Fixing plasterboard to concrete studs

[Tiger]

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">I'm trying to attach plasterboard to wooden studs but they are as hard as concrete. Tried nails but they just keep bending and when you force them too hard they ruin the plasterboard. Am now using drywall screws, still hard but can be done if I drill a pilot hole. The house is old, the word is very hard, is there an easier/quicker way to attach plasterboard in this situation?
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[addo]

Possibly! You're glueing as well, aren't you? Once that goes off, it will provide a good "hold".

You might try gunning pine battens to the side of every stud. Depends of course, whether this screws up your spacing horribly.

Regards, Adam.

[Tiger]

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">G'day Adam, am gluing as well. Got a couple of books out on drywall, it seems in Amercia they don't use glue much, they rely on screws mainly. Fair to say that our wood is a lot harder? I can't imagine doing a whole house with metal fasteners only.

The studs are just close enough to make pine batten addition a little difficult. Really need a right angle drill to get in there as neither of my drills fit well between the studs.
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[rod@plasterbrok]

Hmm very hard wood can be a pain. Are you using smooth shank nails or ring shank?

The ring shank nails bend easier than smooth shank. Lot of effort to put in pine battens. Pre drilling would be a pain as well.

Can't say I have ever found timber I could not nail to though.

If all else fails you could glue right up to the join and the edges, then use a plaster block to nail through to pin the board back to the stud until the glue sets.

The glue will hold it ok once set, although I would not recommned glueing only except in these circumstances. By nailing through the block you will not have to nail it all the way and if it bends its no big deal.

Cheers Rod

[Tiger]

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">Thanks, Rod. I enjoy reading your posts as they are informative as well as helpful. The house I'm working on has some very hard timber. It is possible though that because of the angle I'm coming in on, I'm not getting enough strength behind the hammer blows. Normally I don't have any problem hammering nails into wood, but in this house, skew nailing is also impossible and hence the idea of pre-drilling. I've noticed that plasterers use a special type of hammer, would that be helpful with harder wood?
</TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[echnidna]

drill a pilot hole 1 size smaller than the nails and knock nails in the holes

[pawnhead]

Just use 20 or 25mm clouts. They'll only need to go into the timber a bit more than 15mm. I'd say that the studs would have to be actually made of concrete to bend clouts that short, and there's no problem with them letting go if the timber's as hard as you say it is.

[rod@plasterbrok]

Tiger you can get 2 types of plasterers hammers both have a head that is designed to depress the nail without breaking the paper. You can get them in either a claw hammer or axe head.

While originally the axe head was used for cutting lathes now it is very usefull for levering a sheet or trimming a noggin that sticks out etc.

Unfortunately neither will allow you to knock in a nail any easier.

Cheers

Rod

[Slobba]

what is it Petrified wood ?

[Tiger]

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off"></TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off"></TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

what is it Petrified wood ?

No, it's harder than that.

[TCX]

Reviving a slightly old thread - since I have just discovered I have exactly the same problem!

If I absolutely can't get the nails in to the wall, is adhesive-only going to be sufficient? I have just put up the first board (and then realised afterwards that the nails won't go in) so just put a LOT more adhesive behind it, and pinned in a heap of blocks to hold it in place till the glue goes off. Will this board stay on the wall once I remove the blocks, or should I be looking at hiring a nail gun or something?

Am not going to fit any more boards until I find out whether just adhesive is going to be sufficient - what a pain!! Am starting to realise this renovation lark is NEVER easy - WHY didn't I buy a shiny new house

[rod@plasterbrok]

The boards will stay in place.

[TCX]

Well what do you know - I took the blocks out and the board stayed up! Guess I'll be gluing all round then - anyone want to buy a kilo of plasterboard nails (joke!)