the old farmer who believes that a piece of fencing wire and a pair of pliers will fix anything ( Well almost anything )

    Roger

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
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    65
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    Default

    Oh, these chairs have not been previously repaired, that is how they were MADE!

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