Leaking Tank

[bob w]

Hi all, This may be in the wrong section of this forum but I will ask anyway,
We live in a rural area and have a 100,000 litre concrete water tank which, for the past several years has hardly had any water in it, except for what we purchased. Now that it is full at last, I have noticed seepage from some areas where the wall meets the base. This is not bad leakage but is clearly visible. I know it is not going to repair itself so my question is, does anyone know of a system that can be used from outside the tank that will seal the leak and, as this is used for drinking, not contaminate the water? I know I have seen something like this in times past but I didn't need it then, and now that I do, I can't find anything despite searching this forum and the net.
Cheers
Bob W

[Outbackrr]

This stuff might be what you're looking for?

http://www.bondall.com/CustomContent...e.aspx?ID=5364

[journeyman Mick]

Silasec is good stuff, used it myself, but would require draining the tank to apply. I would recomend Xypex instead as it's safe to use in potable water and wouldn't require draining the tank first.

Mick

[SilentButDeadly]

I've been using http://www.crystalfix.com.au/ on our leaky old tank. Appears to be a similar product to the Xypex Patch and Plug. Works OK too.......but you have to be generous and have paitence.

In the long term.....I'm either going to replace mine with a bigger steel one (Rhino or Pioneer) or get a plastic liner for it

[Bob38S]

Silasec is good stuff, used it myself, but would require draining the tank to apply. I would recomend Xypex instead as it's safe to use in potable water and wouldn't require draining the tank first.

Mick

G'day Mick, Just a little puzzled re the requirement to drain the tank when using Silasec.

According to the instructions I got years ago, the tank could be fixed externally and not be drained in fact it stated that it was better if water was present even flowing. I had a base crack as well as a reo crack which was weeping seriously about 400mm up from the base. My instructions said to chip out the cracks each way until you had solid material, the surface had to be clean as well as wet, mix up Silasec with raw cement to putty consistency and when mixed [quite warm in the hand] jam it into the crack[s]. This had to be done a couple of times and when the flow had been eliminated it was painted with a cement Silasec mix at heavy paint consistency.

I was dubious as to the claimed results but the result has been satisfactory for some 14 years now and unless the formula has changed it should still work.

Not familiar with the other products you mentioned.

Regards,
Bob

[journeyman Mick]

Bob,
I've mainly used silasec as a waterproof "paint" mixed with water and cement. I was aware that it could be mixed to form a putty but was under the impression that it needed to be fitted to the (dryish) inside of the tank so the water pressure would push it further into any cracks. I wasn't aware that it could be fitted to the outside as you have described. Sounds like it might be the quickest and easiest fix (and probably cheapest as well)

Mick

[bob w]

Thanks all for your input. I am sure I will have success using one of the products you have mentioned here. I will be looking into the ease of use but more importantly their availability in this area and it looks like I have a project for next weekend or sooner if I can get hold of something before then.
Sorry for not replying but I have been away.
Cheers
Bob W

[Bob38S]

G'day Mick,

I was dubious at first as well but it certainly worked. It seemed to rely on the "wetness" of the area to set the putty off. From memory, the first to last application was,- flow like without spurting which then went to trickle which then went to weep and then stop.

I was actually put on to the stuff by a mate who quoted its use in the Wooloomooloo [or however it is spelt] tunnel in Sydney.

Regards,
Bob