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Results 1 to 9 of 9
Thread: Oregon Coffee Table
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14th September 2014, 01:43 PM #1
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Oregon Coffee Table
Hi All,
First time poster so please be patient with me.
A couple of weeks ago i was given an old coffee table which i believe t be oregon.
I really like it and want to restore it. I have been sanding it to remove the old varnish. I have a few questions if i could.
Can anyone tell me what sort of varnish is on it.
How do i remove the varnish in the intricate bits, can i use some sort of stripper, if yes what kind. I have been using my trusty little Ozito triangle shape sander and going through heaps of sanding sheets. I will not be able to get to some of the intricate bits with this.
What is the best way to finish this, stain or some sort of clear.
Since these photos i have remove the top and this has made things a bit easier.
Really sorry for these basic questions, i have very little experience with wood work though do enjoy it (apart from the mess it creates and the freakin sanding) and really like this table and want to do the best jobe i can.
Thanks an advance Rudy
Now i have to figure out how to read any responses
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14th September 2014, 04:18 PM #2
Its not oregon, my opinion is either red deal or a relative of baltic pine. Cannot help with you other problems . John.
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14th September 2014, 04:25 PM #3
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Thanks Nine Fingers,
I wouldn't know, just what i was told. I'm more of a mechanical dude.
Anyone have any more ideas of what it could be, now i'm curious.
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14th September 2014, 07:50 PM #4
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Seems to be rather clear for Baltic, but I'd say a pine of some sort.
Handy tips for lacquer removal here: http://www.bunnings.com.au/diy-advic...nt-and-varnish
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14th September 2014, 08:42 PM #5
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Thanks Elan, the link is very helpful.
Would really love to know what sort of wood this is and how to treat it.
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15th September 2014, 12:32 AM #6
Personally, I'd be tempted to say it's Pinus Radiata...
Since pine is a fairly soft wood, I'd suggest either an oil and wax finish (if you want it to build up a distressed look over time) or a floor-grade polyurethane if you want something that'll at least pretend to harden the surface a bit.
And I'd use paint stripper - the methylene chloride stuff, not any of the 'environmentally safe' alternatives, as in this case 'environmentally safe' means 'doesn't really do the job all that well'. Keep the stuff off your skin, as it feels like a nasty mix of boiling metal and bhut jolokea chillies.
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19th September 2014, 09:03 PM #7
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Hi guys and thanks for the advise.
I' going to bunnings tomorrow to get some paint stripper. The table is turned the wrong way so hard to see but how can i get all the stain out of the corner edges of the bottom rails. There is no room for sand paper and very difficult to get steel wool in there. Can the stripper be hosed off in these difficult places after i try to get a tooth brush in there. I'm also assuming that i cannot get it all the laquere or what ever it is off.
If i can get over this hurdle i am on my way and will be happy. Just do not know how to get all the laquer out of these ntricate hard to get places.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Regards
Rudy
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20th September 2014, 12:22 PM #8
You can get various shapes of paint scrapers to get at corers. The paint stripper will make the varnish soft enough to scrape off. Paint section of hardware places. As for sanding the hard to get corners make a triangle section wood block and wrap sandpaper around it. Use round dowel with sandparer wrap for the coves in the legs. If you have one of those multitool sanders they are really good also ar getting close in to corners.
Regards
John
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28th September 2014, 10:47 AM #9
if it is commercially produced pine furniture there is a prettty god chance thet the "varnish" is in fact nitro-celulose laquer.
it would be very much worth while getting hold of some GP laquer thinner and seeing if the stuff "just wipes off"
Most of the drying finishes ( as oposed to reactive finishes) will redsolve in solvent.
some solvent resistant gloves, a bowl of thinners and a square of toweling and you may well have it all off with little difficulty....all you will need then is a "light sand".
always worth testing for solvent susceptable finishes before you start with the sanding or nasty strippers.
Don't forget to work in a well ventilated area.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.